Opi

When you added an aftermarket subwoofer, did you take out the stock sub as well or keep it in for a "mid" bass type set up?


As it stands, I replaced my entire system with Alpine components, but haven't gotten around to taking out, or disconnecting the stock sub. I made sure to have my Alpine subwoofer face the same direction as the Pioneer as well. Any problems with this?

LamboW9

iTrader: (3)

took mine out put in a scosche converter off the sub wires an then ran RCAs from that the the amp an then ran a remote up to a wire in the fuse box

wallas06SS

I took mine out also. I didn't want to take the chance of blowing it. If you have good 6 by 9's, you wont hear the 8" sub anyways. The 6 by 9's should be your mid bass.

Pontiac.G5

that sounds like a great idea

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

no such possibility without an added crossover and even then its not gonna work as a midbass. disconnect it to prevent cancellation

simon

07blackg5

iTrader: (8)

isnt it a ten incher?

Jplaya023

how did you go about removing it? the bolts are backwards and i couldn't fit a socket over the extending bolt...can anyone help me out?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

u need the long ass extension

Spun

iTrader: (1)

^^^
Yeah like a 8" or bigger extention and a 10mm deep socket, you know the ones that are like 2-2 1/2" long

blackbalt sport

Is there a problem with leaving it in the trunk? Just curious cuz I was just gonna leave mine in as well.

highrider43

If you leave it there then you will have no room to mount your JL 300/4 amp there like i did

KillerBee

I left mine in and my bass on my radio is at a -10 and my subs still pound lol

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

no but it should be disconnected

Jplaya023

yea definitely disconnect it and the only reason why i want to take mine out is because my trunk space is already limited and the more i can get the better haha

blackbalt sport

Why? Whats the reasoning behind that? just curious

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

causes cancellation... hece why its never recommended to mix differerent seires/size/power subs in a single car. If subs arent the same the will move slightly different and begin to cancel. Some people take it to the extreme and leave the stock sub. build a large sealed enclosure with 4 random subs of different sizes and throw a tiny ported box to the side. In the end all that ghetto rigged **** sounds bad and isnt as loud as a system thats planned out and done right

Brucesblack

excatly what Emperor said , ive seen it done when i worked at a car audio shop , and they alway's asked why it sounded like crap , !!

joeworkstoohard

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...hlight=upgrade


i acutually just upgraded mine.

blackbalt sport

Ok thanks

Switt23

iTrader: (7)

If you would like to get "technical" the mid bass should be coming from a 6" mid-bass woofer from a set on components in the doors . The 6x9's in the back are for rear fill. I would cross over the sub/s to like 50-60hz and lower depending on the components.

but yea, if you have decent 6x9s... the sub might not be as noticeable, but still very important. Lets see your 6x9s hit like a 20hz signal.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

unless you have a dedicated midbass driver or some badass speakers i would do the subs at 80-90hz. sound starts getting directional at about 50hz but in reality most speakers cant play that low well and crossing the sub that low would give u less output regardless

Switt23

iTrader: (7)

Unless like you said you have midbass drivers to fill the gap from the 50hz to whatever the tweeters are set at

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

right to fill the gap from the midrange.