EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

33" is fineish but the best performance would be something along the lines of 25in

BPacak

alright sounds good to me, thanks.

BPacak

one of you guys want to make like a official thread for stuff like this and il sticky it.

LamboW9

iTrader: (3)

hey EMP, what kinda fabric do you use when your fiberglassing? i'm going to be attempting on my own in the near future but don't know the names of any fabrics tho i hear anything that stretches is good as long as its not too thin.

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

Woah Woah Woah! Hold the phone! No sir.

Sealed:
These enclosures are usually the easiest enclosures to build and are the most forgiving of many constuction and design errors.

Other characteristics include a shallow roll off on the low end (12 dB), great low frequency power handling, the best transient responses, and smaller enclosure sizes than most other designs. However, magnet structures will not cool as well as they do in some ported enclosures, and distortion in the upper bass frequencies is more noticable than ported enclosures, but can usually be compensated for by lowering the crossover frequency or using a steeper cut-off filter.

Bandpass:

A fourth order enclosure (vented box) is a sealed enclosure with the additon of a port tuned to a specific frequency. The port extends the low frequency response of the basic sealed enclosure usually providing a lower cut-off frequency. The enclosure offers a good transient response (second to that of a sealed enclosure), good power handling within it's bandpass region, and excellent efficiency making it a popular choice for many competitors and everday users, but below the tuned frequency power handling is poor and damage to the woofer is likely to occur if over driven. Lowering the port frequency below that of the manufacturer's recommended frequency will only worsen matters and cause the sound to become "muddy"....bleah!

With any ported design enclosure, the largest port diameter or area should be used to minimize port noises (or whistling). Flaring the edges of the port is also recommended for the same reasons. Ports may be any shape, but a cyclinder is usually the easiest to incorporate into your design.

These enclosures are obviously more complex to build, less forgiving of design errors, and usually larger than sealed enclosures, but if done properly, they can provide that additional output a competitor desires.

Ported:

Bandpass:


Would probably be good. What is the volume of the enclosure and the volume your sub needs?

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

Just use pantyhose, double layer it and get the biggest size you can find

BPacak

heres the sub

SSD12 - Fi Car Audio Store

and the box i posted is 2.5cubic feet @ 32hz

LamboW9

iTrader: (3)

interesting tru! thanx for the knowledge on the bandpass vs ported. i suppose its possible that the bandpass i've heard was not tuned properly but i like the crisp hits of my tens in a sealed enclosure. not sure if thats possible in a ported enclosure but it sounds like it would be more complex.

pantyhose? you for real?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

you can use pantyhose... the best ive found is some stuff used to make swimsuits. local fabric store had it pretty cheap. i used that on my box trim piece. alot of peeps recommend fleece but its not the best at all. i think my tweeter pods were done with fleece but im not sure. both my center channel and tweeter pods are fabric w resin only no fiberglass

LamboW9

iTrader: (3)

i'm guessin you need to use fiberglass if you'd go with pantyhose as the base layer so it increases the tensile strength? can i get away without using fiberglass mat on something like that for a subwoofer enclosure on the face? or would you build a box and then design a fiberglass cover for it separate from the actually box itself?

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

Yes and no, it depends how thick you make the resin, anything less than 1/4" thick and I would use matte with resin to act like rebar in concrete. I am not understanding your second question. If you are building a basic square/wedge box and don't use any complex angles and **** you may need to use resin for I would do the box and make a trim piece from wood and resin over it, then sand and paint. If you are making some awkward box that has a ton of curves or you are trying to make a contour you would have a pain making with wood(or isn't possible) 'glass is your only real option. If you are trying to mold **** to where your carpet and stuff is make sure you cover everything you don't want attached to the box with foil or plastic wrap and tape it all off nice and neat. Remember you can easily sand off any foil/tape/plastic wrap, but you will not be able to remove your carpet once it has dried(or even when wet) without damaging it.

LamboW9

iTrader: (3)

well my box design is going to be in the air actually but i'm undecided on this or/and on future boxes if i should make a face. think along the lines of a box with one side (the side where the sub goes) is missing. then making a face for it. i suppose i could just go with making the entire box except the base out of fiberglass an matte but i'm still a novice and it scares me. i got all air tools and equipment but lack the confidence of an actual build

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

Lol, just take your time and do it right, just remember it is all reversible and if a box doesn't turn out right scrap it and make anew. That is what I did with my first 4th order build, ended up turning it into a ported and I can't imagine what it would have sounded like with the new subs in the 4th

BPacak

Noob question before I order my sub, I want to order dual 2ohm to wire it to 1ohm right? Haha

Nfamous60

iTrader: (11)

??? you mean dual voice coil? i think you can wire a 2ohm sub to one ohm i have a 4 ohm orion n 2 ohm orion ( shipping was f'd up) that i had wired to 3 ohms. but still one hit harder then the other.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

with a single sub yes you would want a dual 2

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

you should always use fiberglass regardless. resin has almost no strength by itself. the fabric is just there to make the initial mold. in cases like my tweeters they weigh almost nothing and move almost no air. theres no force on them ever so all it needs is the initial mold. strength isn't needed.

BPacak

alright just wanted to make sure, thanks. gonna be ordering next week, hopefully it doesnt take too long to build.

Nfamous60

iTrader: (11)

boxes usually dnt take long could b a day depends on specs and materials used.

BPacak

im talking about the sub

Nfamous60

iTrader: (11)

ooooo my bad skipped to many post

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

BTW only pioneer I would by:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPuX...ture=g-all-lik

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

We have to be using different resins. I used straight resin to reinforce the lip on my old kit and hit a curb pulling into a parking space, lip kept it's shape but broke the vertical support pieces(built into the fiberglass body kit).

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

possibly did u use epoxy resin? or polyester resin? and what hit the curb? theres a ton of factors that could have affected that btw. still if you want to build something strong you want to use fiberglass

also with that pioneer sub. not saying its a bad sub because it has its purposes but its not really awesome either

tru2nrtt777

iTrader: (1)

I used an epoxy, the front of the lip hit the curb and as I pulled forward the lip turned down and ripped the supports above it while the outer sides of the lip went up and cracked the kit near where it mounts to the fender.

I agree with you on the sub but if all I had available was Pioneer that would be the sub I would get. 3000wrms is impressive for that brand... 90lbs is not so much.