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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 12:54 AM
  #1  
tricky1's Avatar
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From: Sterling, Illinois
Plans Plans Plans

Well seeing as it's winter time, and my license is suspended(prolly til the end of March, which works out perfectly.) I'll probably take advantage of the time I'll have to Dynamat/Second Skin/Peel and Seal(a roofing material that is a cheaper alternative and sounds just as good to the above) and Make a fiberglass box for my L5 and fab up an amp rack. I'm hoping it comes out good.

The main reasons I'm wanting to make a fiberglass box is weight, and space.(My current box has to be pushed in through the flip down seats.)

First Step will be the Dynamat
then Fiberglass
then Amp Rack

I'll make sure to post pics and howtos.
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 08:48 PM
  #2  
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From: houma, Louisiana
ok...
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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From: Denville, NJ
are you actually doing the glass or having someone do it?
edit: do you have any experience with glass? just wondering because the **** i have seen come from someone with no exp. is amazing!!
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 10:08 PM
  #4  
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From: Sterling, Illinois
I have absolutely no experience with fiberglass, I think the reason that people with no exp do so good is that they actually take more time to do the job rather then rushing it. The also have no pervious goal they need to break.

Tonight I stripped the trunk of everything but the battery. I'm debating on wheter or not to 86 the spare, I took the stud for the tire/jack out.
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Old Nov 12, 2006 | 10:14 PM
  #5  
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From: Charles Town, WV
I am working on my fiberglass box now.....i just posted pics in the pic section. Its ready for paint now.....

Good luck on your box...Patience lol.
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 12:07 AM
  #6  
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From: Sterling, Illinois
Ok so I've decided on my deadning product. Elemental Designs eDead v3, it's a paint on deadener, It is useful in any application you would usually use a mat deadner except for under the hood. It runs $50 a gallon and covers ~50sqft. The main thing I like about Elemental Designs pricing is they charge by the SqFt, so you can order 1sqft or 666 sqft

The low end mat deadner is $1.00 a sqft(eDead v1)
The mid range mat deadner is $1.60 a sqft(eDead v1SE)
The paint on deadner is basically $1.00 a sqft or $50 a gallon(eDead v3...what I'm using)
The high end mat deadner is $2.00 a sqft(eDead Teklite v4)

Can't wait to start.
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 12:21 AM
  #7  
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From: Na
edead also make the paint on v1 i would use that on your trunk its much thicker its also known as sluge
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 12:26 AM
  #8  
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From: houma, Louisiana
goodluck on fiberglassing in the cold... it was about 50degrees here today and it took forever for my bondoglass to dry... had to break out the heat gun
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 12:36 AM
  #9  
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From: Sterling, Illinois
Would a heatgun negativly effect the process?

As for v1 as a paint on product, I can't seem to find it on their site.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 12:40 AM
  #10  
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From: Florida
Originally Posted by tricky1
Would a heatgun negativly effect the process?

As for v1 as a paint on product, I can't seem to find it on their site.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/
A heat gun shouldn't do any damage to the project. I used it on my speaker box and it came out fine.
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Old Nov 13, 2006 | 11:04 AM
  #11  
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Be very careful with a heat gun, especially if it is the old coil kinds. The fumes can be very flamable. Also, I do not like to use heat guns on fabric. Fabric is too thick and it takes too long to cure. If you put your heat gun in closer it will start to bubble and will ruin it. There is also the fact that you have to do it evenly. With a thick few lairs of mat or with a lair of fabric you will usually not get it to cure evenly and you will get some gummy spots and some hard spots. Also, do not...I repeat do not add extra hardener thinking that will make it cure faster and make it heat up hotter. It will but it will make your resin cure more brittle.

I don't recomend doing it in doors. Any one who hasn't done it before doesn't relize how harsh the fumes actually are. If you are doing it and you start to get light headed (seriously) walk away and finish it later. If you put it inside use a small room with windows. Otherwise when you walk into the room after letting it cure for a little you will be walking into a chamber of braincell death.

I would wait untill it gets warmer. THis is a good time to plan measure and buy equipment, but as far as glassing goes...This just isn't the time for that. If you want to do some research on it this is a prety good site for some one that knows nothing. Also, these DvD are really really well done. They are very helpful if you want to spend the money.
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Old Nov 16, 2006 | 10:08 AM
  #12  
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From: Denville, NJ
Originally Posted by PlaysWitCars
I am working on my fiberglass box now.....i just posted pics in the pic section. Its ready for paint now.....

Good luck on your box...Patience lol.
nice job on your box so far. keep those pics coming. i will post my pics of console, dash, and sub box when painted....maybe a teaser soon though

one more thing...do not attempt your project with out a respirator like this one.. the little particle masks will not do it. use plenty of mat and do not over saturate your mat with resin. instead of a heat gun i use a flood lamp. you know those yellow construction ones....they work great.

also read up on www.fiberglassforums.com
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