Wiring my amp
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From: Parrish, FL
Ive tried hooking it up to my sub and my amp...but I was wiring these for my amp. And yes ground is more then 3ft...its like 10...just as long as the power, my sub ground and power are even longer and they work fine...
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From: Parrish, FL
..thats not alot of options..where would someone normally ground their amp then...can't be to top of trunk...open it up thats more then 3 feet...can't be right below it...thats the hole for the spare tire nothing to go to...right side is more then 3 feet...left side thats through the side of the car...
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From: Parrish, FL
umm...that didn't make sense to me...I have +12 and power and remote and nothing at ground...so I have what you say...but then you say if I only have power at remote and power...then I have an issue...didn't you just contradict yourself...
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From: Calgary, Alberta
when you have the amp turned off their should be power at the 12v and nothing at the ground and remote. when the amp is turned on you should have power to the remote and 12v +. and you will notice that things will work better. and basically just find a screw and if there is paint under the screw scratch it off a little bit to have a metal to metal contact. any good installer will not have the ground wire more then 3 feet.
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Senior Member
Joined: 07-22-08
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From: Parrish, FL
when you have the amp turned off their should be power at the 12v and nothing at the ground and remote. when the amp is turned on you should have power to the remote and 12v +. and you will notice that things will work better. and basically just find a screw and if there is paint under the screw scratch it off a little bit to have a metal to metal contact. any good installer will not have the ground wire more then 3 feet.
Ok, I just kinda skimmed through this thread but I wanted to add/ask some things. First off outtamymind is correct when he is telling you about the length of the ground, the shorter the better, but never more than 36" this is a very important step that there is no getting around, you should place your amps according tio the closest ground, not where ever then just run a longer wire, it don't work like that. If your looking for another place for a ground try one of the bolts that hold the antenna in on the passenger side near the back. Also each device (amp) you have back there should have its own ground, in this case sharring is not the best idea.
The wire kit you got that does not work, does it have a fuse in it, if not there should be a fuse placed 6inches away from the battery on ever power wire that you run from the battery. If it does have a fuse in it, is the fuse in there? Is it still in tact, meaning have you blown the fuse? Use the multi meter to test, if you have power at the begining of the wire but not at the end then chances are you have a blown fuse
The multi meter your using, when you check for power what are you using as a ground? Put the black lead from the meter to the bolt beside the battery, and then the red lead to whatever you want to test for power, dont use the ground terminal on the amp. Set the meter to DCV - 20. If you take the meter and set it to the audiable test tone ( the one that beeps) you can test for a good ground, with it on this setting place one lead on the bolt beside the battery and probe potential spots that you think are a good ground, if the meter beeps then you have found one, this means there is no resistance between the battery ground and the spot you have chosen, it helps to do this to avoid ground loops
BTW-Outtamymind-My mom says I'm special too
The wire kit you got that does not work, does it have a fuse in it, if not there should be a fuse placed 6inches away from the battery on ever power wire that you run from the battery. If it does have a fuse in it, is the fuse in there? Is it still in tact, meaning have you blown the fuse? Use the multi meter to test, if you have power at the begining of the wire but not at the end then chances are you have a blown fuse
The multi meter your using, when you check for power what are you using as a ground? Put the black lead from the meter to the bolt beside the battery, and then the red lead to whatever you want to test for power, dont use the ground terminal on the amp. Set the meter to DCV - 20. If you take the meter and set it to the audiable test tone ( the one that beeps) you can test for a good ground, with it on this setting place one lead on the bolt beside the battery and probe potential spots that you think are a good ground, if the meter beeps then you have found one, this means there is no resistance between the battery ground and the spot you have chosen, it helps to do this to avoid ground loops
BTW-Outtamymind-My mom says I'm special too
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Joined: 02-21-07
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Ok, I just kinda skimmed through this thread but I wanted to add/ask some things. First off outtamymind is correct when he is telling you about the length of the ground, the shorter the better, but never more than 36" this is a very important step that there is no getting around, you should place your amps according tio the closest ground, not where ever then just run a longer wire, it don't work like that. If your looking for another place for a ground try one of the bolts that hold the antenna in on the passenger side near the back. Also each device (amp) you have back there should have its own ground, in this case sharring is not the best idea.
The wire kit you got that does not work, does it have a fuse in it, if not there should be a fuse placed 6inches away from the battery on ever power wire that you run from the battery. If it does have a fuse in it, is the fuse in there? Is it still in tact, meaning have you blown the fuse? Use the multi meter to test, if you have power at the begining of the wire but not at the end then chances are you have a blown fuse
The multi meter your using, when you check for power what are you using as a ground? Put the black lead from the meter to the bolt beside the battery, and then the red lead to whatever you want to test for power, dont use the ground terminal on the amp. Set the meter to DCV - 20. If you take the meter and set it to the audiable test tone ( the one that beeps) you can test for a good ground, with it on this setting place one lead on the bolt beside the battery and probe potential spots that you think are a good ground, if the meter beeps then you have found one, this means there is no resistance between the battery ground and the spot you have chosen, it helps to do this to avoid ground loops
BTW-Outtamymind-My mom says I'm special too
The wire kit you got that does not work, does it have a fuse in it, if not there should be a fuse placed 6inches away from the battery on ever power wire that you run from the battery. If it does have a fuse in it, is the fuse in there? Is it still in tact, meaning have you blown the fuse? Use the multi meter to test, if you have power at the begining of the wire but not at the end then chances are you have a blown fuse
The multi meter your using, when you check for power what are you using as a ground? Put the black lead from the meter to the bolt beside the battery, and then the red lead to whatever you want to test for power, dont use the ground terminal on the amp. Set the meter to DCV - 20. If you take the meter and set it to the audiable test tone ( the one that beeps) you can test for a good ground, with it on this setting place one lead on the bolt beside the battery and probe potential spots that you think are a good ground, if the meter beeps then you have found one, this means there is no resistance between the battery ground and the spot you have chosen, it helps to do this to avoid ground loops
BTW-Outtamymind-My mom says I'm special too
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 07-22-08
Posts: 5,621
Likes: 0
From: Parrish, FL
Ok, I just kinda skimmed through this thread but I wanted to add/ask some things. First off outtamymind is correct when he is telling you about the length of the ground, the shorter the better, but never more than 36" this is a very important step that there is no getting around, you should place your amps according tio the closest ground, not where ever then just run a longer wire, it don't work like that. If your looking for another place for a ground try one of the bolts that hold the antenna in on the passenger side near the back. Also each device (amp) you have back there should have its own ground, in this case sharring is not the best idea.
The wire kit you got that does not work, does it have a fuse in it, if not there should be a fuse placed 6inches away from the battery on ever power wire that you run from the battery. If it does have a fuse in it, is the fuse in there? Is it still in tact, meaning have you blown the fuse? Use the multi meter to test, if you have power at the begining of the wire but not at the end then chances are you have a blown fuse
The multi meter your using, when you check for power what are you using as a ground? Put the black lead from the meter to the bolt beside the battery, and then the red lead to whatever you want to test for power, dont use the ground terminal on the amp. Set the meter to DCV - 20. If you take the meter and set it to the audiable test tone ( the one that beeps) you can test for a good ground, with it on this setting place one lead on the bolt beside the battery and probe potential spots that you think are a good ground, if the meter beeps then you have found one, this means there is no resistance between the battery ground and the spot you have chosen, it helps to do this to avoid ground loops
BTW-Outtamymind-My mom says I'm special too
The wire kit you got that does not work, does it have a fuse in it, if not there should be a fuse placed 6inches away from the battery on ever power wire that you run from the battery. If it does have a fuse in it, is the fuse in there? Is it still in tact, meaning have you blown the fuse? Use the multi meter to test, if you have power at the begining of the wire but not at the end then chances are you have a blown fuse
The multi meter your using, when you check for power what are you using as a ground? Put the black lead from the meter to the bolt beside the battery, and then the red lead to whatever you want to test for power, dont use the ground terminal on the amp. Set the meter to DCV - 20. If you take the meter and set it to the audiable test tone ( the one that beeps) you can test for a good ground, with it on this setting place one lead on the bolt beside the battery and probe potential spots that you think are a good ground, if the meter beeps then you have found one, this means there is no resistance between the battery ground and the spot you have chosen, it helps to do this to avoid ground loops
BTW-Outtamymind-My mom says I'm special too
So I have voltage between +12V and ground and between Remote and ground...however the amp still wont kick on...
edit: Passenger side just kicked on so now im going back to check to make sure I didn't pull any wires out..
You have to put that fuse back in. If your still reading this your wasting time, it don't matter if the amp has one there will still be power in the wire up to the amp and if the wire comes loose or splits, well an open power line in a metal box, the terms arc weld and smoke show come to mind, if you don't have a fuse then disable the hole thing until you get one,
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