My sound system project: fiberglass galore!
06-07-2008, 04:07 PM
#52
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there stuff looks pretty good. im gonna keep them in mind for the next time i buy some audio stuff.
crutchfield.com is a good place to start to get an idea of whats out there and about how much you will pay. i was just looking at the pioneer subs, is yours the TS-SW251? if it is that is a 200 RMS watt sub(RMS is more important than peak power); the GM-7300M would probably be a good match, or the GM-D7400M if you want a class-D amp. both of those are Pioneer, the first is class AB and second is class D.
crutchfield.com is a good place to start to get an idea of whats out there and about how much you will pay. i was just looking at the pioneer subs, is yours the TS-SW251? if it is that is a 200 RMS watt sub(RMS is more important than peak power); the GM-7300M would probably be a good match, or the GM-D7400M if you want a class-D amp. both of those are Pioneer, the first is class AB and second is class D.
Yea, They are a german produced product. HIGH Quality stuff.
I wound up buying a set of Pioneer 720PRS's and will be running them active hopefully here shortly. Suppose to sound amazing
06-07-2008, 06:14 PM
#54
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kwc you can kiss my ass all you do to everyone's forum is talk up negative ****. You bust everyone else's custom stuff. U must be, like rockstar said, too retarded to think and do something yourself. So instead of sittin on here dissin everyone's custom stuff they're trying, get your ass outside and try something yourself.
And now for the reason I am actually writing this post..
Rockstar have you bought the Shallow mount sub already?
I got mine for sale if you're interested. I had it in my truck.
And now for the reason I am actually writing this post..
Rockstar have you bought the Shallow mount sub already?
I got mine for sale if you're interested. I had it in my truck.
06-08-2008, 01:06 AM
#55
Rockstar have you bought the Shallow mount sub already?
I got mine for sale if you're interested. I had it in my truck.
I got mine for sale if you're interested. I had it in my truck.
Instead of black suede, which I couldn't seem to find ANYWHERE today, I went ahead and bought a yard of the black carpet they use at Empress Audio to cover their boxes. I also bought a can of rubber coating to spray on the rear deck to control vibrating(the guy at EA told me this would work perfectly instead of selling me a 20ft roll of dynamat for $150), a can of spray adhesive, some fiberglass hardener, and some more fiberglass cloth. Once I get the deck layed in I'll rub her down with some fiberglass to smooth it over nicely before I cover it with the carpet. Hopefully I'll have my MDF sometime this week and will try to work on it every day after work. Expect updates this week!
06-08-2008, 06:34 AM
#56
and easy way to explain it... ohm is the electrical resistance between to conductors. simply said the lower the ohm the easier it is to make an electrical connecttion. some one correct me if im wrong.
the class d amp.. well heres a def of how it works.Class D
Main article: Switching amplifier
These use switching to achieve a very high power efficiency (more than 90% in modern designs). By allowing each output device to be either fully on or off, losses are minimized. The analog output is created by pulse-width modulation, i.e. the active element is switched on for shorter or longer intervals instead of modifying its resistor. There are more complicated switching schemes like sigma-delta modulation, to improve some performance aspects like lower distortions or better efficiency.
and heres how the class ab works. Class AB
Here the two active elements conduct more than half of the time as a means to reduce the cross-over distortions of Class B amplifiers. In the example of the complementary emitter followers a bias network allows for more or less quiescent current thus providing an operating point somewhere between Class A and Class B. Sometimes a figure is added, e.g. AB1 or AB2, with higher figures implying a higher quiescent current and therefore more of the properties of Class A.
basically a class d is more efficent to run at high power for the purpose of pushin high wattage subs.
the class d amp.. well heres a def of how it works.Class D
Main article: Switching amplifier
These use switching to achieve a very high power efficiency (more than 90% in modern designs). By allowing each output device to be either fully on or off, losses are minimized. The analog output is created by pulse-width modulation, i.e. the active element is switched on for shorter or longer intervals instead of modifying its resistor. There are more complicated switching schemes like sigma-delta modulation, to improve some performance aspects like lower distortions or better efficiency.
and heres how the class ab works. Class AB
Here the two active elements conduct more than half of the time as a means to reduce the cross-over distortions of Class B amplifiers. In the example of the complementary emitter followers a bias network allows for more or less quiescent current thus providing an operating point somewhere between Class A and Class B. Sometimes a figure is added, e.g. AB1 or AB2, with higher figures implying a higher quiescent current and therefore more of the properties of Class A.
basically a class d is more efficent to run at high power for the purpose of pushin high wattage subs.
to sum it up a class D is ment to run subs and has less current draw on your electrical. Class a/b is "cleaner" but less efficient. When running subs and low freqs its hard to tell the difference from a class ab and D amp (if i could guess the people on this site that could it would probably be 2)
Ohms is simply how you hook up your amp. Only difference is a supposive sound quality increase at higher ohm levels but again only 1 or 2 people on this site could tell) DONT look for a certain ohm level for better preformance just make sure it matches speakers and amp. example... a single 2ohm DVC (dual coil) could be ran off a single channel of output at either 1ohm or 4 ohms. So you would look for a 1 ohm stable mono block amp that matches the power of the speaker or a 2 ohm stable 2 channel that would be bridged for a 4 ohm load
let me know how u like the prs comps... i havent been impressed with any pionner speakers ive herd so far but the prs comps looked promising at CES
dont sweat it ur currently workign faster then me
Last edited by EmperorJJ1; 06-08-2008 at 06:34 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
06-08-2008, 10:07 AM
#57
Holy cheap prices batman!
onlinecarstereo.com
I just found the 1000w version of the same sub I wanted for LESS THAT THE 800W! Pioneer TS-SW2541D $109.00 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17004 This sub is rated at 250w rms and is a 4 ohm... So I need a mono block........4 ohm amp with a 250 rms rating to push this sub? Is that right?
If so, then this amp would work http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19066 Pioneer GM-D7400M 800w max power class d mono amp
continuous power @ 4 ohm = 250w x 1
continuous power @ 2 ohm = 400w x 1
-$149
Pioneer TS-A1682R http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17417 I need these also, and for $59 that isn't bad.
And to top everything off, once I finish the speakers and such, here's the head unit I'll be getting whenever I decide to fiberglass my center dash and console
Pioneer AVH-P6000DVD http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19550 for a healthy $779
Every order over $99 is shipped free, so I'd pay no shipping. I'll definitely be ordering from onlinecarstereo.com this is the website kevin told me about the other day I couldn't remember
onlinecarstereo.com
I just found the 1000w version of the same sub I wanted for LESS THAT THE 800W! Pioneer TS-SW2541D $109.00 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17004 This sub is rated at 250w rms and is a 4 ohm... So I need a mono block........4 ohm amp with a 250 rms rating to push this sub? Is that right?
If so, then this amp would work http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19066 Pioneer GM-D7400M 800w max power class d mono amp
continuous power @ 4 ohm = 250w x 1
continuous power @ 2 ohm = 400w x 1
-$149
Pioneer TS-A1682R http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17417 I need these also, and for $59 that isn't bad.
And to top everything off, once I finish the speakers and such, here's the head unit I'll be getting whenever I decide to fiberglass my center dash and console
Pioneer AVH-P6000DVD http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19550 for a healthy $779
Every order over $99 is shipped free, so I'd pay no shipping. I'll definitely be ordering from onlinecarstereo.com this is the website kevin told me about the other day I couldn't remember
06-08-2008, 10:16 AM
#58
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Lol, yea Itialian, my bad.
The PRS's are suppose to be like every other component set until your run them active. Set the tweeters at 3k crossed over and they lose a bit of their low level distortion at high volume. The mid's have pretty decent bass. My doors are going to be insulated very very heavily on friday of this week and I will let you know how they improve. I've heard basically the same raving about them for awhile, that they sound pretty good and then people buy a decent deck and set them up to run active and are like holy crap!
The only thing I have against Pioneer is they seem like the retail is outragous
lol. The PRSs retail for over $600 and I only paid $249.95 shipped for mine.
06-08-2008, 01:53 PM
#61
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Have you considered doing the back deck in two (or better yet three) pieces? Or using some injection foam sound dampening material?
If you did it in three pieces, then make the middle piece have supports that run out to each side to brace the two side panels and put your amp rack on it. Would be a little more work but look good and be easier to put in and take out then even the stock setup. Plus if you do the braces right it will be a lot sturdier then stock (specially if you add the below).
As for the spray foam, after you get all the wires run, with the panels your using on fill up the gab with the spray foam. It will provide good sound/vibration damping.
If you did it in three pieces, then make the middle piece have supports that run out to each side to brace the two side panels and put your amp rack on it. Would be a little more work but look good and be easier to put in and take out then even the stock setup. Plus if you do the braces right it will be a lot sturdier then stock (specially if you add the below).
As for the spray foam, after you get all the wires run, with the panels your using on fill up the gab with the spray foam. It will provide good sound/vibration damping.
06-08-2008, 03:09 PM
#62
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Peel N Seel from lowes is cheap. You'll just want an air freshner in the car for like a week while the smell clears out.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...625&lpage=none
That's the only "cheaper" stuff I could think of.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...625&lpage=none
That's the only "cheaper" stuff I could think of.
06-08-2008, 10:59 PM
#67
Well I have a can of some kinda rubberized **** the guy at the audio shop told me to use. And yeah, my new design will probably be a two piece, if not three piece set up. I'll post details later. Going to bed. 4 o'clock comes early. Thanks for the help and suggestions! Keep em coming!
06-08-2008, 11:54 PM
#68
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Holy cheap prices batman!
onlinecarstereo.com
I just found the 1000w version of the same sub I wanted for LESS THAT THE 800W! Pioneer TS-SW2541D $109.00 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17004 This sub is rated at 250w rms and is a 4 ohm... So I need a mono block........4 ohm amp with a 250 rms rating to push this sub? Is that right?
If so, then this amp would work http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19066 Pioneer GM-D7400M 800w max power class d mono amp
continuous power @ 4 ohm = 250w x 1
continuous power @ 2 ohm = 400w x 1
-$149
Pioneer TS-A1682R http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17417 I need these also, and for $59 that isn't bad.
And to top everything off, once I finish the speakers and such, here's the head unit I'll be getting whenever I decide to fiberglass my center dash and console
Pioneer AVH-P6000DVD http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19550 for a healthy $779
Every order over $99 is shipped free, so I'd pay no shipping. I'll definitely be ordering from onlinecarstereo.com this is the website kevin told me about the other day I couldn't remember
onlinecarstereo.com
I just found the 1000w version of the same sub I wanted for LESS THAT THE 800W! Pioneer TS-SW2541D $109.00 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17004 This sub is rated at 250w rms and is a 4 ohm... So I need a mono block........4 ohm amp with a 250 rms rating to push this sub? Is that right?
If so, then this amp would work http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19066 Pioneer GM-D7400M 800w max power class d mono amp
continuous power @ 4 ohm = 250w x 1
continuous power @ 2 ohm = 400w x 1
-$149
Pioneer TS-A1682R http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=17417 I need these also, and for $59 that isn't bad.
And to top everything off, once I finish the speakers and such, here's the head unit I'll be getting whenever I decide to fiberglass my center dash and console
Pioneer AVH-P6000DVD http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=19550 for a healthy $779
Every order over $99 is shipped free, so I'd pay no shipping. I'll definitely be ordering from onlinecarstereo.com this is the website kevin told me about the other day I couldn't remember
im not sure if you already said this yet, but do you what your going to do for your trunk setup yet? or are you just putting the sub in the stock location and mounting the amp on the seat or something?
06-10-2008, 07:23 PM
#69
I'll be building a custom amp rack to mount the new amp whenever I get it but nothing special for the sub. I'm just gonna keep it sleeper and mount it in the stock box. However, there are future plans of mounting an XX" monitor underneath the trunk lid with two 6.5" speakers on either side. I believe it's been done before but I've been wanting to do that since I bought the car. That's another place and time tho. After I finish my other interior work first...
06-10-2008, 09:56 PM
#70
I think BadGirl put a 27" LCD back there, if I remember right.
Won't the subs pounding so close to the screen cause problems?
So you want to put it right on the lid of the trunk right?
I would sink the $$$ into a custom box first if I were you.
The screen in the trunk is more for competitions than anything practical and with out some kind of box other than the stock one I can't see you entering to many comps in the near future.
Good idea otherwise, should look nice.
If your looking for an alternative to Dynamat, try Hush Mat, it's half the price and easier to aply. I went with a little of both (Hush and Dynamat) but only because I didn't have the time to wait for the shop to order more hush mat in ( I bought up there whole supply)
IMO they both work the same or are just as effective
Won't the subs pounding so close to the screen cause problems?
So you want to put it right on the lid of the trunk right?
I would sink the $$$ into a custom box first if I were you.
The screen in the trunk is more for competitions than anything practical and with out some kind of box other than the stock one I can't see you entering to many comps in the near future.
Good idea otherwise, should look nice.
If your looking for an alternative to Dynamat, try Hush Mat, it's half the price and easier to aply. I went with a little of both (Hush and Dynamat) but only because I didn't have the time to wait for the shop to order more hush mat in ( I bought up there whole supply)
IMO they both work the same or are just as effective
06-10-2008, 11:16 PM
#71
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I'll be building a custom amp rack to mount the new amp whenever I get it but nothing special for the sub. I'm just gonna keep it sleeper and mount it in the stock box. However, there are future plans of mounting an XX" monitor underneath the trunk lid with two 6.5" speakers on either side. I believe it's been done before but I've been wanting to do that since I bought the car. That's another place and time tho. After I finish my other interior work first...
06-11-2008, 02:00 AM
#72
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Peel N Seel from lowes is cheap. You'll just want an air freshner in the car for like a week while the smell clears out.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...625&lpage=none
That's the only "cheaper" stuff I could think of.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...625&lpage=none
That's the only "cheaper" stuff I could think of.
u guys are so freaken cheap, go by some dynamat stop useing crap ass roof products that arnt ment for your car ......and listen up I install for a living and specialize in custom fabrication and fiberclass molds so dont tell me i dont know anything about car audio ..your starting this system with out having all your material in hand or even some mdf to work with stop being a dumb **** get all your cards to gether then lay then out the 1st thing u need to do is get 4 bulk kits of dynamat and dynamat the hole car before u do anything else
06-11-2008, 12:55 PM
#73
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u guys are so freaken cheap, go by some dynamat stop useing crap ass roof products that arnt ment for your car ......and listen up I install for a living and specialize in custom fabrication and fiberclass molds so dont tell me i dont know anything about car audio ..your starting this system with out having all your material in hand or even some mdf to work with stop being a dumb **** get all your cards to gether then lay then out the 1st thing u need to do is get 4 bulk kits of dynamat and dynamat the hole car before u do anything else
Finally he snaps. So thats y u think everyone else's stuff is **** cuz yours is just soooo much better!
06-11-2008, 01:36 PM
#74
lulz he thing dynamat is the **** how can we believe him that he does this stuff for a living? dynamat = a ripoff there are better things for much cheaper that a "pro: installer would know to use
second off if there's a hole in your car you shouldn't just cover it with dynamat you should really fix it the right way.. well least we know he's not a body shop guy either (yes i was picking on your spelling)
how can we believe him that he does this stuff for a living? dynamat = a ripoff there are better things for much cheaper that a "pro: installer would know to use second off if there's a hole in your car you shouldn't just cover it with dynamat you should really fix it the right way.. well least we know he's not a body shop guy either
(yes i was picking on your spelling)
06-11-2008, 01:52 PM
#75
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lulz he thing dynamat is the **** how can we believe him that he does this stuff for a living? dynamat = a ripoff there are better things for much cheaper that a "pro: installer would know to use
second off if there's a hole in your car you shouldn't just cover it with dynamat you should really fix it the right way.. well least we know he's not a body shop guy either (yes i was picking on your spelling)
how can we believe him that he does this stuff for a living? dynamat = a ripoff there are better things for much cheaper that a "pro: installer would know to use second off if there's a hole in your car you shouldn't just cover it with dynamat you should really fix it the right way.. well least we know he's not a body shop guy either
(yes i was picking on your spelling)there is no winning here, dynamat is the best u guys may use some cheaper **** down there and think its the best but when it gets -40 bellow up here dynamat never peels off ...you guys are talking about useing home improvment type of **** so...who is the reall idiot here. what other brands would a pro installer know off.... brown dead....xtrem dead, b-quite? or that cheap ass ebay brand that always peels off and leaves a huge mess?
and wtf are u talking about body work?