Leatherwood

Thanks Man

roadrage06

OTTP FTW!!!!

that is all.

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

im gonna say what no one else has so far.
do not buy the CA heat exchanger!
its very highly priced, and it isnt that large. If you want an upgraded heat exchanger, get the ZZP one, the OTTP one, or one of the CX Racing ones. They are all cheaper, and bigger

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

lmao I have heard it all.

One step lower injectors from 60s are 42s.
and a GM dual pass does not add hp. it maintains any you have by prevention of heat soaking

SS_T-Roy

haven't had any problems yet....

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

i recommend the OTTP h/e highest volume of all h/e's available

ShortStack

For what its worth..

all these people saying "kaboom" with 42s on a 2.8 have NO idea what they are talking about.

a 2.6 overspins the blower out of its efficiency.. meaning its going to make alot of extra heat..

Cool this, youll be fine.. your blower just doesnt "blow up"...

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

spinningover its effciency drains the life out of it, its like taking a little turbo and putting it on a bigger engine, sure it will boost, sure its going to overspin, yeah it wont blow up physically, but something will snap and break from constant phsycial heat that builds up inside, remember, there are bearign inside the blower, there is alot of things in there that can over heat and break...not just the air that goes thru it

ShortStack

It will absolutly kill the life span..

but people think that you run a 2.6 or 42s and a 2.8 and your engine just blows up or you break down in 5 min... Its just silly...

ChrisandAmanda

I have a question...If the stock HE is leaking and instead of buying the stock one for like 800 bucks can i buy a aftermarket one that is front mounted and just move all pipes over to it or do i need the stock one?

07MetallicSC

iTrader: (16)

A cryo setup really wont be efficient on a air/water setup

you do not need the stock one, you can get an aftermarket one and move them over.

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

lulz at response to a 1 year old question

Tunerfreak91

I was checking out the CX heat exchanger on Cobalt Addiction the other day and saw that they advertised a 2.79" pulley "proven to run great on the GM stage 2 reflash as it is very rich fuel wise to start with and this will bring you right into the correct AFR."

I'm a natural skeptic, what are thoughts?

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

band-aid ish to power needs. A real tune is best, with60# injecotrs being ideal, thoughi suppose you can run it without

Tunerfreak91

Ya I dont think its good to run anything below a 2.9 on 42lb injectors, much less on the GM stage 2 tune.

robby_ss

Uhm i have a 2006 chevy cobalt SS/SC and my coolant rises to 212 degress uhm do i need a new thermo ? did anyone else had this problem it happens when im in traffic or something it starts rising but then when i turn on my a/c it starts going down but then my engine starts making noises like rattaling does anyone know ? or can help me plz?

Edubs

The big question here is what 42lb/hr injectors? The GMS2 injectors or the Lucas 42.5lb/hr injectors?

I ran a 2.79" and the Lucas 42.5's for a good amount of time with no issues. The Lucas injectors have a lot more room in them than the Stg 2 42's.

The big issue here is heat, which he is addressing. I would recommend the OTTP H/E and maybe look into Meth...

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

they actually only have .5lbs/hr more room...

Edubs

If you say so...

CLCHNGO

that happens to everyone
if u pay attention the cooling fan will turn on in the engine bay and cool it about 20-25 degrees and then shut off

Legion

A thermostat will simply change when the engine get's water flow, if you allow water to flow to early it can cause alot of concerns like warping, cracking, and such, coming in to late also causes heat related issues with sudden cool water surges. This same reason is why you can cool the Intercooler with a CO2 Cooler, but it's generally not a good idea to do that same thing to the radiator.

Your car will generally speaking make more heat with the AC on, this is because the Refrig in the AC unit will collect heat and require cooldown, you'll notice usually condensation on the ground when you park the car after few mins, this is because the AC strips heat from the air and often makes alittle amount of water in the air condense enough to start collecting. This makes usually a ting or clank clank like sound.

A true intercooler (an Heat Exchanger which are essentially the same) cools boosted air so that you may run lower temp air. This allows you to run more, however as you make more and more boost the heat rises, and sadly with a Air-Water-Air Intercooler our cars must use, versus the Turbo's which can Run Air-Air, our intercoolers are alot less effective after 5 mins or so, however our initial output is immensely sought after by high output runners. Our intercooler is a plate which intercepts heat like a cool rod over hot airflow, it's usually mounted between the supercharger and the engine, cool water flows thru the rods, and then heat get's stripped out and then flows down to be cooled by the intercooler (for us a heat exchanger, really a water cooler). This is the three stage interaction, the air of boost that is hot meets cool water which meets the cool air of the outside. Advantages are there is a cooling factor even at idle, where air-air is not available. You cannot air-air cool a positive displacement supercharger which is the Roots Eaton, and more screw like TVS is more of a Twin Screw. A Twin Screw is one of the few superchargers that can make power like a Turbo, without the loss of on demand. You'll see more power come out in percentages than solid numbers like with exhaust, intake upgrades. Every upgrade will help make even more power, for reference view "kennebell.net" there some good points there, intercooler evaluation is wrong though, it does make power even if all it does is cool boost 10 degrees of F is 1hp gain.

I would say if you need the power, get a CO2 sprayer on it,
I highly discourage duel intercoolers in front of each other because the rear intercooler is just getting heat wash from the front, making it useless, kinda like the lower part of our radiators, set them aside like a 3000GT VR-4 and it might work, but one large center front mount is great for it...
A proper tuned car can run rich and make great power with a great ignition system behind it,

The Four Primary factors that make a good Supercharged system are this,

1) Sufficient Output of Supercharger to maintain boost at high rpm, this however doesn't mean supercharger's like ours do not lose alittle boost because engine eats it faster than it can be made.

2) Heat goes by by with the Intercooler, this allows you to run lower octane with bigger boost if you have good sized intercooler, power can be made with a intercooler, the biggest issue is it will cost money, and if slightly fucked up can cost you more power than it's worth, leaks are bad, and heat not dissipating is even more bad.

3) When you assemble your fuel system it must be efficient, clean, and alittle more over what you need to ensure your engine is not in demand of fuel. Fuel Ironicly also cools the inside of the motor prior to ignition. Building to exactly what you need is stupid, because if anything fails your already in world hurt, fuel is what keeps the engine from frying rods, fuel pressure is a good thing to watch.

4) As boost get's higher your going to need a spark that isn't snuffed out. If your spark is big and ignites alot of the injected fuel, you will have no problem making power.

Unlike Turbo's we do not see 1600degrees on high boost setups, I believe that with our extreme heat advantage you can get around the lack of power our belts take up. Power immediately gives us an edge lower, you cannot race on high rpms alone.

And Turbo's take power too, until that turbine is spun enough there is a resistance in the exhaust, which is far worse than the small amount the supercharger saps. Stop whining it's bad in different ways either way. But a supercharger will be useful on the street, and can be very reliable, very few parts are not integrated into the core unit.

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

lotta misinformation in there....but a lot of good info too.

Jn2

iTrader: (1)

u actually read it :p i sorta skimmed it...

HunterKiller89

iTrader: (1)

lol, i was bored. IMO its interesting reading long posts like that solely to check the quality of the post

tanelk

iTrader: (1)

ok so i got a question, i was looking at the zz performance heat exchanger, this one http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=895&catid=188
im stock except for a cai, so if i buy this it would free up some hp?