when i get my 2.4 vvt ss i am gonna get a basleine dyno for everyone to see what this car is putting down to the wheels (im hoping its underated like the ss) so i can get a baseline beforte the turbo build up. i have access to a dyno pack for $75 and i may have access to a mustang dyno. which would be better to get the most accurate whp numbers? thanks

 

Butt dyno is the best for the $$$ in my opinion

 

lol real funny ,but it works ok

 

bump? i was wondering also. how accurate are mustang dynos?

 

yeah this is what im trying to find out cuz i think the mustang dyno will be cheaper

 

Dynos are only for tuning. So as long you get a baseline run, then mod, then make sure you go back to the same dyno and make sure they apply the same correction factor, it won't matter which is more accurate.

 

WORD!

 

well right now i wanna see what the wheel hp for the 2.4 ss is and im hoping its gonna be like the superchraged where the whp is more than the bhp, well ill see how much the mustang dyno is gonna be and if its cheaper than the dyno pak ($75) then ill go there since no one knows which is more accurate

 

What does that matter? For the Nth time, dynos are only for tuning! By looking at what the Cobalt SS/SC run in the quarter their 205 hp rating is pretty dead on.

 

thats not the point, im trying to get a whp number im not trying to tune yet, from the answers im getting no one knows anything about these types of dynos

 

If you take your car to 4 different dyno's on the same day, you WILL get 4 differtent numbers. Even if they are the same type of dyno. There are too many variables to make any dyno give you an absolute accurate number. Want a bigger number?, just point a hair drier at the interface to fudge the ambient tempurature and don't post the correction factor, instant bigger number, cool!!! , but not accurate..

So to baseline a car to judge future mods, just use the same dyno and hope that the ambient conditions are similar on the next test day.
The best dyno is the one that can be loaded down to allow you to tune your car effectively, not the one that will give you the biggest single run wot number.

 

so with a mustang dyno you keep your wheels on, but a dyno pak attaches to the hub which would yield high numbers but i guess its all good just depending on what i want to do the place that has the mustang dyno is not who i want to do my engine work and the place with the dyno pak will probably be doing my engine work

 

You sound like your wanting to race dynos. What you should do is just go to the dyno pak and get a baseline, then after your mods go back to the SAME dyno and get your new numbers and your tune.

 

yup^^^^

 

i heard mustangs read about 12% lower than dyno packs. this is from the guys at XXTuning in CT. my buddy's STi was dyno packed and my Z was on the mustang and he said i needed to add about 12% to get the real whp figure.

if you're doing it for relative power for baseline and each mod you do, just make sure you use the same dyno every time you pull. if you're doing it for sheer accuracy, use the dyno pack.

 

ok then ill use the dyno pak, but since the wheel hp loss will not be recorded on that what % should i expect the wheels to take away from the power?

 

Youre really not getting the point here man, atleast thats the way it seems to me. People are trying to tell you that the number itself means nothing, its just something you want to know before you do mods to see what kind of gain they gave you. No matter what you do and what correction factor you apply to a given dyno number, youre never going to know what youre making at the crank unless you take the engine out of the car and put it on an engine dyno. Just use the rating that GM provides even if it is underrated. Because it doesnt matter one bit how much horsepower your car makes. All that matters is how it uses it, ie. what cars you can beat with it and what track times you can run with it. Bragging or even talking about horsepower isnt cool until you get above 300bhp anyways

So use whatever dyno you want. And if you really care that much about having a bhp number, apply 15-17% to whatever the whp number comes out to. For example if you make 145hp on a dyno, multiply 145 by .15 and add that number to 145....145x.15=21.75....21.75+145=166bhp.
Now get off the internet and go to a local track and get some baseline times. If you see a dyno shop on the way there, pass it and pretend it wasnt even there.

 

i understand what everyone is saying but im not trying to get a bhp # im trying to see if the n/a ss is underrated like the ss/sc is for my own curiosity

 

Youre never gonna find out if its underrated unless you strap the engine to an engine dyno.

 

^^i think we're trying to find out if the claimed 205hp is at the wheels or the crank.
most manufacturers quote at the crank...example: stock 350Z, 287hp at the crank, 234-237whp.

if the cobalt puts down more than 205 at the wheels stock, then it's definitely way underrated.

what is the drivetrain loss on the SS S/C anyways btw?

 

^^ No he wants too see if the non SC SS would be underated by GM as well. We all know that the SS/SC is.

 

exactly

 

ohhhhh riiiiiiiight

man i gots ta learn me how to read good