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The Cobalt Ss/sc: Got Boost?

Old Jul 14, 2006 | 02:46 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by denny
LOL...That's awesome Thank you. The ZZP modular pulley was $99.99U.S!!
If you want to buy other size pulley's their $49.99U.S each.
DAMN! $100! Thats cheap. Did you have to adjust anything with the ecu? I would imagine that you had to adjust ur A/F ratio correct?
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 03:41 PM
  #27  
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Nice write up Denny! We need to hit up Trim road soon.
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 05:25 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Cobalt_SSTuner
DAMN! $100! Thats cheap. Did you have to adjust anything with the ecu? I would imagine that you had to adjust ur A/F ratio correct?
Nope, nothing.
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 05:27 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BLKSS
Nice write up Denny! We need to hit up Trim road soon.
Hey buddy, want to meet on Monday?. I have to show you all the goodies I ordered ready for install

Last edited by denny; Jul 14, 2006 at 06:36 PM.
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 11:38 AM
  #30  
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good write up thanks
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 05:39 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by sneaky
You might want to change the physical size of the OEM pulley it's 3.5 around in and the inside the track is 3.4 if you want to get specific. Just trying to be informative. Decent write up but how come your not keeping the gas and RPM's specific?
Actually if you want to get specific the stock pulley is 3.35"...not 3.4 and not 3.3" *sigh*

Nice write up though. Don't really understand the whole reasoning behind everything. There are plenty of people running a 3.0" pulley redline numerous times all day long with no tuning and the injectors can get maxed out but the injectors on the completely stock redline that did the tuning for the INTENSE Stage 1 hit 233whp with nothing done and the injectors were at 110% and the guy's car is still doing great.
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 05:40 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Cobalt_SSTuner
DAMN! $100! Thats cheap. Did you have to adjust anything with the ecu? I would imagine that you had to adjust ur A/F ratio correct?
The LSJs have numerous people running 2.9s continuing to see gains over the 3.0s with no tuning or upgrading of the injectors.
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 05:53 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by denny
How much of a power gain can we expect from the added Boost of the 3 inch pulley? For every decrease in pulley size of 0.1 inch, it equals to approximately 0.9-1 PSI (Pound Square Inch) of additional force fed air. The OEM pulley being 3.3 inch, going down to a 3 inch pulley means a gain of 2.5 PSI. On a Supercharged/Intercooled application like the Cobalt SS/SC, each PSI is equal to approximately 4-6 HP and 6-8 ft-torque, so 2.5PSI x 4 HP = 10 HP gain and 15 Ft-Pounds.
With the 3" pulley, which is actually .35" smaller than stock you should see yourself sitting around 15.5psi right now. .1" drop = 1psi on average.

Technically there is no exact calculation of how much hp and torque you gain out of the extra pound of pressure because when you work your way down to the 2.5-2.7" pulleys you are seeing almost NO hp gains and tons or toque gains. Just like with an exhaust...djt81185 (Dan) had a stock exhaust 2.5" pulley and 60lb injectors and getting that tuned he had 270whp and 253lb/ft. Now Rob Archer on the other hand had a cat delete, 2.6" pulley, 60lb injectors and a 2.5" Corsa exhaust and he saw 270whp (just like Dan) and 273lb/ft. So it obvious when you're that high of psi, the exhaust won't make TOO much of a difference in hp but will allow the exhaust gases to flow properly and smoothly and just gain a lot more torque.

For those who are wondering, I didn’t obtain any belt slippage with the 3 inch pulley. If you plan on upgrading to a smaller pulley, you will need to either purchase a smaller belt or an adjustable tensioner. This is exactly what I plan to do in the near future.
Actually you don't need to worry about belt slippage until you get a 2.8" pulley. The stock idler pulley is 2.5" so getting the larger idler pulley (3.0") won't be necessary until you drop the s/c pulley a half inch. If you don't wait till then, it will cause the belt to snap due to the pressure from the belt stretching. Now the GM Stage belt you can get for $40 on average. That would be useful for those with a 3.0" pulley.

1) Performance Package from ZZP:
• 42# Lucas Injectors
• ZZP 2.6 Inch Pulley
• ZZP Adjustable Tensioner
• MAFT Tuning and lots of Dyno time
• AEROFORCE interceptor gauge / Wide Band O2 Sensor
• 2 Step colder NGK plugs
Only 1 step colder plugs will be necessary. The Autolite copper plugs I think is 3922 that you will need. As far as 42.5lb injectors with a 2.6" pulley, your injectors will be maxed out, more maxed then they need to be because it is recommended to start using the 60lb injectors with a 2.7" pulley. And with using the MAF-T for tuning with a 2.6" and any injectors, you're more apt to blow a hole through a pistons because without the HP Tuners software, you have no real way of actually monitoring everything and the MAF-T goes in 5% incraments when you also won't be able to toy with the timing and everything else like you will need to with mods like that. Since you will have the INTERCEPTOR and Wideband, it will help a lot to see the A/F though.
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 06:27 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by joeytroy
Denny,

I noticed you where running 94 Octane. Is there a reason why you are running a higher octane? I know with the stock injectors will take as little as 87-91 and or higher, but seeing as you haven't upgraded the ECU or put the big injectors in I wonder if the numbers where scewed a little bit. I know you didn't push it to redline but it would be intresting to see what you could do with 91 or even 87?

Joey
Ok, first off with 87-89 octane you can be kicked into the low octane fuel map therefor make less power. And 94 Octane Sunoco gas is the best gas around. Anyways, other stations that sell good gas are 93 Octane BP and Shell. Most places except California don't sell 91 octane anyways. The closest I've seen is Speedway 92 which is ****.
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 10:21 PM
  #35  
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Very nice
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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 10:53 PM
  #36  
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With this upgrade are any other engine modifications necessary or recommended? Currently my engine is stock but I'd like to go smaller on the pulley if I could without doing any other major mods.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 02:23 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by WarlordSunTzu
With this upgrade are any other engine modifications necessary or recommended? Currently my engine is stock but I'd like to go smaller on the pulley if I could without doing any other major mods.
One Step colder plugs.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 10:55 AM
  #38  
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I was running a 2.9" pulley with 2 step colder NGKs and K&N intake. In 100+ degree heat I didn't notice any Knock. Billetflow also has a pulley kit for the LSJ, you can order them in blue, orange, silver, and black. I had the blue setup and it almost looked too awesome to slap on the motor. The colors are specific to match the exterior color. I tried the Boost Bypass Mod that everyone on another forum claims by, but the only thing I noticed, was a drop in acceleration so your results may vary. The one thing I did notice after undoing the Boost Bypass mod, is that the boost builds much quicker. I think with an ECM tune to tell the engine-nanny not to dump boost past 12 PSI the pulley swap will only be that much sweeter. Good Write up by the way!!
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 12:04 AM
  #39  
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Denny, you didnt do the boost bypass mod, correct? how does it reach 14.8 psi then? is that just a brief spike or will it hold that psi? im confused
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 12:30 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Bika
Denny, you didnt do the boost bypass mod, correct? how does it reach 14.8 psi then? is that just a brief spike or will it hold that psi? im confused
.1" drop = 1psi on average...he was wrong on the stock pulley size so he should be at 15.5psi

Stock pulley= 3.35"
His pulley= 3.00"
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 08:14 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by vandy0419
.1" drop = 1psi on average...he was wrong on the stock pulley size so he should be at 15.5psi

Stock pulley= 3.35"
His pulley= 3.00"
Excuse me Vandy0419 but If you read my article you will see that I do mention the stock pulley as being 3.3 Inch approx in size...now 3.35" is exactly the same c'mon now 0.05 Inch of a difference and your accusing me of it being wrong on the stock size... 0.05 Inch will not give you more boost.
I do mention that .1" is 1 PSI on average, why do you feel the need like repeating my information over and over!?!

My stock gauge does read 14.8 -15 PSI. These are facts and not fiction. Did you know that boost levels are also affected by weather and elevation? I take the time to write an article without any B.S!! So I suggest you P.M me directly instead of making accusations that everything I wrote here is wrong.

What I wrote are all straight facts taken from professionals. And you Vandy0419 are?!? My next review is going to be tuned by another professional shop in which I won’t be mentioning the name just yet, but rest assured he is the best of the best, those that follow my articles will agree that I do not install crap on my car, nothing but the best goes in my baby.

Like always, I work very hard in bringing all of you, no B.S or any over inflated numbers that are incorrect and just inflate egos. Nothing but straight facts and numbers with properly made "How to installs" to go along with my articles. I have one intention and one only and that is to help each one of you. So Vandy0419, yes, your welcome for the "Article and How to". Check your P.M, I just sent you one.

Last edited by denny; Jul 17, 2006 at 08:33 AM.
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 08:21 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by denny
Excuse me Vandy0419 but If you read my article you will see that I do mention the stock pulley as being 3.3 Inch approx in size...now 3.35" is exactly the same c'mon now 0.05 Inch of a difference and your accusing me of it being wrong on the stock size... 0.05 Inch will not give you more boost.
I do mention that .1" is 1 PSI on average, dwhy do you feel like repeating my information over and over!?!

My stock gauge does read 14.8 -15 PSI. These are facts and not fiction. Did you know that boost levels are also affected by weather and elevation? I take the time to write an article without any B.S!! So I suggest you P.M me directly instead of making accusations that everything I wrote here is wrong.

What I wrote are all straight facts taken from professionals. And you Vandy0419 are?!? My next review is going to be tuned by another professional shop in which I won’t be mentioning the name just yet, but rest assured he is the best of the best, those that follow my articles will agree that I do not install crap on my car nothing but the best goes in my baby.

Like always, I work hard in bringing all of you, no B.S or any over inflated numbers that are incorrect and just inflate egos. Nothing but straight facts and numbers with properly made "How to installs" to go along my articles
Then why does everyone tell me that the BSFC for an FI car is MUCH higher than you stated (more like.7 instad of .5), meaning that the 36# injectors at 80% duty cycle can SO WAY produce 230hp. The manifold pressure fights the fuel pressure, impeding flow.

The only way to get that much hp out of the stockers is to run them to 100% duty cycle, which is not always the safest thing to do, as they do not flow as predictably.

Even the stage 42#'s will limit you at 280ish if i remmber right. Don't get me wrong, I would run them higher than 80%, but not if it start's getting lean, beacuse I plan on my engine lasting a while.
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 08:35 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by red_wing_2121
Very nice
Thank you! It's nice to see some of you appreciate the hard work I but in these "Articles and How to installs"
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 08:39 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Bika
Denny, you didnt do the boost bypass mod, correct? how does it reach 14.8 psi then? is that just a brief spike or will it hold that psi? im confused
To answer your question properly:

I reach 14.8 - 15 PSI because I dont go beyond 5800-6000RPM. At around that RPM range(5800-6000RPM) to redline, the boost solenoid starts bleeding boost back to stock levels. On my next Article the Boost solenoid will be disabled and tested fully.
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 10:15 AM
  #45  
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Awesome news Denny. I was hoping to see this post up sooner than later.
Sorry I couldnt help out here, as mentioned I had to work late that week.

I see you're formula is under intense scrutiny here by the labcoats..
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 10:35 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by SuperchargedSS
Awesome news Denny. I was hoping to see this post up sooner than later.
Sorry I couldnt help out here, as mentioned I had to work late that week.

I see you're formula is under intense scrutiny here by the labcoats..
Thanks bro . LOL...yes they are, I did not realise that I would be scrutinized for 0.000000000000000005 differences but that's o.k. Some of you do appreciate my work

This is all going to change when I get back from the U.S with my car professionally tuned from a Performance Shop (this time on a DYNOJET) which I won’t mention right away. I will be making the announcement very soon.

I will bring back the biggest write up ever with Dyno sheets for every change made with a new BASELINE run to compare with my old BASELINE on the Mustang Dyno. Hopefully it will answer all the questions and be as ACCURATE as possible for the lab coats....lol...
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Old Jul 17, 2006 | 12:05 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by NoRemorse
Then why does everyone tell me that the BSFC for an FI car is MUCH higher than you stated (more like.7 instad of .5), meaning that the 36# injectors at 80% duty cycle can SO WAY produce 230hp. The manifold pressure fights the fuel pressure, impeding flow.

The only way to get that much hp out of the stockers is to run them to 100% duty cycle, which is not always the safest thing to do, as they do not flow as predictably.

Even the stage 42#'s will limit you at 280ish if i remmber right. Don't get me wrong, I would run them higher than 80%, but not if it start's getting lean, beacuse I plan on my engine lasting a while.
NoRemorse I just sent you a P.M.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 04:54 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Aeain
Ok, first off with 87-89 octane you can be kicked into the low octane fuel map therefor make less power. And 94 Octane Sunoco gas is the best gas around. Anyways, other stations that sell good gas are 93 Octane BP and Shell. Most places except California don't sell 91 octane anyways. The closest I've seen is Speedway 92 which is ****.
.

Ha ha ha ha ha, you really need to read this consumer article about the gas industry that came out on a Smart Money report. What the gas companys do not tell you is that all of the marketing ploys to get you to buy say BP or shell because of additives is complete BS, the government requires by law that every gallon of gas that you purchase has these additives, it just so happens that the big oil companys want you pay extra for their gas so they throw money into the marketing. Here is an exerpt.

"My gas isn't better for your car; it's just more expensive."
Oil companies spend lots of money explaining why their gas is better than the competition's. Chevron's gas, for example, is fortified with "Techron," and Amoco Ultimate is supposed to save the planet along with your engine. But today more than ever, one gallon of gas is as good as the next.

True, additives help to clean your engine, but what the companies don't tell you is that all gas does so. Since 1994 the government has required that detergents be added to all gasoline to help prevent fuel injectors from clogging. State and local regulators keep a close watch to make sure those standards are met; in Florida inspectors checked 45,000 samples last year to ensure the state's gas supply was up to snuff, and 99% of the time it was. "There's little difference between brand-name gas and any other," says AAA spokesperson Geoff Sundstrom.

What's more, your local Chevron station may sell gas refined by Shell or Exxon Mobil. Suppliers share pipelines, so they all use the same fuel. And the difference between the most expensive brand-name gas and the lowliest gallon of no-brand fuel? Often just a quart of detergent added to an 8,000-gallon tanker truck.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 12:40 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by zinner
Why don't you dyno to the redline?

good question... it's sort of like going to the grocery store and only buying something out of the candy machine sitting outside of it.
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Old Jul 19, 2006 | 08:17 PM
  #50  
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Awesome write up!!! I look forward to seeing your af and kr #'s. This seems like the most inexpensive way to gain boost on a stock motor. Apparently, some people on here post before they read. Anyways, Thanks again! This will be my next mod combined with GM stg 1!
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