Hey guys,

Does anyone have the procedure for replacing a lock key cylinder from a 2010 cobalt ss? I had the issue where the plate that holds the spring goes dislodged and the car was stuck in the ON position... There was a recall on this for cobalts up to 2009 and they won't warranty cuz my warranty expired last month... Talk about a lucky way to start a vacation week...

Anyways I need the procedure to install/replace a new factory lock cylinder and how to recode it to the original keys. I went to GM and the tech literally scared the crap out of me he went "Well its starts at 120$ for the cylinder thats assuming I don't break anything getting to it and I probably will..." So i said BS I'm going to do it myself my best friend he's a certified mechanic anyways... We're just unsure of how to recode it to the keys that came with it... I know I need the keycode which I'm supposed to have on the original purchase papers according to a GM Bulletin I saw but I need the procedure of what to do with it...

Anyways with the accurate info/pdf and/or scans from the original book is more than welcome...!

Best regards,

Jess

 

Go to a different dealer. Just happened to me Saturday and put it under the recall.

 

Its a bit late for that, the steering column covers are all removed and the cylinder is out + one of the springs was lost in the process... I'd need to put the car on a towing... I did find about the recall later when i got home but it was saying for 2009's only... Plus this dealer's mechanic is an ass... I asked him for an estimate and he goes "Its 120$ to start with unless I break something in the process of getting it out then its a different story..."

I was like BS I'll take it back home and do it myself with my best buddy help... I can work my way around a car enough for that but they told me the cylinder had to be "recoded" to the car and all kinds of BS so I'm trying to sort out whats BS and whats not at this point...

I seen people on forums getting keys cut that started the car without any problems when dealers told them it would never work... Yet I know Pass Key 3+ doesn't have a chip in the key so its probably reading the resistance of the metal or something alike as extra measure... Hard to tell until I get more information, until then the car's in my friend's garage court...