Well, to begin with I had a breathalyzer installed about 3 months ago and the installer had to do crazy **** like wire it to the horn, etc...figured it wouldn't mess with much but turns out the trunk button on the interior of the car near the steering wheel won't pop the trunk and neither will the key fob anymore. Also the panic button on the key fob won't sound the car anymore....are there fuses for these functions or should i attribute this to the installation of the breathalyzer...I'd really like to get this fixed because manually opening the trunk is annoying and i lose my car easier

 

Not trying to be a dick but pull the lower dash panel off and be sure the button is still connected. Sometimes is the easy things. And open the trunk and check and make sure the cable is still connected at the trunk release. I think it looks like a steel cable with a ball on the end. I think you should check all your fuses anyway. Sucks to have a breathalyzer.

 

When you lock your doors with the FOB does the alarm light on the dash light up .
Its a yellow light, I think its a car with a pad lock but I may be wrong.

Those trunk release switches are easy to break/pull the wires out of. If you doing work under the dash and have to remove any of the trim panels this makes it that much easier to break it.

Do you know the name of the company that makes the breathalyzer, or is it a goverment thing?

 

government/independent.

if anything take that **** back to them and ask if they can check it out. you cant be sure what they tapped/disabled and i wouldn't mess with it if i were you

 

Id take and back and make them fix it or uninstall that breathalyzer haha

 

lol remember a breathalizer is a court ordered device. there shop wont uninstall it... might not even fix it but there aint **** you can do about it.

 

1 year later i finally bring it in to the stealership. jackasses ruined the circuitry for the trunk connection...unbelievable.

 

Key fobs are notorious for shitting the bed.

 

i wouldn't be surprised. c4... we just had to figure out how the stealership made it so a radio wont turn on by replacing the back bumper

 

lol it wasn't the key fob, the fusebox under the hood had some broken legs and the circuitry got shorted out for the trunk....and i guess i didn't make it clear enough but the people that installed the interlock device for my car were the culprits, although these geniuses at the stealership don't look like they know wtf they're doing either. and how the hell did they make a radio not turn on by replacing the back bumper? I'm interested in this escapade lol.

 

yea...update...they drilled through the firewall and hit the wire harness under the fuse box...unbelievable..i was wondering why my defroster wasn't defrosting either.

 

holy ****..

btw idk how that all worked out with the escalade but it was the rear bumper with the back up sensors. the sensors still didnt work. all i did was yank everything figure out it wasn't getting acc so replaced the radio fuse that looked good and wala

 

god fuses are some tricky ******* sometimes....I love my multimeter. continuity check ftw.

 

still got that breathlyizer on the car?

 

hell no man and i'm never making that stupid ******* mistake again lol...i had it removed like....a year and a half ago...its past the point where i can point fingers to the interlock company...it sure isn't going to stop me from sending in a receipt with a note of complaint against the outlet that did the install. I don't care if I don't get money back, etc., but I'm def. not going to keep quiet about it, especially since they vehemently denied all involvement with my trunk and panic button failing to work after their "professional" install.

 

so everything works great now, rear defroster, trunk, etc. they claimed there was nothing wrong with my rear right suspension assembly because i heard a clunk over every bump, minor, major etc....and when i picked the car up, it was miraculously fixed....i was ecstatic until i hopped out of the car and noticed my hood was propped up half an inch higher on the left side than it is on the right....lol. i bring my car somewhere to be fixed and they have to **** up at least one thing...im cursed.

 

damn that sucks

 

hey JJ, any battery suggestions for when i drop a 20001bd rockford in along with a T-6004 rockford. running something to the effect of 2400 rms. total....doing the big 3 etc and thinking about a mechman alt.

theres a good deal on some kinetiks online. just wondering if i should go for one expensive one or 2 cheaper ones with the 14-16v switch.

 

the hc16v???

 

this

2 KINETIK KHC16V 12-16V POWERCELL CAR AUDIO BATTERIES - eBay (item 350383241552 end time Nov-03-10 10:52:57 PDT)

or this

2 NEW KINETIK KHC1200 POWER CELL CAR AUDIO BATTERIES - eBay (item 390222045554 end time Nov-24-10 11:39:43 PST)

?

 

or this....for a single battery, the khc 2400 with a mounting sleeve

KINETIK KHC2400 POWER CELL BATTERY+MOUNTING SLEEVE - eBay (item 350345006038 end time Nov-19-10 06:43:11 PST)

 

i wouldnt recommend the HC16v because its a 16v battery and unless you plan on using it at 16v its just gonna break

regarding the 2 1200v vs the single 2400 get whatever gets u the highest "ah" or amp hours