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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 06:09 PM
  #1  
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problem with amp/subs

all of the sudden my subs started skipping beats realllllly bad, sometimes it would just shut the subs off for a few seconds, while other times it would just miss a beat in a song and keep going. ill list off what ive done so far to try and correct the problem.

adjusted gain/crossover freq.
reconnected speaker wires from amp to sub box
reconnected wires that connect the subs to the sub box
adjusted EQ settings on deck
reconnected power wire from amp to battery
unplugged 1 sub at a time to see if it was a problem with 1, but all 4 did it.
reconnected RCA's on both ends amp/deck

if anyone has any ideas that would be great.

EDIT: this only happens when the volume is turned up (not close to max volume though) so I think it might be clipping, ive never had a problem with it so i have no idea what it sounds like or how to fix it.

EDITX2: its a rockford t40001bd with 4 boston g5's and the gain is only turned about 1/3 the way up and crossover freq is at 130, the "clipping" occurs regardless of how high or low the gain is, right when i turn the volume up on the deck it starts up again. It happens on every song and my ipod, CD, and radio.

Last edited by brickloaf; Dec 23, 2008 at 01:17 AM. Reason: i love men
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 01:48 AM
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think maybe ur drawing to much current and its going into protect?

whats ur voltage level
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 01:55 AM
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From: sk
Originally Posted by brickloaf
all of the sudden my subs started skipping beats realllllly bad, sometimes it would just shut the subs off for a few seconds, while other times it would just miss a beat in a song and keep going. ill list off what ive done so far to try and correct the problem.

adjusted gain/crossover freq.
reconnected speaker wires from amp to sub box
reconnected wires that connect the subs to the sub box
adjusted EQ settings on deck
reconnected power wire from amp to battery
unplugged 1 sub at a time to see if it was a problem with 1, but all 4 did it.
reconnected RCA's on both ends amp/deck

if anyone has any ideas that would be great.

EDIT: this only happens when the volume is turned up (not close to max volume though) so I think it might be clipping, ive never had a problem with it so i have no idea what it sounds like or how to fix it.

EDITX2: its a rockford t40001bd with 4 boston g5's and the gain is only turned about 1/3 the way up and crossover freq is at 130, the "clipping" occurs regardless of how high or low the gain is, right when i turn the volume up on the deck it starts up again. It happens on every song and my ipod, CD, and radio.
voltage drop somewhere in the system... may even be internally within the amplifier itself (ie. blown/weak capacitor)
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 02:01 AM
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doubt it... mind you my T30001bd took like 8amps to idle, and with 2/0 power and ground along with 2/0 battery ground all less then 10" or so would drop below 12v at times.... imagine one thats 1000w bigger and off smaller wire.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 02:02 AM
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From: STL
Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1
think maybe ur drawing to much current and its going into protect?

whats ur voltage level
its dosent go in to protect, and im not sure the voltage, but when i took it to the installer he used the meter and he said everything looked good.

Originally Posted by raptors_67
voltage drop somewhere in the system... may even be internally within the amplifier itself (ie. blown/weak capacitor)
can you replace amplifier internals? or would I need to buy a new one
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 02:45 AM
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clipping...or amp issues...i was HUGE in car audio is could even go all the way down to the alty...check your ground and remote wire...put a volt meter on the battery while that **** is hitting at max you listsen to it at,,,if it drops below 12v then you need to turn down your gains...did you tune the amp as well to match a certain tone like 50 hz or 45 hz? and box dimensions plzz
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 02:51 AM
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From: OR
Originally Posted by brickloaf
its dosent go in to protect, and im not sure the voltage, but when i took it to the installer he used the meter and he said everything looked good.



can you replace amplifier internals? or would I need to buy a new one
i need numbers. how high was the volume as well? any smells or anything out of the ordinary?

setup pics would be nice
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 02:56 AM
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From: STL
Originally Posted by boltedbalt
clipping...or amp issues...i was HUGE in car audio is could even go all the way down to the alty...check your ground and remote wire...put a volt meter on the battery while that **** is hitting at max you listsen to it at,,,if it drops below 12v then you need to turn down your gains...did you tune the amp as well to match a certain tone like 50 hz or 45 hz? and box dimensions plzz
i was thinking that could be it, but i hope not

just regrounded, and i dont see how the remote wire would affect it, as im pretty sure all it does is effect when the amp is turned on by whatever notch the key is turned to, if that makes sense.

this happens even if gain is at lowest setting. and i have always had the gain at the same setting and i didnt change it before this happened.

i did not

i dont see why that matters, its a custom box and its not a rectangle, all i can tell you is that its ported and each are 1.3cu per sub

Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1
i need numbers. how high was the volume as well? any smells or anything out of the ordinary?

setup pics would be nice
dosent matter what gain was, right when it got to half way on the volume is when is started. I cant really test anything right now as my radio wont turn on. (other thread)

and no different smells, but theres been a smell when i bump it, but its always done that.

Last edited by brickloaf; Dec 24, 2008 at 02:57 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:02 AM
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From: OR
i would test the subs. that smell your used to is probably the voice coil heating up....

what subs do you have btw
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:04 AM
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From: STL
boston g5's

and the subs work if thats what you mean
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:11 AM
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oh ya you said that huh. have another amp you can test? stock or aftermarket deck?

try running it at the volume just before it starts ******* up and crank the gain. will it still do it?

what size is the power/ground wire?
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:14 AM
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From: STL
Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1
oh ya you said that huh. have another amp you can test? stock or aftermarket deck?

try running it at the volume just before it starts ******* up and crank the gain. will it still do it?

what size is the power/ground wire?

no and no, im most likely going to buy a new HU if i can't get mine fixed, I would have already had it installed if the wiring kit wasnt 120 ******* dollars.


if i can get the radio to work

0 gauge

Last edited by brickloaf; Dec 24, 2008 at 03:33 AM. Reason: typed wrong gauge
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:23 AM
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is your distribution block and inline primary fuse holders AGU? if so replace fuses, weather likes to do a number on those, i was scratchin my head for a while when i had that issue. also, get your dmm out and check the voltage of you remote turn-on wire i believe you need at least 1.5volts (some one correct me)

EDIT: Wait, i just read about the smelling thing..... do your subs sound like floppy dog turds? and clicking like when they are hitting... youd have to open the trunk and have a listen.

emperorjj1 im thinking maybe spider detachment caused one vc to break? and basically having some mechanical problems causing electrical ones.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:28 AM
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From: sk
Originally Posted by KillinKrullin
is your distribution block and inline primary fuse holders AGU? if so replace fuses, weather likes to do a number on those, i was scratchin my head for a while when i had that issue. also, get your dmm out and check the voltage of you remote turn-on wire i believe you need at least 1.5volts (some one correct me)
Don't know of too many amps on the market especially those designed for car audio that use anything but a 12 volt trigger on the remote turn on relay.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by raptors_67
Don't know of too many amps on the market especially those designed for car audio that use anything but a 12 volt trigger on the remote turn on relay.
Maybe im thinking of amperage its late.... you only need 1.5mA in the 12V remote wire????? idk sounds good, ive always used a way stonger signal then that though
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:40 AM
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From: STL
Originally Posted by KillinKrullin
is your distribution block and inline primary fuse holders AGU? if so replace fuses, weather likes to do a number on those, i was scratchin my head for a while when i had that issue. also, get your dmm out and check the voltage of you remote turn-on wire i believe you need at least 1.5volts (some one correct me)

EDIT: Wait, i just read about the smelling thing..... do your subs sound like floppy dog turds? and clicking like when they are hitting... youd have to open the trunk and have a listen.

emperorjj1 im thinking maybe spider detachment caused one vc to break? and basically having some mechanical problems causing electrical ones.
it sounds normal. its reallly hard to explain, but ill try to break down whats happened in order.

1. sounded fine but would get VERY loud for like a 1/2 second on high notes/tones
2. subs started cutting in and out when i turned up volume on HU, but actual music still played
3. radio stopped turning on, amp/subs still turn on though.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 10:01 AM
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brick everything and start over.... dont know what else to say, wire everything with new wire get a h/u if its under warrantybuy new fuses (including the fuse that your using for a remote wire) for both h/u and amp. try a different source for remote maybe? I use the fuse for sunroof motor its 15amp i think.

if that amp gets loud by itself right b4 it goes out, its either a spike in the signal or a bad cap in the amp.

i would just buy all new **** to be honest
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 10:23 AM
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sounds like the amp is ******* up your electrical still. I'm not 100% sure what the exact problem but almost everything sounds like its a voltage issue.

check to see where you have the remote on the amp tapped to. oh and it doesnt really have to do with ur issue but the crossover is way to high at 130. try 80 or lower
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by brickloaf

no and no, im most likely going to buy a new HU if i can't get mine fixed, I would have already had it installed if the wiring kit wasnt 120 ******* dollars.


if i can get the radio to work

0 gauge
Sellin a nice deck if ur lookin. check my sig
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 11:41 AM
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Have you tried re wiring them in series to drop the load to 4 ohms and then ajusting the gain to match the output needed.

The difference in power draw from 1 to 4 ohms is alot even if the amp is turned up at 4 ohms it does not seem to have as much of an effect as it turned down at 1 ohm.

Some amps are just really picky about there setup
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 11:47 AM
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From: STL
Originally Posted by KillinKrullin
brick everything and start over.... dont know what else to say, wire everything with new wire get a h/u if its under warrantybuy new fuses (including the fuse that your using for a remote wire) for both h/u and amp. try a different source for remote maybe? I use the fuse for sunroof motor its 15amp i think.

if that amp gets loud by itself right b4 it goes out, its either a spike in the signal or a bad cap in the amp.

i would just buy all new **** to be honest
not gunna spend all that money if its just small problem.

Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1
sounds like the amp is ******* up your electrical still. I'm not 100% sure what the exact problem but almost everything sounds like its a voltage issue.

check to see where you have the remote on the amp tapped to
. oh and it doesnt really have to do with ur issue but the crossover is way to high at 130. try 80 or lower
not really sure how to do that either, im assuming its right under the fuse box, but all that isnt labeld like the box is


Originally Posted by Gestapo007
Sellin a nice deck if ur lookin. check my sig
looks nice, i only have 100 though cause of xmas shopping!

Originally Posted by Spun
Have you tried re wiring them in series to drop the load to 4 ohms and then ajusting the gain to match the output needed.

The difference in power draw from 1 to 4 ohms is alot even if the amp is turned up at 4 ohms it does not seem to have as much of an effect as it turned down at 1 ohm.

Some amps are just really picky about there setup
i dont know how to rewire any of it. it was all professionally installed while i was reading a magazine in the waiting room.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 08:30 PM
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if it was all "professionally installed" then the installers should be able to figure out why its doing that.

and yes spun is correct. at a higher impedence the amp is more efficient making it draw less current. Power output will be different thou but in a few cases it wont be noticeable just listening to it. I did test this out when i only had a single XXX 15, 1ohm vs 4ohm on the T30001bd
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 10:29 PM
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From: STL
Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1
if it was all "professionally installed" then the installers should be able to figure out why its doing that.

and yes spun is correct. at a higher impedence the amp is more efficient making it draw less current. Power output will be different thou but in a few cases it wont be noticeable just listening to it. I did test this out when i only had a single XXX 15, 1ohm vs 4ohm on the T30001bd
i took it back today and they ran some tests and its a defective radio!

new HU for me i guess...
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