Hey guys =D
lol...
anyway.. I just got a system installed. I got 3 JL audio 10's, a 920w Kenwood amp and my amp wireing kit is 1400w! I also have a stock headunit with the converter for the amp and sub output. I had a local audio place install it. Well I have no complaints on sound or anything.. I love it =D
But when I turn my car off and like just take the keys out and like just hang out around the car. I'll hear the subs kinda kick in for a sec and make a rumbling base noise. and then if you just wait a while longer.. (sometimes longer than others) it'll kick in again and rumble. Well I talked to the guy who installed it and he said that I'm going to need an aftermarket headunit for my car because since I have a stock headunit and i'm using the converter thingy (lol) that it's making it do that..(or something like that lol)! I mean I know that if I have an aftermarket headunit that It will sound better(and i'll get one soon). It's just that I don't want to have this problem anymore. So if anyone can help that will be soooo appreciated. thanks

(I tried to describe it best I can)

 

few options here....

number one, most of those converters have an adjustment on them for when they "kick in"... if it is too sensitive, that could happen.

also, it could be a short in the amp.

 

Im thinking the problem is the fact your using the stock deck means your remote wire on the amp isnt direct with the deck... meaning your amp will still be on if the deck is off so while the amp is on its getting some type of signal from somewhere (dont know if a better ground on the amp could fix it) and is playing it thru the subs.

 

Well Like the amp doesn't stay on.. LIke the subs just make that lil base sound then it stops and a while later it does it again and lil while later it does it again. But then It stops for good. Like it will do it 3-4 times after I turn off the car. In like diff. periods out of no where it'll just rumble.(kinda scary if ur not prepared for it lol) but then it'll just stop. I talked to some guy and he said it's the amp just trying to get rid of the extra "juices."
So like it does that to get rid of something and that's why it stops.. Does that make sense to?

 

no because thats impossible...

 

Alright.. as you can see I know very little about that stuff. lol Thanks for all ur input.

 

just ask your installer what they tapped into for the remote wire for the amp?

oh and i wasnt saying the problem itself was impossible but the amp doesnt get rid of juices... once its off its off. Like i said im thinking its a problem with the remote on the amp because if the amp is on without control from the deck (because the deck is off) then your problem makes perfect sense....

does this problem happen if you open your doors? Try creating the problem again but open your door right after turning off the car

 

Yeah it does do it after I open the door and get out and shut it again. Iono if It does it if I leave the door open. I'll try.

 

you sound like a chick with all those "likes" jk

 

try 5 dollar noise isolators on the high low converters. (For the RCA's)
And also lower the input sensitivity on the converters.

 

i hooked my remote wire dirrectly to my heater fan motor under the passenger foot area,this way when keys are off there is no source to supply any kind of interuption, also try running the remote wire to say the sunroof fuse , tht might help? my line convertor is from schocsh and i love it , i get no kick back and i'm runnign the factory sub plus 2 10's, good luck

 

Put a toggle switch inline with the ground for the converter and make sure you turn it off about 5 seconds before you shut the car off........that will cure the problem....i did this on mine when i was running the stock HU....the converter will still send power through the RCA's even when the car is shut off.....hope this helps.......Boadie

 

a small relay attached to the remote lead would do the same job, no?

 

no not really.....a relay is used to take a small amount of power from a switch and turn on a circuit with a higher power rating.....unfortunatly this will not get you the same result as the toggle switch on the ground wire.

 

Hey that's funny as hell! hahhaah. When I reread what I wrote I was laughing. lol.. Why'd you have to go and Point me out like that. lol Funny
Anywayz.. back on topic.. I realized that it has to do with my doors. When I turn off my car and open the door then wait...it will rumble
if I close the door after waiting for the rumble, then it will rumble again.
if I reopen the door the red light on my amp will turn on...then in bit it will rumble again and the light will turn off. So i'm thinking it has to do w/ my doors.
My amp has this lil red light and if i open/close a door that red light will turn on then after it rumbles the light will turn off and it won't rumble at all anymore. till i reopen/close.
I mean it's not that annoying when I leave my car or get in it's just when I'm reopening and closing doors for whatever the purpose and it keeps doing that. and ppl are like...WTF lol hehehe

P.S. I didn't you "like" in the one post above
Well I did but not in the way I was earlier. haha

 

What kind of converter did they use?Is it the type that has a turn on leadn built in?Maybe when you open and close the doors,the air inside the car is moving the speaker,and making it turn on the amp.You know when u close your door,if you have a sunroof,it lifts up alittle bit?Maybe it has the same affect on the subs.Either that or they tapped into your dome light wire to turn the amp on,lol.

 

I have had this problem before on my old car and a lot of my friends. Its a Bad Line out converter (the thingy that you were talking about) Tell them to replace it and it WILL fix the problem. Half of those damn things are bad. Especially if there the brand best buy sells.

 

nope on the line convertor and nope on the internal air moving the subs.

If your amp light turns on and off with the door then i was right. They tapped a fuse that is some how effected by the door opening and closing. Like ptr im thinking it could be the dome light but it may also be somehow the door sensor itself since there isnt a pattern (like it only does it when the door is open or only when closed) Go back to wherever you had it installed and ask them what fuse they tapped for the remote (like i said before) and tell them to change it to the sunroof fuse

 

the subs are taking stored energy and expelling it. i had the problem in my old car, i'm not sure, but i think i pretty much re-installed everything just to make sure it wasn't my error when i hooked it all up..

 

subs dont store energy... neither do amps

 

The input sensitivity on the line input converter is set too high. I have that same problem on mine, only no converter, just through the amp. Turn down the sensitivity, if it's adjustable, and your problem will be solved. My system is not tied into any fuses but will still make the same noises you're describing, until sensitivity is low enough. Hope that helps.