New amp with whine?
this is just what he told me. He told me that because my HU is stock, the factory harness is still there, and that's the only thing he can think of that's causing the whine. I know I don't have a clue, but I do know that I can't have the gains up as high as they should be cause the stupid whine gets worse when you do that.
He put 2 new LOCs on it a while back to fix an issue with the door speakers, and the noise persists. I don't think they're grounded. The power wire goes to the battery in the trunk, i don't know about the ground I'll look and post after I get home from work. There are 2 LOCs, I have one for each amp.
OK what bestbuy does this guy work at? because saying the harness has something to do with the whine is like saying your floor mats cause engine noise! I work at BB and that is the dumbest thing ive ever heard (BESIDES CHECK YOUR BLINKER FLUID). I had whine and i took out my seats and ran everything down the center of my car away from all electrical wire, did a return ground, and made the amp ground alittle shorter and worked like a champ, i eventually took out the amp but that was for money issues! Whats this i keep hearing about grounding the RCAS on pioneer decks?
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthre...7&page=1&pp=10
Run a ground straight to the battery. and it shouldnt matter how the power wires are ran as long as they dont cross the rcas. In the case of the cobalt the RCAs should only be wired in the front and power in the back
ok. problem is somewhat solved. guy at best buy said he wouldn't run it to the battery because you were never supposed to do that, the wire was supposed to be as short as possible. he regrounded it somehow, i haven't looked yet, and then turned down the amp and loc gains. so the whine is gone. and even cooler my blinkers are actually normal volume now, which I am thoroughly enjoying
. So far the only con is that, once again, the gains have to be down, which means a lot less volume with every click of the knob, and i had to change the speed sensitive setting again. So we'll see if I can live with this. I like the HU that's in the car, plus when people look in they can't tell I have a system since it looks totally stock, but if a new HU that doesn't need LOCs will fix the problem, plus the harness thing, I might have to bump that on the list of upgrades for the future. Thanks for the help guys.
. So far the only con is that, once again, the gains have to be down, which means a lot less volume with every click of the knob, and i had to change the speed sensitive setting again. So we'll see if I can live with this. I like the HU that's in the car, plus when people look in they can't tell I have a system since it looks totally stock, but if a new HU that doesn't need LOCs will fix the problem, plus the harness thing, I might have to bump that on the list of upgrades for the future. Thanks for the help guys.
well i don't trust myself to do anything with the electrical on that stuff, I know too little. I'm learning, but I'm still not quite comfortable with that. If it needs to be run to the battery, I might be able to get my friend who got creds to do it for me, but why would he say it shouldn't ever be run to the negative and you say it should? I trust you Emp cause you've helped me before, just curious.
because in 98% of cars the battery is up front. running a ground to the battery isn't efficient and ends up being worse then a body ground. in cobalts where the battery is right there is more efficient and has less resistance to run it straight to the batt
ill be honest the ground shouldn't give your system the alt whine BUT it can. considering he supposedly tried everything else it cant hurt. alt whine is really hard to figure out because there's alot of factors that could be a possibility but i think your installer is looking at the issue incorrectly

straight to the battery
ill be honest the ground shouldn't give your system the alt whine BUT it can. considering he supposedly tried everything else it cant hurt. alt whine is really hard to figure out because there's alot of factors that could be a possibility but i think your installer is looking at the issue incorrectly

straight to the battery
my battery is nowhere near that close to my amp, I mean it's not far... I'll try to get a picture of the trunk up if I can soon, and you can tell me what you think. It would involve a considerably longer wire to ground it to the battery.
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