Just as the title states im just about at 200k. She still runs awesome but seeing those miles rack up is making me nervous AF! My question is what should i look into replacing engine wise? I was gonna pull the engine and do a full build on it but i want it done in a timely manner because this is my DD. Pulling the engine and taking it to a machine shop would mean quite a bit of down time, so i would like to just order all my parts and spend a weekend in the garage building it. What can i replace that wouldnt need me to pull the engine? Thanks

 

If you are pulling the motor anyways, I would just replace everything at the same time and that way all of your documentation is at the same time and everything has the same amount of miles on them.

 

My original plan was to pull the motor but i came to my senses and realized i already have 2 project cars, i dont need a third. I want to replace everything i can without removing the engine.

 

You can do everything without pulling the motor.

I would recommend doing timing chain kit, balance chain kit and water pump at least. And you can do all of that without pulling the motor. I just did it before my wreck, it's actually pretty simple with the motor still in.

 

Im not talking about basic maintenance. Im taking about new pistons, rings, main/rod bearings etc etc. I want to get a new bottom end but ive never tried rebuilding an engine while it was still in the car and was wondering if anyone has or knows if its possible

 

If it runs just fine I whould leave it alone unless you want to forge the internals and through a lot of boost at it but if not its not really worth it if its not broke newer cars are made to run a lot longer then cars in the past provided you maintain it properly

 

I did pistons, rods, rings and bearings with the engine in the car. Drop the oil pan and pull off the head, simple. Like I said jack stands and it can be done with a little bit of tools and know how.

 

What did u do for cylinder wear? Did u use one of those honing tools that mount in a drill? Ring gap is my biggest concern

 

It's not a good idea to re-ring a high mileage motor without inspecting the bores and honing them, and that is almost impossible to do in the car. You would need to wash and clean the cylinder with a hone brush after such a procedure. Do a leakdown test, see how each cylinder does with the car fully warmed up, if your under 5% across the board, no reason to touch the bottom end unless you have bearing issues. You can pull the head, do a head gasket, send the head out have it cleaned up and decked, do the timing chain and water pump and balance shaft chain. Inspect your valve train (rockers, lifters) and reassemble with new head bolts.

 

watch this video if you want to get a good idea of how it works...

 

My plan is to t gauge the cylinders to see if im within wear spec and if i am hit it with a honing bit so its not so smooth. Ppl say if it aint broke dont fix it but i would like to avoid sitting on the side of the road with a blown motor and having my car down for weeks just waiting for parts. I plan on throwing alot of bolt ons on her after i get this done

 

If you don't do the procedure properly, expect to spend alot of time on the side of the road. lol T gauges are a very poor choice for getting cylinder bore sizes. I highly recommend you invest in a dial bore gauge.

 

 

That video explains why and how much t gauges are inaccurate.

 

T gauges are always what we used in my engine classes in college so its what im used to. 8 minutes is a bit too long for me to watch at 230AM lol but ill take ur word for it

 

Really? They taught you to measure cylinder bores with T gauges? lol Kinda surprised by that.

 

yep that was the basic engines class tho. i havent gotten up to the advanced machining and what not yet. It was pretty much just take this apart, measure this, measure that and put it back together. i learned more in my own garage than i did in that class

 

Yeh I learned most everything through books and videos and then practice over the past 10 years. I swear college sometimes doesnt live up to its reputation. lol

 

They take all my money and yet i learn more from teaching myself

 

This, if you're not going for performance just replace the timing/balance kit and water pump like someone said earlier. Also would take off the manifold and clean the coked valves, maybe coolant flush, new plugs, new belt, standard tune up stuff.

If you want to swap to a new bottom end, just do the ldk swap from zzp, arp studs, new head gasket ect.

 

I have an LSJ Long block form a Bone Stock 06 SC. 112K miles, $1100 shipped to you if youre intereseted

 

Mongo always has long and short blocks. Pick one up and rebuild at your leisure. Put is i when you have some spare time. Minimal downtime for a small investment.

 

Yea 1k for a block i still have build isnt a small investment. Im a broke ass college kid and i already have a yj im building and a trans am. Id like to get this done with lowest cost possible. Im not putting cheap parts in, id just like to avoid spending money where i dont need to. This is my dd but it will have some mods thrown on it. What should i replace to be able to handle 300hp without blowing anything?

 

not a block, long block. Oil pan to valve cover.

Basically this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-07-Cobalt-SS-Supercharged-ION-Redline-2-0-LSJ-Engine-Motor-OEM-40k-/251464745086?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8c77807e&vxp=mtr

 

You already have more than enough project cars from your saying..If I were you, put a for sale sign on that eco box and upgrade... If you don't care about performance, the FRS and BRZ are nice cars lol