Hey guys, back again. Been super busy with final exams and lots of stuff. I'm new here, so I am sure not many of you remember me, but at any rate. The Cobalt I was originally looking at (2006 Cobalt SS no TC/SC with 74k miles for 8500) sold the night before I came home from school. Anyways, I found an 06 one just like it, new tires, everything, just looks like they bottomed out on the front a little bit, nothing maybe a little touch up kit or anything like that can fix. Anyways, its an 06, Silver, appears to be in good condition (although I think I am looking at it tomorrow or Fri), new Pirelli tires, sunroof, the pioneer system with the sub, heated leather recaro seats (I believe)....and 71k miles. Honestly if the thing passes the test drive of mine I plan on picking it up. Only knock on it (that I know of for now) was like I said, it bottomed out a time for two. What do you guys suggest I do to fix that? I am not rich by any means, but I was thinking about maybe getting a touch up kit or heck, even trying to sharpie it? It was originally posted a week ago for 8900 and now he wants 8k for it. If I could, I would be test driving it now, but we have been playing phone tag and shooting eachother emails and haven't found a time to meet yet

 

If its a dealer ask them to fix it bfor u buy it. Privite seller idk then.ide recomend buying from a good dealership some people beat the hell outta these cars better safe then sorry..most reputal dealerships put tge cars thru inspections even if you have to pay a little more.

One more thing no sharpie plz = fail

One more thing no sharpie plz = fail

 

use your best judgement either way dood...if its light scratches where you cant hardly see i wouldnt see a prollem w a sharpie just so you know its silver lol but if its worse than that have them take it to a shop to see how much it would cost to fix..you might be able to use that as a pretty good bargaining chip

 

It is a private seller, and he said 8k is the lowest he will go (and i understand why--like I said, he originally had it at 8900...) but I didn't even think about them beating it up, good call.

In general though, for those of you who actually have the SS (supercharged or not), do you guys like them and do you recommend the car or no? I am coming from a Passat (turbo charged, the works) but I have pretty much brought my car choices to two cars: Mazda 3 or the Cobalt SS. I want to stay American, or atleast go American, which would lead to the Cobalt. But I know a ton of people who have the 3 and absolutely love it. The only thing that worries me about the Cobalt is that I keep on thinking they are nothing more than a fancier Cavalier, but I know that is an awful comparison to make. I have driven the LT before (as a rental) and it seemed like a nice little peppy ride. I am looking for something sporty, good on gas, and cheap on insurance. I know the coupe would be a little more on the insurance, but I am not expecting it to be THAT much more...

 

Well if I was you ide wait for a SC to come around, you may regret not getting one I had a 07 LS and traded for a 05 ss/sc best choice I ever made..I pay 130$ a month with AAA and I'm 22 so for me the insurance is very affordable for this car n its even cheaper then my old LS..

 

well i've had my ss for almost 4 years now and i still like it. in the end though you have to decide what you really want.



ps: go state!

 

Ironic thing: I actually go to MSU...I linked this account to my junk mail email account instead of my MSU email...I am a nursing sophomore there and I love it. Represent, fight for the only colors green and white. Lived in West Wilson last year, living in Holden this year.

Anyways, For the guy who said to get a TC/SC...I'd love to, really, I would. But I am coming from a TC Passat, and I hated having to pay $60/oil change (although I hope to learn how to do it on my own soon) and a summer or two ago, when I paid 4.80/gallon for premium, I cried the whole way home. I just want to be able to put regular (or even mid grade) gas in a car, and get the cheap and dirty $15 or $20 oil change. Besides, the non tc/sc engine still puts out what, 171 hp or something like that? Quite the improvement over my (supposedly) 150 hp from my Passat.

 

Yea gas is true, but syn oil is good for 7500? Miles correct me if I'm wrong, reg oil sussposed to b changed at 3000 miles at 25$-30$ do the math mine as well get syn oil.(I may b wrong very sleepy)

 

I never knew that synthetic could go for 7500? Whenever I got it changed in my VW they always said 3k, but I usually changed it at 5. But there is a place around me that changes normal oil for $10. But if I am buying a car I don't want to throw in some generic (or meijer brand) oil in my car. I've always liked penzoil for whatever reason.

 

I'm pretty certin syn oil last for 7500 ide google. N post a link but I'm on meh cell phone

 

Anyways, For the guy who said to get a TC/SC...I'd love to, really, I would. But I am coming from a TC Passat, and I hated having to pay $60/oil change (although I hope to learn how to do it on my own soon) and a summer or two ago, when I paid 4.80/gallon for premium, I cried the whole way home. I just want to be able to put regular (or even mid grade) gas in a car, and get the cheap and dirty $15 or $20 oil change. Besides, the non tc/sc engine still puts out what, 171 hp or something like that? Quite the improvement over my (supposedly) 150 hp from my Passat.[/QUOTE]

still should put Premium in the 2.4, at least it is recomended by GM. I just got a G5 GT 2.4 I like it so far!

 

lots of misconceptions in this thread.... those arent recaros if its not a sc or tc, just regular leather. and yes u should use premium in the "regular" ss jus like in the sc and tc. and no its not just a "fancy cavalier", its not a cavalier at all.

 

The cobalt is far from a cavalier period. People only say that to either bash on the car, for their own reasons, or because it is the successor to that abomination that was the cavalier.

anyway, yeah unfortunately the 2.4 is recommended to use premium fuel, the acceleration will suffer if you use medium or low grade. Also in the long run, it's probably better to use synthetic oil, it can last safely for 5000miles and it keeps the engine clean. I buy mobil 1 from walmart for 22 dollars/5 qt jug and an oil filter at Orielly's auto parts (formely murrays) for like 5 bucks, so my syn. oil change costs me 30 bucks or less.

 

Okay so I just went and checked out the car and test drove it. Outside has a few scratches and whatnot as expected and the inside where the window buttons are and whatnot, that whole silver plastic part is basically chipped away paint wise. It drove nice and it has new brakes and new tires (Pirelli's) and it was originally up for $9k now he said $7900 will do it, plus he will change the oil and fix those window panel things...

Sound good?

He also checked the code on an idiot light that was going off...it said something about a MAP sensor or something like that? He said it is like a $60 part...?

 

i would make sure they fix the code before you buy it. question is it an auto or manual?

also i lived in holden my freshman year and cedar village area this past year.

 

I am living in Holden now and then UVA my junior and senior years...have you seen university village since they renovated it?!

I thought he said he would be willing to fix it although I am not sure.

It is the auto trans, I love it. I took it for a test drive and everything. Only other weird thing is that when I kicked it into gear, the traction control light went on and never turned back off? But then I turned the car off, turned it back on and the light was off.

 

yeah i know a kid that lived in university village this past year. they were really nice, compared to my shithole apartment.

about the traction control thing, i dont know, i have a manual. im sure someone will chime in here.

 

Where did you live? Sparty Village? Cedar Village?

And yeah I emailed the guy seeing how much he would want for the car if he fixed the sensor...should be interesting to see if he would be willing to fix it or not. If he isn't, then something tells me the sensor isn't really the problem...

I mean the guy claimed he bought it at an auction and that it went through some big 100 point inspection or something....but they missed this?