Forced Induction Turbos/Superchargers

Hahn Kit Reliability

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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 10:28 PM
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Hahn Kit Reliability

So the day has finally come when i want more Ill be purchasing the hahn kit very soon here just had some questions concerning the kit. On the hahn site they state its a complete bolt on you send them your ecu tcm combo and they tune it for the kit...you pop it in the car 8psi boosted ready to go......no tuning nothing needed



.................is that really true ? lol is the hahn tune reliable TO USE indefinately ?because i dont plan on modifying the tune A) because i have no means too hp tuners/knowledge or a reliable shop that i would trust my car with B) Its my daily driver" it will be seeing lots of miles" C)My power goal is the advertised gain " between 280-300 crank hp"


input guys and gals who have the kit ??????

also will i be needing a boost gauge? oil pressure gauge? afr gauge ? BOV?

should i invest in auto tranny mounts and a tranny cooler ? if so were would i get those ive only seen mounts for the 5 spds

any remarks suggestions or input at all would be very very helpful,

FYI : ill be doing the install, iam handy when it comes to mechanics not so much in the tuning department

anyway let me know guys ....as always thanks a bunch
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 11:13 PM
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It's a complete kit. You will not need anything else right away. You can most certainly add items to it as time goes by.

Talk to CelicaCobalt. He has had this kit installed for some time now and will be your best bet on information.
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Old Sep 23, 2008 | 11:15 PM
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06noscobalt or something of that combination also runs the kit. i had a few conversations about it with him. very knowledgable
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Old Sep 24, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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pmed him guys hopefully he will chime in here soon
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Cloudio
So the day has finally come when i want more Ill be purchasing the hahn kit very soon here just had some questions concerning the kit. On the hahn site they state its a complete bolt on you send them your ecu tcm combo and they tune it for the kit...you pop it in the car 8psi boosted ready to go......no tuning nothing needed



.................is that really true ?YES AND NO. THE TUNE WILL LET THE CAR RUN OK BUT YOU WILL NOT BE PERFORMAING AT YOUR BEST WITHOUT A CUSTOM TUNE. lol is the hahn tune reliable TO USE indefinately ? IT IS OK TO USE BUT I WOULD ONLY MAKE IT TEMPORARY BECAUSE EVERY CAR IS DIFFERENT AND A BLANKET TUNE DOESNT HONE IN ON THE IMPORTANT THINGS NEEDED ALL THE TIME.because i dont plan on modifying the tune A) because i have no means too hp tuners/knowledge or a reliable shop that i would trust my car with B) Its my daily driver" it will be seeing lots of miles" C)My power goal is the advertised gain " between 280-300 crank hp"YOULL GET THAT NUMBER AT THE CRANK BUT YOU WILL HAVE TO WATCH THE DRIVABILITY.


input guys and gals who have the kit ?????? THE KIT IS GREAT THOUGH ONE OF MY CHARGE PIPES RUBBED THROUGH MY A/C LINE AND NOW I DONT HAVE COLD AIR FOR A/C. LOOKING TO SEE WHAT TO DO TO FIX THAT. TOOK IT 2 YEARS TO HAPPEN.

also will i be needing a boost gauge? oil pressure gauge? afr gauge ? BOV? BOV COMES WITH KIT. GAUGES ARE SUGGESTED BUT NOT NEEDED. ILL SAY THIS, I WOULDNT DO IT WITHOUT THEM. A/F GAUGE ISNT WORTH IT UNLESS YOU ARE TUNING OFF OF IT, THEY ARE EXPENSIVE AND IF LEFT INSTALLED IN THE CAR ALL THE TIME THEY GO BAD OFTEN AND ARE NOT CHEAP TO REPLACE. BOOST, OIL PRESSURE, FUEL PRESSURE AND TRANS TEMP ARE WHAT I SUGGEST. A/F GAUGE CAN BE TEMP USED AT A DYNO SHOP FOR A CUSTOM TUNE.

should i invest in auto tranny mounts and a tranny cooler ? if so were would i get those ive only seen mounts for the 5 spdsA TRANS COOLER FROM PERMACOOL IS ALL I HAVE AND IT SEEMS TO BE FINE. NO TEMPS ABOVE 180 ON HARD RUNNING.

any remarks suggestions or input at all would be very very helpful,

FYI : ill be doing the install, iam handy when it comes to mechanics not so much in the tuning department

anyway let me know guys ....as always thanks a bunch
GOOD LUCK WITH THE INSTALL. SEE ANSWERS ABOVE.
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Old Sep 25, 2008 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by celicacobalt
GOOD LUCK WITH THE INSTALL. SEE ANSWERS ABOVE.
wow very informative celica thank you!! uh real quick what did you mean exactly here YOULL GET THAT NUMBER AT THE CRANK BUT YOU WILL HAVE TO WATCH THE DRIVABILITY.

??????
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 08:37 AM
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just make sure you keep up on everything. boosting a n/a car is not easy. right now im having misfires that dont allow me over 4krpm. i have to pull the plugs i just installed 2 months ago and see if i can find the issue.
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by celicacobalt
just make sure you keep up on everything. boosting a n/a car is not easy. right now im having misfires that dont allow me over 4krpm. i have to pull the plugs i just installed 2 months ago and see if i can find the issue.
hmm..... lastly can an atmospheric BOV be used with the kit/ tune ?? or only recirc.??
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 05:26 PM
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just get an ss/tc
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluebaltsc
just get an ss/tc
why lol 4k compared to 22k and still making more power ....no thanks ill stick with my le5
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Cloudio
why lol 4k compared to 22k and still making more power ....no thanks ill stick with my le5
be careful with that statement. there are some fanbois on here who are obsessed with their tc and think its faster than anything lol
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Old Sep 26, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fbaero10
be careful with that statement. there are some fanbois on here who are obsessed with their tc and think its faster than anything lol
true but the facts dont lie lol
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Old Sep 27, 2008 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Cloudio
hmm..... lastly can an atmospheric BOV be used with the kit/ tune ?? or only recirc.??
no, must be recirc to work correctly.
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Old Sep 27, 2008 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Cloudio
why lol 4k compared to 22k and still making more power ....no thanks ill stick with my le5
but ss/tc is more reliable and built for speed unlike ur ss/na
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Old Sep 29, 2008 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by drew1991sf
but ss/tc is more reliable and built for speed unlike ur ss/na
Does the title of this thread say SS/NA VS. SS/TC? no!

IF YOU DON'T HAVE ANYTHING HELPFUL TO ADD TO THE THREAD KEEP YOUR IGNORANT THOUGHTS TO YOURSELF

its members like you that are making this forum go down hill.....
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Old Sep 29, 2008 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Cloudio
Does the title of this thread say SS/NA VS. SS/TC? no!

IF YOU DON'T HAVE ANYTHING HELPFUL TO ADD TO THE THREAD KEEP YOUR IGNORANT THOUGHTS TO YOURSELF

its members like you that are making this forum go down hill.....
OK, here's on topic for ya!

I've got the original 2.4L automatic prototype car, and have gone 17,000+ miles since the kit was installed. No reliability issues whatsoever - the Hahn folks know their stuff! More details on the car here, including links to magazine articles:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/complete-cars-101/f-s-2007-cobalt-ss-2-4l-turbo-133327/

(car is FOR SALE now btw, hence the link to the "for sale" forum.)
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by FAT_POPS
OK, here's on topic for ya!

I've got the original 2.4L automatic prototype car, and have gone 17,000+ miles since the kit was installed. No reliability issues whatsoever - the Hahn folks know their stuff! More details on the car here, including links to magazine articles:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=133327

(car is FOR SALE now btw, hence the link to the "for sale" forum.)
Thank you bro

A+++' member

thats the kind of help i was looking for ....
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 12:08 AM
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ill be having my kit here in a week. im excited. the day is finally near YAY
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Cloudio
Thank you bro

A+++' member

thats the kind of help i was looking for ....
No prob... actually just realized I should have answered your questions with a bit more particularity.

also will i be needing a boost gauge? oil pressure gauge? afr gauge ? BOV?
I have no boost, oil pressure, or AFR gauges. No need for 'em for what I do, and I'm all about stock appearance inside and out.

should i invest in auto tranny mounts and a tranny cooler ? if so were would i get those ive only seen mounts for the 5 spds
Truth be told, I do hear an occasional "squeak" from the motor and turbo kit rocking a bit on shifts, and you definitely feel the shifts a lot more than stock. It's to be expected - Hahn tunes the TCM to let the tranny live with this kind of power. It's definitely liveable, though, and I drive this car EVERY DAY. But as to whether it's abusing the tranny mounts, I seriously doubt it. As with all cars, automatics are a lot easier on motor/trans mounts than manuals, and I have neither heard of nor experienced any issues with this. Not to say it COULDN'T happen down the line or with a lot of racing abuse, but I am not particularly concerned about it.

As to a tranny cooler, I don't have one. I'm sure it would be required if going road racing or the like, but for street driving and occasional drag, I'd save your $$$ and time.

I also see you're concerned about tuning, and FYI just in case you don't know, the tune included is universal and all you have to do is turn a couple of knobs on the BoostFueler while on a dyno. See part 3 of my magazine series for a description (link in for sale thread).

Best of luck!

Chris
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by FAT_POPS
No prob... actually just realized I should have answered your questions with a bit more particularity.



I have no boost, oil pressure, or AFR gauges. No need for 'em for what I do, and I'm all about stock appearance inside and out.



Truth be told, I do hear an occasional "squeak" from the motor and turbo kit rocking a bit on shifts, and you definitely feel the shifts a lot more than stock. It's to be expected - Hahn tunes the TCM to let the tranny live with this kind of power. It's definitely liveable, though, and I drive this car EVERY DAY. But as to whether it's abusing the tranny mounts, I seriously doubt it. As with all cars, automatics are a lot easier on motor/trans mounts than manuals, and I have neither heard of nor experienced any issues with this. Not to say it COULDN'T happen down the line or with a lot of racing abuse, but I am not particularly concerned about it.

As to a tranny cooler, I don't have one. I'm sure it would be required if going road racing or the like, but for street driving and occasional drag, I'd save your $$$ and time.

I also see you're concerned about tuning, and FYI just in case you don't know, the tune included is universal and all you have to do is turn a couple of knobs on the BoostFueler while on a dyno. See part 3 of my magazine series for a description (link in for sale thread).

Best of luck!

Chris

i was so happy till that last part lol "the tune included is universal and all you have to do is turn a couple of knobs on the BoostFueler while on a dyno"

......is that absolutely necessary ?? what for ??also would it be alright to drive it to a dyno i would be doing the install
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Old Sep 30, 2008 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Cloudio
i was so happy till that last part lol "the tune included is universal and all you have to do is turn a couple of knobs on the BoostFueler while on a dyno"

......is that absolutely necessary ?? what for ??also would it be alright to drive it to a dyno i would be doing the install
Yes, it's necessary but very easy. Read the story in the link to "Transportation TranSSformation, Part 3" for full info, but basically it just gets your full-throttle fuel pressure (and hence, AFR) spot-on. This is the adjustment of the one knob. The other knob (actually a screw) is for idle fuel pressure and you can adjust at home after doing the install. Absolutely no reason you can't drive to the dyno after the install - just no full throttle!

BTW, don't let this whole system scare you off. Again, read the article for full info, but this is the right way to tune LE5 engines and it works great.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FAT_POPS
Yes, it's necessary but very easy. Read the story in the link to "Transportation TranSSformation, Part 3" for full info, but basically it just gets your full-throttle fuel pressure (and hence, AFR) spot-on. This is the adjustment of the one knob. The other knob (actually a screw) is for idle fuel pressure and you can adjust at home after doing the install. Absolutely no reason you can't drive to the dyno after the install - just no full throttle!

BTW, don't let this whole system scare you off. Again, read the article for full info, but this is the right way to tune LE5 engines and it works great.
Read that article ...correct me if iam wrong so the idle pressure adjustment screw is adjusted till the gauge reads 30 psi at idle which will give a good afr.....then the other knob has to read 70psi at WOT my question is if the wot knob controls fuel pressure to the injectors it there for controls the afr meaning turning it one way leans things out and the other richens things up ...correct? wouldnt that also entail that a few turns in the rich direction would leave me safe ?? ofcourse i would need an afr gauge to make sure iam not running to rich but would that be a possibility after all what do i instruct the dyno guys to do ?? turn this knob till my afr is ok at wot ????

also read if you turn it to much you prevent the fuel bleed off when you let off the throttle .... hows does it bleed off ??

iam kinda confused could you shed some light?
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Cloudio
Read that article ...correct me if iam wrong so the idle pressure adjustment screw is adjusted till the gauge reads 30 psi at idle which will give a good afr.....then the other knob has to read 70psi at WOT my question is if the wot knob controls fuel pressure to the injectors it there for controls the afr meaning turning it one way leans things out and the other richens things up ...correct? wouldnt that also entail that a few turns in the rich direction would leave me safe ?? ofcourse i would need an afr gauge to make sure iam not running to rich but would that be a possibility after all what do i instruct the dyno guys to do ?? turn this knob till my afr is ok at wot ????

also read if you turn it to much you prevent the fuel bleed off when you let off the throttle .... hows does it bleed off ??

iam kinda confused could you shed some light?
Yes, turning that knob either direction alters fuel pressure, which therefore alters how much fuel is delivered on each injector opening event, which therefore alters AFR.

In terms of exactly how to "fine tune" the system to your particular application, you can call the Hahn tech line and I am sure they'd be happy to help. But basically what you shoot for is the recommended WOT fuel pressure on the dyno, and then just make sure the AFR is within safe parameters at that fuel pressure. I would not just have the dyno guys twist the knob either way until they "find the right AFR" - while that might be the end result you're searching for, the Hahn instructions should be followed closely.

About the bleed off issue, if you turn the WOT fuel pressure adjustment knob too far, it prevents fuel from entering the return line and heading back to the tank once you're out of the boost. This means the fuel pressure will stay pegged at WOT spec while the car idles (which it will do, since it's back in open loop and can cut back on injector pulse width despite fuel pressure being double what it should be - but enough of this will probably confuse the heck out of the ECM).

Hope this helps. I don't want to get any more technical than this because I'm just relaying information I learned from Hahn - they know their system better than I do and I don't want to accidentally talk false information.
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 01:16 PM
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its a shame you don't have any tuners near you......you can purchase the garrett kit cheaper else where with an upgraded turbo
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Old Oct 1, 2008 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by FAT_POPS
Yes, turning that knob either direction alters fuel pressure, which therefore alters how much fuel is delivered on each injector opening event, which therefore alters AFR.

In terms of exactly how to "fine tune" the system to your particular application, you can call the Hahn tech line and I am sure they'd be happy to help. But basically what you shoot for is the recommended WOT fuel pressure on the dyno, and then just make sure the AFR is within safe parameters at that fuel pressure. I would not just have the dyno guys twist the knob either way until they "find the right AFR" - while that might be the end result you're searching for, the Hahn instructions should be followed closely.

About the bleed off issue, if you turn the WOT fuel pressure adjustment knob too far, it prevents fuel from entering the return line and heading back to the tank once you're out of the boost. This means the fuel pressure will stay pegged at WOT spec while the car idles (which it will do, since it's back in open loop and can cut back on injector pulse width despite fuel pressure being double what it should be - but enough of this will probably confuse the heck out of the ECM).

Hope this helps. I don't want to get any more technical than this because I'm just relaying information I learned from Hahn - they know their system better than I do and I don't want to accidentally talk false information.
Ya man you've been a great help doesn't sound to bad ...i guess ill just have to get the specifics from hahn when the time comes ...thanx alot for assuring my forced induction route





Originally Posted by Brandon97Z
its a shame you don't have any tuners near you......you can purchase the garrett kit cheaper else where with an upgraded turbo
tell me about it thats why iam worried all the shops over in vegas are owned by a bunch of high school drop outs that have no ******* clue what there doing ...i called a shop that didn't even know there was a non-supercharged cobalt ss lmao

Last edited by Cloudio; Oct 1, 2008 at 01:45 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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