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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 09:12 PM
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Viper Security -How-To-

I found this from someone posting a link on here in a random thread..ive been loking for information on how to install the Viper 5701 for a few weeks and stubled across this on accident.

http://www.alertautomotive.com/diagrams/diagrams.asp

Sticky Please??

note: i dont claim this how to, i meerely stumbled across it. Yay for Forums

credit for link oes to -ford_sucks-

CHEVROLET

MODEL YEAR(S)
COBALT 2005 -
KEY T-HARNESS IMMOBILIZER
N/A N/A GM's PASSLOCK 2 requires Part # XK06 with PLXR 3.00 firmware
PART COLOR LOCATION DIAGRAM
12 VOLT CONSTANT RED/BLACK (+) (10 Gauge) @ BCM, C3, Pin D1, RED Plug, See NOTE *1
STARTER YELLOW (-) Not Required for Remote Starting, See NOTE *4
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 YELLOW (+) (20 Gauge) @ IGNITION HARNESS or BCM, C4, PIN D3, LIGHT GRAY Plug, See NOTE *1
IGNITION 2 N/A
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BROWN (+) (12 Gauge) @ IGNITION HARNESS or BCM, C4, PIN C8, LIGHT GRAY Plug, See NOTE *1
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) BROWN/WHITE (-) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or BCM C2, PIN 5, GRAY Plug, See NOTE *1
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL or BCM, C3, PIN A7, RED Plug, See NOTE *1
POWER LOCK WHITE (1-Wire System) See NOTE *2 IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL or BCM C1, Pin 7, GRAY Plug, See DIAGRAM 14301_COBALT_MALIBU 1 WIRE JBS UNITS.pdf
POWER UNLOCK Same wire, See DIAGRAMS See DIAGRAMS 14301_COBALT_MALIBU 1 WIRE ALERT SHELBY UNITS.pdf
LOCK MOTOR WIRE GRAY (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL or BCM, C3, Pin A4, RED Plug, See NOTE *1
DOOR TRIGGER GRAY/BLACK (-) and TAN/WHITE (-) Use BOTH, See NOTE *3 IN EACH KICK PANEL, See DIAGRAM 14301_COBALT_(-) NEGATIVE DOOR PIN ISOLATION CIRCUIT.pdf
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION GRAY (-) @ BCM, C3 PIN A 10, RED Plug, See NOTE *1
TRUNK RELEASE TAN (-) @ RELEASE SWITCH or BCM C2 PIN 10, GRAY Plug, See NOTE *1
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN TAN (-) @ BCM, C2, PIN 14, GRAY Plug, See NOTE *1
TACH ANY wire NOT PINK or PINK/BLACK @ any FUEL INJECTOR
WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A
BRAKE LIGHT BLUE (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM DISARMS with FACTORY REMOTE ONLY
ANTI-THEFT GM'S NEW PASSLOCK 2 ANTI-THEFT System, WHITE and WHITE/BLACK wire @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS, LIGHT GREEN Plug, See DAIGRAM
NOTES
NOTE *1 the BCM is part of the FUSE/RELAY BOX on the front PASSENGER SIDE of the CENTER CONSOLE. The BCM has the following connectors: C1-72 Pin GRAY Plug, C2-72 Pin GRAY Plug, C3-41 Pin RED Plug, and C4-68 Pin LIGHT GRAY Plug, the C4 Plug, is located on the BACK of the BCM.


NOTE *2 This vehicle uses a 1-Wire Door Locking System, LOCK requires a Straight (-)Negative, and UNLOCK requires a (-)Negative thru a 1500 Ohm Resistor, some units will also require 2 extra Relays part #775 to connect See DIAGRAMS.


NOTE* 3 This vehicle has 2 Door Trigger wires. When connecting to an ALARM SYSTEM, use both wires and DIODE ISOLATE, See DIAGRAM


NOTE *4 this vehicle uses the NEW PASSLOCK 2 ANTI-THEFT System that requires Bypass XK06 to order contact DIRECT WHOLESALE at 1-800-659-0764
LINK 1 LINK TEXT 1 LINK 2 LINK TEXT 2

EXTRA INFORMATION
Show Large Image This Under Dash Panel must be removed to gain access to the Under Dash wiring of this vehicle. Remove the (2) 1/4 inch Screws on each end of this panel at the bottom and the top of this panel is snapped into place and will pull off.
Show Large Image After removing the Under Dash panel, next you will find the Plastic Knee Bolster, to remove it, remove the (4) 10mm Bolts that hold it in place and set it aside.
Show Large Image This picture shows the Plastic Knee Bolster removed so that you can now get access to the Under Dash wiring.
Show Large Image To gain access to the Ignition Switch Harness plug, you will need to remove the (3) 1/4 inch screws (in the bottom of this cover) that holds the Bottom Steering Column cover in place.
Show Large Image
With the (3) screws on the bottom cover removed, you can now pull down on this cover to seperate it from the top cover.
Show Large Image
With the bottom Column cover removed, you can locate the LIGHT GREEN IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Plug on the BACK of the IGNITION SWITCH, left side of the Steering Column.
Show Large Image
The RED Clip in this picture marks the (3) IGNITION wires at the back of the Ignition Switch that you must use, the YELLOW is IGNITION #1, the WHITE and the WHITE/BLACK are the wires that are used for Bypassing the NEW PASSLOCK 2 Anti-theft System on this vehicle, See DIAGRAM. (NOTE the BROWN Accessory wire, not in this picture, is at the Back of the BCM)
Show Large Image
With the Column covers removed, if you have a (-) Negative Parking Light Output on your unit, you can connect to the (-) NEGATIVE BROWN/WHITE PARKING LIGHT wire, marked with the RED Clip in this picture, at the HEAD LIGHT Switch on the column, in a WHITE Plug.
Show Large Image
The (+) LIGHT BLUE BRAKE wire (2 wires are marked, both go to the same pin in the GRAY Plug), marked with the RED Clip in this picture, is located at the BRAKE SWITCH under the dash and above the BRAKE PEDAL or you can find this Brake wire at the BCM.
Show Large Image
The BCM is located in and to the Front of the Center Console, to access the BCM, will require the removal of this BCM Cover.
Show Large Image
The BCM Cover is just snapped in place.
Show Large Image

With the BCM cover removed, you can now see (3) of the (4) required BCM Plugs. The LARGE RED Plug, C3, is in the Center of this picture, as you can see, Plugs C1 and C2 are marked in this picture for identification. Plug C4 is on the Back of the BCM.
Show Large Image

To gain access to BCM's Plug C4, you must remove the Center Console cover on the Drivers side of the Console, this cover is just snapped into place, but it cannot be completely removed due to the rear of this panel being under the console. Pull this panel back and out of the way to get to the C4 LIGHT GRAY Plug.
Show Large Image
This picture shows the C4 LIGHT GRAY Plug on the Back of the BCM, this is looking thru the Center Console from the Drivers Side with the BCM Cover removed.
Show Large Image
This is a picture of the C4 Plug on the Back of the BCM, from the Drivers side of the Vehicle. The LARGE BROWN Accessory wire and the SMALL YELLOW Ignition #1 wire are marked with the RED clip in this picture.
Show Large Image
The WHITE DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK wire, marked with the RED clip in this pictue, is located in the C1 Plug at the BCM, the C1 Plug has the BLUE cover removed to gain better access to this wire.
Show Large Image
The (-) NEGATIVE BROWN/WHITE PARKING LIGHT wire, marked with the RED Clip in this picture is located at the BCM, C2 Plug.
Show Large Image

The (-) NEGATIVE TAN HORN wire, marked with the RED Clip in this picture is located at the BCM, C2 Plug.

--Diagram for POWER LOCK http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagr...BS%20UNITS.pdf
--Diagram for POWER UNLOCK http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagr...BY%20UNITS.pdf
--Diagram for DOOR TRIGGER http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagr...%20CIRCUIT.pdf

for this install on our Cobalts we need a bypass module. There are many available but the one i went with is a unit from xpresskits.com. you can buy them used off of amazon for 50$, and you have to have one. The modal i went with is the XK09 and you need to do a firmware update before its installed or it wont work. you kit may come with the wire to connect it to your computer or you may have to get it seperate, its 25$ for the XKInstaller.

Bypass: http://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=447

Firmware: you need the DLGM5X http://www.xpresskit.com/Firmwares.aspx?productid=447

Program to install it : http://www.xpresskit.com/XpressVIP.aspx

Something else-- I bought my Viper 5701 from on online retailler for 99.98 US$
-It is a remanufactured product from VIPER and comes with their warranty.

Have Fun

Last edited by tyler.avis; Jul 25, 2010 at 09:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #2  
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Good write up man, thanks!
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 01:13 AM
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Those pictures aren't really going to help much since it's not a Cobalt. For your bypass the XK09 is an alright module, however I would recommend using either the DLPK or the FL-CAN since they do pk3 bypass as well as provide door locks,triggers,trunk pop,etc. Not really necessary but it does speed up the install as well as clean it up a bit. I advise being careful doing remote starts/alarms, it's not as easy as everyone thinks it is. I know plenty of installers that won't do them just because they hate them, and it took me about 6 months to learn how to do them and make them nice and clean. Just my .02.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 04:59 PM
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good catch...those pics are of a malibu, but everything is wired just about the same way, give or take a few differences. these pics are to just give someone an idea of what the install would consist of/what they need to tear apart.

The DLPK is the firmware that comes standard with the XK09. This firmware will not cooperate with the 05-06 Chevrolet Cobalts, but will for the later years. I found this out by contacting XPressKits directly. The XK09 does everything that you stated the other models do, you just need to update the firmware on the module like I did.

Installing a rs/ss on a Cobalt wont be all that bad if you follow the directions that were provided. The part that confuses most people is seperating and splicing the ignition wire so that the viper system can get the signal it needs. It actually ends up being easier than doing it on an ignition that doesnt just send a signal to the BCM to start the vehicle; like our Cobalts/Malibu's do.

Making things look nice and clean isnt all that difficult either. It doesnt take an engineer to figure out how to hide wires behind plastic and ziptie things so they wont come loose; anyone who's installed an amplifier in their car knows that. And to make sure you are splicing the right wires to another the Haynes Manual contains all of the wiring diagrams that an install of a security system or a remote starter system would require.

If you installed your 5701 yourself, or helped in the process, care to share any information? Forums are for sharing ideas and helping eachother (the community) out, not just to critisize or flame on others' interests or projects at hand.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 06:45 PM
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In no way was I flaming you or whatever you decide to do. I was simply stating what I've learned over my years of installing. There are several members that have contacted me about this stuff and I have helped them out. I had an opinion so I shared it, I didn't say wow you are a complete moron and are going to botch it because you can't walk and chew gum at the same time. I just wanted to inform some other members is all.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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You took my post way to personal. It was in no way intended to aggravate you. I apologize if it did.

If you willing to help me out with any information it would be appreciated, if not, then it is what it is.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 09:15 PM
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Nah dude you're fine, I just wanted to clarify. I wasn't trying to step on your toes either. If you need any help just let me know and I'll do whatever I can
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 11:06 PM
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k cool..i guess the only thing i'm lookin to have questions with is the wiring together of the bypass to the brain of the Viper. here is a picture of the manual that says how to connect the module to the brain



the question is about the "option B" and "option A" wiring..since i have specified firmware on the XK09 i will be doing the D2D connection correct? and with that do i need to also connect the blue/red grey and green wires or will the D2D connection take care of that? i'm assuming i will need to do both and i am just gettin confused with the whole option deal....
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:35 AM
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Well unfortunately you have the wrong firmware unless you aren't doing remote start which you never really said if you were or not. All that firmware does is integrate with the locks and triggers, no pk3 bypass. The DLPKGM firmware does everything, however it only works from 07+. The firmware you need is the PLXR, which will take care of your pk3 and you just have to go wire to wire from the brain to the car for everything else, which is no big deal since it's all availble at the BCM.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 01:13 AM
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its not a problem at all actually i have the kit to change the firmware...

here is what the plxr does http://www.xpresskit.com/Compatibili...irmwareid=1274

and here is what the GM5x does http://www.xpresskit.com/Compatibili...irmwareid=1622

an email from the company said i needed the 5X for my 2005... does that change it a little?

actually....is the immobilizer bypass the thing i really only need? does the plxr also disable the factory alarm?..i do intend to add the remote start...which is why i needed the tach input thats on the 5X.....at least thats what i thought... TIA

Last edited by tyler.avis; Jul 27, 2010 at 01:13 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 01:33 AM
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great find and to correct someone its an hhr not a malibu that they are using in the pictures
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 04:52 PM
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Great to know everyone is so technichal here...no hard feelings meant, its honestly a good thing.
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 07blackss86
Well unfortunately you have the wrong firmware unless you aren't doing remote start which you never really said if you were or not. All that firmware does is integrate with the locks and triggers, no pk3 bypass. The DLPKGM firmware does everything, however it only works from 07+. The firmware you need is the PLXR, which will take care of your pk3 and you just have to go wire to wire from the brain to the car for everything else, which is no big deal since it's all availble at the BCM.
I get it now..in the directions on top it even says you need the PLXR firmware..they were wrong but probably didnt realize i was installing the r/s even though i told them it was the 5701. I just need to bypass the passlock key system. Here is the picture for the wiring diagram that I will use. since i updated the firmware of my Xk09 to the PLXR v.3.03, I wont need to connect anything to the Brain of the 5701. Let me know if this is all correct..



image is not mine, used from Xpresskit.com
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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The only things you need to hook up from that bypass is the d2d cable which gives the module power and ground, the blue/white status wire, and the violet starter wire. Everything else goes to the 6 pin plug as shown. Then like I said before you obviously have all the connections from the brain that you must hook up to the wires of the vehicle. Hope this helps a little.
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 12:29 AM
  #15  
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yes this helps a lot....thank you very much man..ill be digging into the car in a few weeks...i odnt think i have too many unanswered questions at the moment.
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 01:01 PM
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Good deal, let me know if you need anything else.
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 05:13 PM
  #17  
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thought of something at work today.... the tach wire connection... just connect it to an injector.....any details on that?
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:59 AM
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Correct, if you look at your injectors you will have one common color across all four, and then a different color in each. You want to use the off color wire and not the common one for your tach connection, use any of the injectors just make sure it's one of those wires.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 01:20 AM
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neutral saftey switch, clutch bypass?
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 01:53 AM
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What about nss/clutch bypass?
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 04:48 AM
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what wires are those?
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 06:11 PM
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The tach wire is not needed.The car stops cranking on its own once its started.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 06:55 PM
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The tach wire is also used for the remote starter to stop powering any wires in the ignition harness if the car failed to start, actually, i dont think the tach wire is even used to stop the car from cranking, because, if it is taking readings from the injectors, then soon as the engined turned at all it would be getting the fuel injectors readings
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ptrblkz24
The tach wire is not needed.The car stops cranking on its own once its started.
The new Vipers REQUIRE a tach wire for manual mode. No way around it.

Neutral safety goes to the handbrake.

As far as a clutch bypass, you need another relay. You have to use the really short remote start relay harness (the one with all of the RS negative outputs) to jump the clutch wires.

85 to +12v
86 to remote start harness: starter (-) output
30 to one wire of the clutch (tap)
87 to the other wire of the clutch (tap)
87a not used

As far as the XK module, I don't recommend D2D. To this day it is very unstable, and I have had problems with various cars. W2W is 100% and much easier to troubleshoot.

Good luck man...gimme a shout if you have any questions.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 07:39 PM
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so their is no way to stop the remote starter from starting a car in gear?
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