Forced Induction Turbos/Superchargers

wtb self tapping drill bit?

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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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mike25's Avatar
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From: west virginia
wtb self tapping drill bit?

im not sure if im even calling it the right thing but i saw in the garrett kit that they provide im guessing a self tapping drill bit to drill into the girdle for a return fitting...where can i get these? local hardware store? and what exactly am i looking for? does it look like a regular drill bit just with threads?
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 10:40 AM
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yuo mean A tap, you can get them ant any hardware store, but you need to know what size the serew threas you are going to use are so you can get the right tap

Originally Posted by SilvrLT
yuo mean A tap, you can get them ant any hardware store, but you need to know what size the serew threas you are going to use are so you can get the right tap
Sorry about the horrible type-o's

Last edited by SilvrLT; Dec 28, 2007 at 10:40 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 10:54 AM
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From: west virginia
Originally Posted by SilvrLT
yuo mean A tap, you can get them ant any hardware store, but you need to know what size the serew threas you are going to use are so you can get the right tap



Sorry about the horrible type-o's
i need it to fit 1/2 NPT...do you have a pic so i know what im lookin for
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 12:28 PM
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I know what your talkin about but those self tapping drill bits are not very reliable, they can strip the threads easily. You will need a 1/2"NPT Tap, and a 23/32" Drill bit to go with it.
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 12:39 PM
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From: west virginia
Originally Posted by vulcanturbo
I know what your talkin about but those self tapping drill bits are not very reliable, they can strip the threads easily. You will need a 1/2"NPT Tap, and a 23/32" Drill bit to go with it.
so then ill drill the hole with the 23/32" bit and then how does the tap work?
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Old Dec 28, 2007 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mike25
so then ill drill the hole with the 23/32" bit and then how does the tap work?
works basically like the drail, except you will drive it in by hand. they make tap wrenches but i dont think that will fit behind the block, you will have to use a ratchet and socket, hole it on the hole strait, then begin turning it a little at a time, it will start to drive itself into the hole on its own and cutting the threads as it goes, run it all the way to the bottom the the tap then back it out. Do it slowly and use oil on it to help it cut. A lot of ace hardwares sell stuff called rapid tap. it works great.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 02:10 PM
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From: Fayett-Evil NC
DO NOT EVER DRILL INTO THE OIL PAN WITH IT ON THE VEHICLE! drop the oil pan before you put in the drain bung. you will get metal chips in the oil which will completely mess up your engine. And here is what you are looking for, they are actually called "draps" or combination drill taps and remember also when you are tapping a whole that with every complete turn, back it out 1/4 turn to break the chips or you run the risk of breaking the tap and that's never a good thing to try and get out.

http://www.alfatools.com/cat2/main18.pdf
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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From: Burlington,Ontario
If you have never tapped a hole before, I suggest that you practice on a piece of scrap metal first. Really good advice about not tapping an oil pan while on the car. Pipe taps
(NPT) a little different then regular bolt taps, they are a tapered fit. Most people make the mistake of bottoming out the tap, this is where they are most likely to break. Combo drill bits taps only work well on a drill press where the hole is drilled perfectly straight. I would not suggest using one with a hand drill.


Good luck.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 05:26 PM
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From: Fayett-Evil NC
honestly though....you would be better off dropping the oil pan and having somebody put in a weld on bung...those are pre-threaded and more durable than just tapping the pan...just tapping the pan you can still strip the threads out..then you have to redo the hole...either by going oversize or filling the hole with weld and redrilling/tapping which you can only do so much before the metal fatigues and fails (it's cast not forged so if you over do it...it will crack and then you have to buy a new one)
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:08 PM
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From: west virginia
Originally Posted by FacelessKhaos
honestly though....you would be better off dropping the oil pan and having somebody put in a weld on bung...those are pre-threaded and more durable than just tapping the pan...just tapping the pan you can still strip the threads out..then you have to redo the hole...either by going oversize or filling the hole with weld and redrilling/tapping which you can only do so much before the metal fatigues and fails (it's cast not forged so if you over do it...it will crack and then you have to buy a new one)
where would i put the weld in bung at?
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 12:41 AM
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From: Fayett-Evil NC
Originally Posted by mike25
where would i put the weld in bung at?
flat spot between the block and the tranny...it's a automated flaw in the manufacture process that makes this flat spot...the spot is used to the Saab 93 turbos and others overseas cars that use the ecotec platform but with turbo (we all know how the overseas guys and such love their turbo engines for economy)
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Old Dec 31, 2007 | 10:10 AM
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From: west virginia
Originally Posted by FacelessKhaos
flat spot between the block and the tranny...it's a automated flaw in the manufacture process that makes this flat spot...the spot is used to the Saab 93 turbos and others overseas cars that use the ecotec platform but with turbo (we all know how the overseas guys and such love their turbo engines for economy)
do you have a pic of this spot? not sure i ever noticed it
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