Hahn 20g/zfr
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Hahn 20g/zfr
Come Tax return time I'll be getting one of the 2 just depends on how much I get. Anyways I won't be getting the full kit I already have injen charge pipes and k&n SRI.. My question is do I need a bigger IC in order to run either of these? Or can the stock IC handle them? I wanna stay around 400whp and will be getter a bigger IC eventually.
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ZZPerformance - LNF Front Mount Intercooler #ZZ-LNFFMIC
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ZZP? if you go 20g prepare to wait a minute for your turbo to spool, ive seen a few members on here ditch the 20g..especially after getting beat by tuned LNF's.
ZZPerformance - LNF Front Mount Intercooler #ZZ-LNFFMIC
ZZPerformance - LNF Front Mount Intercooler #ZZ-LNFFMIC
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Spool depends on tune and leaks. I got mine down to 3300-3400 I believe It was at before I changed my turbo again. It also did 400whp on 90 octane (but a unsafe timing) no ramp, and it was great..
In aspects of which is best, the Efr is. But remember a earlier spool is more strenuous on the internals. So I suggest a ramp with the Efr. The Efr will also push more airflow out then the 20g
In aspects of which is best, the Efr is. But remember a earlier spool is more strenuous on the internals. So I suggest a ramp with the Efr. The Efr will also push more airflow out then the 20g
Last edited by Chevycobaltss3; 12-18-2012 at 10:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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The spool is not as bad as people make it out too be. Honestly the better tuner you have the more you will get out of it. For me personally I don't want 400HP on the trans that spikes like stock. You are just waiting for ur trans to go boom. So for me, I would rather wait 300-400 RPM's more and not have to replace a trans...
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Spool depends on tune and leaks. I got mine down to 3300-3400 I believe It was at before I changed my turbo again. It also did 400whp on 90 octane (but a unsafe timing) no ramp, and it was great..
In aspects of which is best, the Efr is. But remember a earlier spool is more strenuous on the internals. So I suggest a ramp with the Efr. The Efr will also push more airflow out then the 20g
In aspects of which is best, the Efr is. But remember a earlier spool is more strenuous on the internals. So I suggest a ramp with the Efr. The Efr will also push more airflow out then the 20g
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The spool is not as bad as people make it out too be. Honestly the better tuner you have the more you will get out of it. For me personally I don't want 400HP on the trans that spikes like stock. You are just waiting for ur trans to go boom. So for me, I would rather wait 300-400 RPM's more and not have to replace a trans...
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Haha yea it's a lot to take in. There is a TON of reading that you can do on here. There are alot of knowledgable people on this site who are able to give great insight. You will find alot of talk about the ZFR cuz people are quick to buy it (being a ZZP product)..Won't see much on the WR-2 or WR-3...ZZP and Performance are both great companies and you will be happy with whatever you choose. I actually have ZZP charge-piping and love it. Just make sure you get exactly what you want, don't settle!
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I just feel the EFR is a better turbo all around...direct bolt on with little work thats needed to be done. OP its up to you, I know someone personally whos using the 20g and is happy with it. Just depends on what you want and what you wanna spend.
NVM kdubs summed it up. lol
NVM kdubs summed it up. lol
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My opinion isn't biased ( I didn't see you posted)
Here is the thing, people want 400whp. Do they understand 400wjp is the point of when the ringlands seem to fail? Because of the rings them self?
The 20g flows 47 lbs per min capable of 450chp within efficiency which is roughly 420-430 most no octane adder.
Bnr 2871 is similar but will fall on its face top end
Efr 6758, hoping they have a good rated wastegate it'll push out 450chp within efficiency no fuel adders which is the same as the 20g
The wr3 is a good route but not worth the $ to most because they want spool and so on.
If people would understand a later spool is safer then they'll look at the wr3 as a good source and prob save more money.
I myself recommend precision turbos often... Literally..
Here is the thing, people want 400whp. Do they understand 400wjp is the point of when the ringlands seem to fail? Because of the rings them self?
The 20g flows 47 lbs per min capable of 450chp within efficiency which is roughly 420-430 most no octane adder.
Bnr 2871 is similar but will fall on its face top end
Efr 6758, hoping they have a good rated wastegate it'll push out 450chp within efficiency no fuel adders which is the same as the 20g
The wr3 is a good route but not worth the $ to most because they want spool and so on.
If people would understand a later spool is safer then they'll look at the wr3 as a good source and prob save more money.
I myself recommend precision turbos often... Literally..
I'm not questioning your opinion, but I do wonder why you say EFR is the best? How do the Precision turbo's not compare? From what I have been reading the WR-3 is a larger bolt on turbo that for most people will make better numbers. I know the spool is a little slower, but like I said in my other post, that is all preference in the driver and what you use the car for...
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My opinion isn't biased ( I didn't see you posted)
Here is the thing, people want 400whp. Do they understand 400wjp is the point of when the ringlands seem to fail? Because of the rings them self?
The 20g flows 47 lbs per min capable of 450chp within efficiency which is roughly 420-430 most no octane adder.
Bnr 2871 is similar but will fall on its face top end
Efr 6758, hoping they have a good rated wastegate it'll push out 450chp within efficiency no fuel adders which is the same as the 20g
The wr3 is a good route but not worth the $ to most because they want spool and so on.
If people would understand a later spool is safer then they'll look at the wr3 as a good source and prob save more money.
I myself recommend precision turbos often... Literally..
Here is the thing, people want 400whp. Do they understand 400wjp is the point of when the ringlands seem to fail? Because of the rings them self?
The 20g flows 47 lbs per min capable of 450chp within efficiency which is roughly 420-430 most no octane adder.
Bnr 2871 is similar but will fall on its face top end
Efr 6758, hoping they have a good rated wastegate it'll push out 450chp within efficiency no fuel adders which is the same as the 20g
The wr3 is a good route but not worth the $ to most because they want spool and so on.
If people would understand a later spool is safer then they'll look at the wr3 as a good source and prob save more money.
I myself recommend precision turbos often... Literally..
Me and you have talked alot so you know quite a bit about me. For me personally I would not want 430-450 quick spike on the stock trans. You are just asking for ur **** to go boom. I do understand why people want that tho so it goes both ways. To me preserving the trans and the added cost of that is worth spending the extra cash for a turbo like the WR-3
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My opinion isn't biased ( I didn't see you posted)
Here is the thing, people want 400whp. Do they understand 400wjp is the point of when the ringlands seem to fail? Because of the rings them self?
The 20g flows 47 lbs per min capable of 450chp within efficiency which is roughly 420-430 most no octane adder.
Bnr 2871 is similar but will fall on its face top end
Efr 6758, hoping they have a good rated wastegate it'll push out 450chp within efficiency no fuel adders which is the same as the 20g
The wr3 is a good route but not worth the $ to most because they want spool and so on.
If people would understand a later spool is safer then they'll look at the wr3 as a good source and prob save more money.
I myself recommend precision turbos often... Literally..
Here is the thing, people want 400whp. Do they understand 400wjp is the point of when the ringlands seem to fail? Because of the rings them self?
The 20g flows 47 lbs per min capable of 450chp within efficiency which is roughly 420-430 most no octane adder.
Bnr 2871 is similar but will fall on its face top end
Efr 6758, hoping they have a good rated wastegate it'll push out 450chp within efficiency no fuel adders which is the same as the 20g
The wr3 is a good route but not worth the $ to most because they want spool and so on.
If people would understand a later spool is safer then they'll look at the wr3 as a good source and prob save more money.
I myself recommend precision turbos often... Literally..
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Honestly from what I have read 400WHP would not be pushing it on many big turbos. When we were tuning/dyno'ing the WR-3 we were at 400/415 on 93 with minimal timing and about 23.5#'s of boost. I would say from a tuning standpoint that is a pretty safe point..I am pretty sure that the ZFR is capable of about the same numbers, maybe a little lower, but close.
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Took my next question right out of my mouth.
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Honestly from what I have read 400WHP would not be pushing it on many big turbos. When we were tuning/dyno'ing the WR-3 we were at 400/415 on 93 with minimal timing and about 23.5#'s of boost. I would say from a tuning standpoint that is a pretty safe point..I am pretty sure that the ZFR is capable of about the same numbers, maybe a little lower, but close.
Glad I could help!
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There are alot of guys who are the the ~400 mark and are safe. Honestly all depends on how you treat your car. If you don't beat the **** out of it, it will last longer. My motor is fully built so me being at the 400 mark is very conservative. I will go e47 and meth in the spring for numbers, but it will still be turned down quite a bit. You don't realize how fast a 400HP Cobalt is until you drive one. A 400Hp Cobalt DD is more the enough for a everyday car. That's my opinion tho of course. There are alot of guy who want 500+, in my mind it is just unnecessary