wiring guages & capacitors - emperor pls post
09-03-2009, 12:31 AM
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wiring guages & capacitors - emperor pls post
ok so we all know how unreliable the internet can be, so i wanted to ask people who know what they're talking about. i have a few questions about wiring a system...
1) does the size of the capacitor really make a difference or does it just depend on the manufacturer and how it release electrons? eg. .5 farad vs 1 farad vs 10 farad..
2) is it true that having too large of a guage for an amp should not affect the amp?
3) i have (2) JL W3s that i bought off a friend. online it says they're rated for 150 rms each, but i FRIED my 8 guauge wire which should be rated for 800 watts max. i upped the wire to 4 guage (fine strand). is that enough?
4) is it better to have 0 guage wire or two 4 guage wires (parallel)?
5) to keep my car mostly stock, i connected the leads of the LOC to alligator clamps. that way, i didn't have to solder to the speaker wire terminals. could this result in a loss of sound quality or a fluctuation in signal?
6) i know from experience that placement of subs can make a HUGE difference in bass output (bass is essentially just moving air). has anyone found an ideal placement for subs in the trunk? in my dd i have the subs pushed all the way against the front (taillights) of the trunk as to make the trunk itself the box. however i have a ported box. is it true that ported boxes are only for subs that are tested with them? where should the box be mounted (front/back)?
Finally, i have two comments to make that i haven't really seen in any of the other threads. first, in my car i have the trigger wired off of a PILOT 4-way relay (flat wire trigger for that) which is wired off the cigarette lighter. i believe it's actually better to do that then to wire the trigger off of a fuse. say a cop rolls up next to you and you want to chill out or your mom borrows your car for a day.... second, to those out there who complain about the bass level control in your cars with a factory H/U, here's what i do. turn the gain up on the amp to your desired max. connect your LOC to the REAR speakers and then to the amp. when the bass is too loud for you (say you switch from rock to rap or something), simply FADE to the front speakers which decreases the bass level since they are getting their feed from the rear.
Emperor please post!
1) does the size of the capacitor really make a difference or does it just depend on the manufacturer and how it release electrons? eg. .5 farad vs 1 farad vs 10 farad..
2) is it true that having too large of a guage for an amp should not affect the amp?
3) i have (2) JL W3s that i bought off a friend. online it says they're rated for 150 rms each, but i FRIED my 8 guauge wire which should be rated for 800 watts max. i upped the wire to 4 guage (fine strand). is that enough?
4) is it better to have 0 guage wire or two 4 guage wires (parallel)?
5) to keep my car mostly stock, i connected the leads of the LOC to alligator clamps. that way, i didn't have to solder to the speaker wire terminals. could this result in a loss of sound quality or a fluctuation in signal?
6) i know from experience that placement of subs can make a HUGE difference in bass output (bass is essentially just moving air). has anyone found an ideal placement for subs in the trunk? in my dd i have the subs pushed all the way against the front (taillights) of the trunk as to make the trunk itself the box. however i have a ported box. is it true that ported boxes are only for subs that are tested with them? where should the box be mounted (front/back)?
Finally, i have two comments to make that i haven't really seen in any of the other threads. first, in my car i have the trigger wired off of a PILOT 4-way relay (flat wire trigger for that) which is wired off the cigarette lighter. i believe it's actually better to do that then to wire the trigger off of a fuse. say a cop rolls up next to you and you want to chill out or your mom borrows your car for a day.... second, to those out there who complain about the bass level control in your cars with a factory H/U, here's what i do. turn the gain up on the amp to your desired max. connect your LOC to the REAR speakers and then to the amp. when the bass is too loud for you (say you switch from rock to rap or something), simply FADE to the front speakers which decreases the bass level since they are getting their feed from the rear.
Emperor please post!
09-03-2009, 04:48 PM
#2
ok so we all know how unreliable the internet can be, so i wanted to ask people who know what they're talking about. I have a few questions about wiring a system...
1) does the size of the capacitor really make a difference or does it just depend on the manufacturer and how it release electrons? Eg. .5 farad vs 1 farad vs 10 farad..
the higher the farad, the more storage capacity it has
2) is it true that having too large of a guage for an amp should not affect the amp?
bigger is better, incase you didnt know the lower the number the bigger the wire (0g)
3) i have (2) jl w3s that i bought off a friend. Online it says they're rated for 150 rms each, but i fried my 8 guauge wire which should be rated for 800 watts max. I upped the wire to 4 guage (fine strand). Is that enough?
yea 4g is good for up to 900-1000rms
4) is it better to have 0 guage wire or two 4 guage wires (parallel)?
idk how you would get 2 4 gauge wires in to one terminal, so 0g would be better
5) to keep my car mostly stock, i connected the leads of the loc to alligator clamps. That way, i didn't have to solder to the speaker wire terminals. Could this result in a loss of sound quality or a fluctuation in signal?
sorry i have no idea
6) i know from experience that placement of subs can make a huge difference in bass output (bass is essentially just moving air). Has anyone found an ideal placement for subs in the trunk? In my dd i have the subs pushed all the way against the front (taillights) of the trunk as to make the trunk itself the box. However i have a ported box. Is it true that ported boxes are only for subs that are tested with them? Where should the box be mounted (front/back)?
for spl you should put it as far back (pushing up against passanger seat) and aim them towards the back of the trunk
finally, i have two comments to make that i haven't really seen in any of the other threads. First, in my car i have the trigger wired off of a pilot 4-way relay (flat wire trigger for that) which is wired off the cigarette lighter. I believe it's actually better to do that then to wire the trigger off of a fuse. Say a cop rolls up next to you and you want to chill out or your mom borrows your car for a day.... Second, to those out there who complain about the bass level control in your cars with a factory h/u, here's what i do. Turn the gain up on the amp to your desired max. Connect your loc to the rear speakers and then to the amp. When the bass is too loud for you (say you switch from rock to rap or something), simply fade to the front speakers which decreases the bass level since they are getting their feed from the rear.
Emperor please post!
1) does the size of the capacitor really make a difference or does it just depend on the manufacturer and how it release electrons? Eg. .5 farad vs 1 farad vs 10 farad..
the higher the farad, the more storage capacity it has
2) is it true that having too large of a guage for an amp should not affect the amp?
bigger is better, incase you didnt know the lower the number the bigger the wire (0g)
3) i have (2) jl w3s that i bought off a friend. Online it says they're rated for 150 rms each, but i fried my 8 guauge wire which should be rated for 800 watts max. I upped the wire to 4 guage (fine strand). Is that enough?
yea 4g is good for up to 900-1000rms
4) is it better to have 0 guage wire or two 4 guage wires (parallel)?
idk how you would get 2 4 gauge wires in to one terminal, so 0g would be better
5) to keep my car mostly stock, i connected the leads of the loc to alligator clamps. That way, i didn't have to solder to the speaker wire terminals. Could this result in a loss of sound quality or a fluctuation in signal?
sorry i have no idea
6) i know from experience that placement of subs can make a huge difference in bass output (bass is essentially just moving air). Has anyone found an ideal placement for subs in the trunk? In my dd i have the subs pushed all the way against the front (taillights) of the trunk as to make the trunk itself the box. However i have a ported box. Is it true that ported boxes are only for subs that are tested with them? Where should the box be mounted (front/back)?
for spl you should put it as far back (pushing up against passanger seat) and aim them towards the back of the trunk
finally, i have two comments to make that i haven't really seen in any of the other threads. First, in my car i have the trigger wired off of a pilot 4-way relay (flat wire trigger for that) which is wired off the cigarette lighter. I believe it's actually better to do that then to wire the trigger off of a fuse. Say a cop rolls up next to you and you want to chill out or your mom borrows your car for a day.... Second, to those out there who complain about the bass level control in your cars with a factory h/u, here's what i do. Turn the gain up on the amp to your desired max. Connect your loc to the rear speakers and then to the amp. When the bass is too loud for you (say you switch from rock to rap or something), simply fade to the front speakers which decreases the bass level since they are getting their feed from the rear.
Emperor please post!
09-04-2009, 09:08 AM
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thanks for getting back to me about all this.
1) the higher the farad, the more storage capacity it has
-right, but i hear people have better luck with 1 farad RF capacitors rather than a 10F Tsunami..
4) idk how you would get 2 4 gauge wires in to one terminal, so 0g would be better
-put spade connectors on the ends, tough the spades back to back and push them in.
6) for spl you should put it as far back (pushing up against passanger seat) and aim them towards the back of the trunk
-i heard to put it at the end of the trunk so that the bass moves up and around the box making the trunk itself the box. if you have it against the back seat it fights its own sound output, or something.
1) the higher the farad, the more storage capacity it has
-right, but i hear people have better luck with 1 farad RF capacitors rather than a 10F Tsunami..
4) idk how you would get 2 4 gauge wires in to one terminal, so 0g would be better
-put spade connectors on the ends, tough the spades back to back and push them in.
6) for spl you should put it as far back (pushing up against passanger seat) and aim them towards the back of the trunk
-i heard to put it at the end of the trunk so that the bass moves up and around the box making the trunk itself the box. if you have it against the back seat it fights its own sound output, or something.
09-04-2009, 09:04 PM
#4
thanks for getting back to me about all this.
1) the higher the farad, the more storage capacity it has
-right, but i hear people have better luck with 1 farad RF capacitors rather than a 10F Tsunami..
4) idk how you would get 2 4 gauge wires in to one terminal, so 0g would be better
-put spade connectors on the ends, tough the spades back to back and push them in.
6) for spl you should put it as far back (pushing up against passanger seat) and aim them towards the back of the trunk
-i heard to put it at the end of the trunk so that the bass moves up and around the box making the trunk itself the box. if you have it against the back seat it fights its own sound output, or something.
1) the higher the farad, the more storage capacity it has
-right, but i hear people have better luck with 1 farad RF capacitors rather than a 10F Tsunami..
4) idk how you would get 2 4 gauge wires in to one terminal, so 0g would be better
-put spade connectors on the ends, tough the spades back to back and push them in.
6) for spl you should put it as far back (pushing up against passanger seat) and aim them towards the back of the trunk
-i heard to put it at the end of the trunk so that the bass moves up and around the box making the trunk itself the box. if you have it against the back seat it fights its own sound output, or something.
2. nah **** that, just put the wire straight in the terminal, you should be good with 4g unless your doing 1k+ watts.
3. the reason rear facing is better is because the bass bounces off the back of the trunk and lands on you, if you have it facing the front of the car, the bass waves will land like 5-10 feet infront of you...if you look online im sure you can get a much nicer explanation on why rear firing is best.
09-07-2009, 09:52 PM
#8
sorry i missed this but looks like brick got it mainly taken care of.
x2 on the battery part.
regarding the cap ive taken apart a 10f lanzar cap and it had less capacitance then the caps is brickloafs amp (which isnt 10f) any of those bs caps are just that. flashing lights and false hope
x2 on the battery part.
regarding the cap ive taken apart a 10f lanzar cap and it had less capacitance then the caps is brickloafs amp (which isnt 10f) any of those bs caps are just that. flashing lights and false hope
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