yeah so anyway, like this little ****** has room to talk, look at his rice.....




this would be who insulted everyone. you see this car just **** with him

 

Yeah you will lose boost, if you just shift and are not in higher rpm's. Anyway im going to bed, as said i worked a double. Welcome to the site, sorry my ricer moron gave ya ****.



One more thing. Here is a vid of the supercharger whine,a.k.a. boost. it aint gonna be so loud for you since your stock but you'll still hear it, when you hear it, that is when you are getting boost.



Whine/Boost

 

Your car should make its most power from around that RPM (3500 or so) to redline. That's called your powerband.

When you want to be fast as possible, you want to shift as close to redline as possible without hitting the rev limiter when accelerating. If you shift fast, you'll end up right back at 3500RPM in the next gear. Keeping your car in its powerband this way is how you drive fast. As you go through the gears, (fourth gear, for example), you may end up in only maybe 3000RPM, but that's okay, because engines build boost at lower RPM when they are under load.

If you are on a road course, when your RPMs hit 3000 or so under braking, you want to downshift - once again, maintaining a position in your powerband, so when you accelerate again, you're not stuck in too high a gear in too low an RPM.

 

LOL kick your friends ass!!!

 

well after watching those videos, there's no way im getting a "boost" in 1st going less than 5KM. Clearly, you need some serious speed.

 

You don't need to worry about losing boost with a supercharger. Yes, you'll lose it for a split second, but once you're in the next gear, boost will be instantaneous. You don't need to powershift, and I don't recommend it, either. Just push in the clutch, shift SMOOTHLY (i.e. don't jam into the next gear), and let the clutch out. Powershifting is for racing transmissions that are meant to be driven that way. Powershifting your stock transmission will only kill your synchros.

 

Sorry laser, we need to see the pictures of you buddy all beat up, to know for sure that you weren't really just drunk when the posts originally happened.

 

Thanks to all you gurus, I went out and tried it. By third gear and 3000RPM, boost was engaged. Now, my boost gauge reads in PSI (I think..i cant believe i dont remember) but anyway, below 0 it goes -10, -20, -30, etc. During regular driving im at -50 to -60 and once I hit third or fourth gear around 3000 RPM, boost went to +10 to +20. I havnt been able to hear the "whine" yet, but I finally understand the boost speed. You just receive alot more acceleration.

I want to thank you all for helping me. Each one of you!

Thanks!!!!!


However, I noticed the extra push again tonight coming home. This time I went up my driveway (small, small incline) but in 2nd gear, at around 10 KM, the car boost me forward...any ideas?

 

have you ever drove a stick before?? sometimes when you are slowing down below what speed the gear can handle it will pulse like this.

 

You may not notice the whine as much on a stock one. Listen to some of the videos on streetfire.net of cobalts dynoing and you will hear a very noticeable whine. If you like the sound, you can have a mechanic install an intake filter, or intake pipe and filter which will make the sound much more noticeable. The higher the RPM, the more noticeable the sound will be. Stock whine isnt all that loud.

 

Have I drove stick with years of experience, no. Have I atleast tried it before, yes.

Well, what you described there is definitely what is happening. Other than keeping the clutch engaged, whats a way of avoiding this?

It just makes me uneasy, especially when parking in tight spots to have the car pulse forward like that.

 

You might have to slip the clutch some more. I think that you are also feeling the effects of the electronic throttle valve keeping the engine from stalling. It will give you a little gas when engaging the clutch. Also you should know that the boost is regulated by boost by pass valve and engine speed. That is were if you go up a hill parts come into play. EX going on flat ground the engine does not need to work as hard. Going up a hill the engine needs to produce more poser to keep the car the same speed. The boost bypass vale will close and allow boost to increase the power output of the engine to keep the car at the same speed. As for going up your little drive way I would just slip the clutch up it with the engine at 1200 RPM to 1500RPM. And that should make it so you do not have any power surges from the electronic throttle control at lower RMP like around 700 to 900 RPM.

 

Yea, thats exactly whats happening. I would be in first, very low RPM, low speed (less than 5KM) and the car surges forward.

Is that because the rpm is too low for 1st? and by slipping the clutch, does that mean keeping it engaged/riding it?

 

Yes, the RPM's are too low. When the car senses that you are moving it will try to keep the rpm at 1500. Hench the surge. So what I do is just ride the clutch for slow moving like in a parking lot or drive way. Its not to hard and really will not wear out the clutch as long as you keep the revs down low.

 

If your car is from canada the guage will be in killopascals or kpa

 

As much as I'd like to keep offering help in this thread, all my forum experience makes me believe we're just getting jerked around right now...

 

Come on dude, don't be a ***** about this, he didn't really want the car, he probably doesn't know much about the Cobalt line, he just won it and decided to ask Cobalt aficionados about it, so lighten up.

 

GODDAMMIT RICERS! BURN THE ******* RICERS IN A DEATH CAMP! HATE RICERS! HATE RICERS!

 

Slipping the clutch is keeping the pedal right at the engagement point, to keep the car moving smoothly.

A practiced foot could also keep very light pressure on the throttle to keep the car moving forward...but not actually accelerating.

BTW, just to clear this up, when the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch is disengaged...the clutch is engaged when your foot is not on the pedal.

For low speed manuvering you probably just want to disengage the clutch and then smoothly engage it again if needed.

 

Yea.. i have been working with that. I have been keeping the clutch depressed and tap the brake after im about half way up my incline. At this point, it seems to be working well. The car sort of just creeps into its spot.

So, that pretty much concludes the boost stuff. Next topic. Tires!

I have noticed Firelli tires on the SS/SC (in canada anyway). Out of goodyear and firelli, which would be the way to go? ( I hear firelli is very highly rated)

 

The canadian boost gauge is different than the US's... is it possible to buy a US one and put it in? (I forget how canada's measures, but i know US's is PSI... which is more universal)

 

From what I've heard Pirelli makes some bad ass tires. And on a completely unrealated note, does the SC have some sort of anti-stall mechanism on it, so that you can't stall the car out?

 

No. The SS/SC stalls like any other stick. Try to teach your fiance how to drive a stick and you will find out

 

Wow I dont think forums are for teaching people how to drive stick. Have a parent or someone help you learn how to drive stick.

 

Believe it or not it does, TO AN EXTENT.

Take the clutch out half way, to the point where it moves the car forward without touching the gas. Now, take it out a little further and your lights will dim and the car will nearly stall. At some point between that halfway point and stalling, the car will apply throttle FOR YOU, pretty much as a recovery attempt so you wont stall it (this is the surging x1zero mentioned in his driveway). At that point you should push the clutch back in a bit so it wont stall. If you just keep letting out the clutch though it will still stall like any other car.