BPV/BOV for the BNR GT2871?
01-03-2015, 01:51 PM
#3
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What is the significance mounting it towards the turbo? How would I be able to relocate the maf? I need to find some pictures on this. So relocating the maf is better than recirculating the BOV? Whats the best way?
01-03-2015, 02:01 PM
#4
Better discharge point.
Recirculating is just as hard but is better for the car. you need the tial qr for recircukating and you would need to have the flange welded onto the injen pipe for the bov , then weld a bung on the intake and run a hose. The upside is you keep your air system closed and its easier to run for and you don't need to extend wires or recalibrate the maf.
The other way would be venting to atmosphere which requires relocating the maf to the cold side pipe, exntending wires tuning and all that and it causes an open loop system which isn't bad. Just a different style.
Recirculating is just as hard but is better for the car. you need the tial qr for recircukating and you would need to have the flange welded onto the injen pipe for the bov , then weld a bung on the intake and run a hose. The upside is you keep your air system closed and its easier to run for and you don't need to extend wires or recalibrate the maf.
The other way would be venting to atmosphere which requires relocating the maf to the cold side pipe, exntending wires tuning and all that and it causes an open loop system which isn't bad. Just a different style.
01-03-2015, 04:15 PM
#6
K04+we got to 375whp on 93 with full bolt ons and good tuning. If you go that route stick with the forge or factory bpv
.. they are made by precision turbo. I don't like the k04r. Slow spoiling and the small housing will choke it off at 6000 roughly. If you want 400 go with a wr2 wr3 or zfr. If you go this route stick with the forge or factory bpv.
If you go with the bnr or precision or bullseye kits you will need a bov
.. they are made by precision turbo. I don't like the k04r. Slow spoiling and the small housing will choke it off at 6000 roughly. If you want 400 go with a wr2 wr3 or zfr. If you go this route stick with the forge or factory bpv.
If you go with the bnr or precision or bullseye kits you will need a bov
01-03-2015, 06:14 PM
#7
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Yea the wr2 sounds to be the best choice, however it is expensive compared to BNR. With the wr2 there is less fabrication on installing the bov and recirculating the maf which is something I have no idea what to do lol.
01-04-2015, 11:39 AM
#8
if it was me get the wr2 or zfr and call it a day. faster spooling turbo that is a direct bolt on. buy our coupler that fits the zfr as well so they dont have to weld on the extension(borg warner doesnt seem to like that).
the bnr isnt a bad turbo by all means but but i like the zfr wr2 wr3 more. better package deal for the price in my opinion
the bnr isnt a bad turbo by all means but but i like the zfr wr2 wr3 more. better package deal for the price in my opinion
01-05-2015, 09:35 AM
#12
Your car lasting all depends on a few things...... You being on top of your maintenance and really good tuning.
We usually see 380whp 400ish as a good reliable point. Meaning you should not need internals. However anythj g passed 6500 i recommend valve springs.
I can't tell you any car will last for sure as no 2 cars are alike but I ran mine making well over 430whp with destroying a so gle thing before a truck bit me. I always tell guys though to have Money set aside for things because any time you add power you need to be ready for anything. Wear and tear and all that good stuff. It's the nature of modifying a car
We usually see 380whp 400ish as a good reliable point. Meaning you should not need internals. However anythj g passed 6500 i recommend valve springs.
I can't tell you any car will last for sure as no 2 cars are alike but I ran mine making well over 430whp with destroying a so gle thing before a truck bit me. I always tell guys though to have Money set aside for things because any time you add power you need to be ready for anything. Wear and tear and all that good stuff. It's the nature of modifying a car
01-05-2015, 05:34 PM
#17
OP I'm bout to roll over 100k miles with my SS with a ZFR.
at 60k Miles I tuned it to 320 whp 420 wtq.
at 90k miles I ran E85, making 344 whp 457 ft lbs
at 93k miles I put the ZFR on.
I am on stock transmission, stock Clutch and stock motor.
Your car is a baby at 27k miles. Keep up on maintenance and it will last forever
I have an HKS BOV welded to my Injen pipe. I relocated my MAF cause it was throwing a code, p0101 and causing limp mode.
at 60k Miles I tuned it to 320 whp 420 wtq.
at 90k miles I ran E85, making 344 whp 457 ft lbs
at 93k miles I put the ZFR on.
I am on stock transmission, stock Clutch and stock motor.
Your car is a baby at 27k miles. Keep up on maintenance and it will last forever
I have an HKS BOV welded to my Injen pipe. I relocated my MAF cause it was throwing a code, p0101 and causing limp mode.
01-05-2015, 06:50 PM
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Awesome thanks for the comment. I just want to be careful with it. I want to be around 400+ I feel getting the springs would make me feel more secure. But if i don't need them for sure, I wont spend 300 bucks. I keep maintained oil every 4-5k miles with the BG additive from GM.
01-05-2015, 09:58 PM
#20
you should do springs...... I build these cars for a living. trust me.
also you should be on top of your oil at 3000. the gm manual is bs.. with the way these things get build up on the intake valves changing your oil frequently isn't going to hurt anything. especially when your abusing it more at 400.
also you should be on top of your oil at 3000. the gm manual is bs.. with the way these things get build up on the intake valves changing your oil frequently isn't going to hurt anything. especially when your abusing it more at 400.
01-06-2015, 12:42 AM
#24
I had 442whp on stock internals... no valve springs either on 93 back in early 09 
no fueling tables yet no boost control tables either. made it work some how
his numbers are good though. no doubt.
the guys that complain about our springs not being duals... well I haven't honestly really seen the need for it. with some testing we have done we can adjust the seat pressure and get these to rev out to 9k if we wanted. when I see the street cars start revving out that far we might release a that version but even the midget cars are running to 8500 with out single springs in there..... not a single failure.
no fueling tables yet no boost control tables either. made it work some how his numbers are good though. no doubt.
the guys that complain about our springs not being duals... well I haven't honestly really seen the need for it. with some testing we have done we can adjust the seat pressure and get these to rev out to 9k if we wanted. when I see the street cars start revving out that far we might release a that version but even the midget cars are running to 8500 with out single springs in there..... not a single failure.
01-06-2015, 04:45 AM
#25
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Your choice for a tuner is also very important. My car made a hair over 400whp on 93 on a BNR2871 and cyl1 and cyl4 both had the Ringlands blow out after a while. A good tune will make or break it to be honest as well as your supporting mods.