Brake Problem?
Alright, so if the original OEM caliper the car comes with is "so holy grail good" then why do they fail? It's not buying inferior parts, instead it's buying parts that are readily available, for way less money, and that consist of the same parts (metal, piston, bolts, guides etc). Some people have it in their head that OEM parts are the only way to go for every single part, and while it's true some if not most OEM parts are better than aftermarket, it's not true for everything. I mean if OEM was always better than aftermarket would GM have put Brembo calipers on the LNF's? Some of it, not all, is a marketing scheme that they try to make people afraid to use cheaper parts of the same if not better quality than OEM so that they can make you purchase these parts from them and make big money. At the end of they day. I searched for OEM calipers and found some which were way to expensive, so instead I replaced with one built to OEM specifications and the car is doing great now. I mean according to CED the right side caliper is already discontinued so what are people going to do when they need these "holy grail" caliper in the future? I'll tell you: they'll either bite the bullet and upgrade to Brembo's, or replace with whatever they can find as I did.
We do not know if the quality is as good as OEM just because it says it was built to OEM specs, but we also don't know that it isn't either, right?
I didn't buy the part for the return policy, I bought the part to make my vehicle work, which it does now.
The main point here is "we don't know" so it's easier to assume it isn't as good, than say it's just as good "just because". OEM parts make people feel better about their cars, it's physiological. They'd rather pay the big money for OEM parts because they feel like they're buying the "right" part and paying up for quality, and again sometimes that's true, but not all the time aka marketing scheme.
I'm happy with the calipers from O Reilys, but if others feel the need to pay 160 a caliper for OEM that soon will not be able to be found them so be it, but not me. Those same people will be in the line at one of the local auto parts stores for some built to OEM specs eventually.
Thanks for your insight. Take care.
Thanks,
CW
We do not know if the quality is as good as OEM just because it says it was built to OEM specs, but we also don't know that it isn't either, right?
I didn't buy the part for the return policy, I bought the part to make my vehicle work, which it does now.
The main point here is "we don't know" so it's easier to assume it isn't as good, than say it's just as good "just because". OEM parts make people feel better about their cars, it's physiological. They'd rather pay the big money for OEM parts because they feel like they're buying the "right" part and paying up for quality, and again sometimes that's true, but not all the time aka marketing scheme.
I'm happy with the calipers from O Reilys, but if others feel the need to pay 160 a caliper for OEM that soon will not be able to be found them so be it, but not me. Those same people will be in the line at one of the local auto parts stores for some built to OEM specs eventually.
Thanks for your insight. Take care.
Thanks,
CW
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From: Tennessee
Originally Posted by umrdyldo
Almost any car can have a caliper go bad, the SSTC stock Brembo calipers are known to fail after enough time. There isn't a part at OReilly that is even close to comparing to that. It's your car. Do as you please, but you are wrong. Unless you go with a known better part, you likely got an inferior part from O'Reilly. Sucks, but there is a reason you paid half.
As I've mentioned, people trade their cores in when purchasing calipers from local stores. If the calipers are going to be discontinued then eventually everyone will trade their cores in to local auto parts stores and these OEM spec calipers will be the actual OEM caliper metal that's been cleaned up in a vat, and has had a new seal added to it. You can "overthink it" and assume all OEM spec parts are lesser quality, or you can look at the facts. There's no proof that these OEM spec calipers aren't as good of quality as actual OEM, it's just a physiological theory that people have came up with. Support your theory.
Unfortunately for everyone, I have way better things to do then please everyone with the brand of brake caliper I have installed on my car. You pay the 160 per caliper for the OEM caliper from the dealer if you want, and I'll stick to my 50 dollar a piece calipers. Either way I'm happy with my purchase.
Thanks,
CW
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Okay I just drove the car after replacing all of this stuff and while coasting/slowing down from 60mph on highway the pedal traveled pretty far down and I believe it would have went to the floor if I would have wanted it too. So I am thinking the master cylinder is my culprit here, what does everyone think?
Thanks,
CW
Thanks,
CW
Okay I just drove the car after replacing all of this stuff and while coasting/slowing down from 60mph on highway the pedal traveled pretty far down and I believe it would have went to the floor if I would have wanted it too. So I am thinking the master cylinder is my culprit here, what does everyone think?
Thanks,
CW
Thanks,
CW
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From: Tennessee
Just went out and checked for external leaks around calipers, master cylinder (inside the car and outside), and the brake fluid is still full. I have no idea what it could be other than maybe the master cylinder slowly leaking internally maybe??? Any ideas?
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PART 1 - Brake pedal goes to floor
Part 1 here describes how my car did exactly the first time the pedal went to the floor in Knoxvegas.
If you don't want to click on the link then here's what it says: Many of us have experienced it at some time or other: You're sitting at a light, pressing softly on the pedal, just enough to hold the car still, and the pedal slowly begins descending, all the way to the floor. You think you're imagining it, but down it goes. Just to be sure, you let the pedal rise again and stomp on it, but now it stays up! What's going on?
If you get the symptoms above (very gentle, soft application slowly drops the pedal to the floor; hard application sees it remain high) then your master cylinder seals are worn out or damaged. If you had a line leak, or a leak at one of the wheels, the pedal would go to the floor at all times, however slowly. Pushing hard or soft would not change that.
Eventually, if you're dumb enough to drive with a pedal that goes to the floor, it will go to the floor all the time when you press the pedal, but you'd have to ignore the symptoms for a long time.
Line leaks and wheel cylinder leaks eventually result in obvious fluid on the backs of the tires, or on your driveway. And the reservoir level will drop. Air in the lines can also cause the pedal to go to the floor, by usually results in a spongy, soft pedal. Master cylinder leaks are invisible. No drips, no wet spots, no change in the reservoir level. All you have is the dropping, spongy pedal.
What to do about it? There's only one thing: Replace it. It's easier than you might think.
And my response to this great link of information is: Thanks Honda for contributing something useful to society finally, now only if Canada would... LOL
Part 1 here describes how my car did exactly the first time the pedal went to the floor in Knoxvegas.
If you don't want to click on the link then here's what it says: Many of us have experienced it at some time or other: You're sitting at a light, pressing softly on the pedal, just enough to hold the car still, and the pedal slowly begins descending, all the way to the floor. You think you're imagining it, but down it goes. Just to be sure, you let the pedal rise again and stomp on it, but now it stays up! What's going on?
If you get the symptoms above (very gentle, soft application slowly drops the pedal to the floor; hard application sees it remain high) then your master cylinder seals are worn out or damaged. If you had a line leak, or a leak at one of the wheels, the pedal would go to the floor at all times, however slowly. Pushing hard or soft would not change that.
Eventually, if you're dumb enough to drive with a pedal that goes to the floor, it will go to the floor all the time when you press the pedal, but you'd have to ignore the symptoms for a long time.
Line leaks and wheel cylinder leaks eventually result in obvious fluid on the backs of the tires, or on your driveway. And the reservoir level will drop. Air in the lines can also cause the pedal to go to the floor, by usually results in a spongy, soft pedal. Master cylinder leaks are invisible. No drips, no wet spots, no change in the reservoir level. All you have is the dropping, spongy pedal.
What to do about it? There's only one thing: Replace it. It's easier than you might think.
And my response to this great link of information is: Thanks Honda for contributing something useful to society finally, now only if Canada would... LOL
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Called Chevy dealer today and they said 205 dollars for the labor to replace the brake master cylinder. Does this seem like a fair price? I have replaced a master cylinder before in a Eclipse I used to own, but I can't afford to mess this car up because I need it for Fall semester of college. Also does anyone have a recommendation of where and what brand brake master cylinder to get?
Thanks
Thanks
if you checked for leaks really well, the first thing I would do is bleed the brakes. Multiple times.
With a power bleeder if you have to. That will insure you have no air in the lines.
Also, putting a bleeder on the master cylinder might show you if it's leaking, so it might be a double positive.
I suggest this:
https://goo.gl/mk7xKi
As far as replacing the master cylinder, never done it, not sure I would, but if GM rates it at 2-3 hrs, then I'm sure it's not too bad.
With a power bleeder if you have to. That will insure you have no air in the lines.
Also, putting a bleeder on the master cylinder might show you if it's leaking, so it might be a double positive.
I suggest this:
https://goo.gl/mk7xKi
As far as replacing the master cylinder, never done it, not sure I would, but if GM rates it at 2-3 hrs, then I'm sure it's not too bad.
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Joined: 10-01-15
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From: Tennessee
if you checked for leaks really well, the first thing I would do is bleed the brakes. Multiple times.
With a power bleeder if you have to. That will insure you have no air in the lines.
Also, putting a bleeder on the master cylinder might show you if it's leaking, so it might be a double positive.
I suggest this:
https://goo.gl/mk7xKi
As far as replacing the master cylinder, never done it, not sure I would, but if GM rates it at 2-3 hrs, then I'm sure it's not too bad.
With a power bleeder if you have to. That will insure you have no air in the lines.
Also, putting a bleeder on the master cylinder might show you if it's leaking, so it might be a double positive.
I suggest this:
https://goo.gl/mk7xKi
As far as replacing the master cylinder, never done it, not sure I would, but if GM rates it at 2-3 hrs, then I'm sure it's not too bad.
What is described in that link is exactly what happened to me in Knoxvegas: Applying light pressure to the brake pedal to hold the car in position, and it feels as if the pedal is sinking further towards the floor, but its almost as if you're imagining it, but sure enough the pedal is sinking to the floor. I had to pull the brake pedal out of the floor, literally, in order to take off and get out of the road lol.
I would like to have one of those power bleeders. Do any auto parts stores rent them by chance?
Thanks!
You were were handy you could build one with an extra cobalt resevoir cap for about half that cost
The DIY $20 brake bleeder
Otherwise I haven't seen one for rent.
The DIY $20 brake bleeder
Otherwise I haven't seen one for rent.
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I don't have an extra cap laying around, if I did then I know I could build one. Right now I'm just debating whether I should just try to replace the master cylinder myself, or pay the dealer 205 dollars plus parts to do it. Also I'm trying to debate which brand master cylinder to buy and from where. You can get reman AC Delco ones from GM Parts Direct, reman A1 Cardone from Summit Racing, or you can buy an in house brand from a local auto parts store. All of them see to be about the same price about 70-80 bucks, without the reservoir.
What do y'all think?
What do y'all think?
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Okay I honestly want to know: What makes AC Delco better than store bought parts such as Wearever or A1 Cardone etc? From what I am reading online AC Delco is made in China, probably just as all the others are as well. I can get a Wearever one today from Advance Auto Parts for 70 something dollars, or the AC Delco one is 140 something dollars and I'll be waiting a week on it more than likely. Just want some evidence that the AC Delco is really worth 2 times the cost plus waiting on it?
Also most ridiculous thing of the day: My Chevrolet service center informed me that the cost of the brake master cylinder with reservoir through them is 600 something dollars, or they can get an aftermarket one without the reservoir for 500 something! This is the most ridiculous price for a brake master cylinder that I have ever heard of LOL. I told them that I can get the AC Delco part for 140 bucks, and asked if I bought it and they installed it if the work would be warrantied and they said no the part has to be bought through them. So I am going to change the brake master cylinder myself.
Also most ridiculous thing of the day: My Chevrolet service center informed me that the cost of the brake master cylinder with reservoir through them is 600 something dollars, or they can get an aftermarket one without the reservoir for 500 something! This is the most ridiculous price for a brake master cylinder that I have ever heard of LOL. I told them that I can get the AC Delco part for 140 bucks, and asked if I bought it and they installed it if the work would be warrantied and they said no the part has to be bought through them. So I am going to change the brake master cylinder myself.
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Okay I honestly want to know: What makes AC Delco better than store bought parts such as Wearever or A1 Cardone etc? From what I am reading online AC Delco is made in China, probably just as all the others are as well. I can get a Wearever one today from Advance Auto Parts for 70 something dollars, or the AC Delco one is 140 something dollars and I'll be waiting a week on it more than likely. Just want some evidence that the AC Delco is really worth 2 times the cost plus waiting on it?
Also most ridiculous thing of the day: My Chevrolet service center informed me that the cost of the brake master cylinder with reservoir through them is 600 something dollars, or they can get an aftermarket one without the reservoir for 500 something! This is the most ridiculous price for a brake master cylinder that I have ever heard of LOL. I told them that I can get the AC Delco part for 140 bucks, and asked if I bought it and they installed it if the work would be warrantied and they said no the part has to be bought through them. So I am going to change the brake master cylinder myself.
Also most ridiculous thing of the day: My Chevrolet service center informed me that the cost of the brake master cylinder with reservoir through them is 600 something dollars, or they can get an aftermarket one without the reservoir for 500 something! This is the most ridiculous price for a brake master cylinder that I have ever heard of LOL. I told them that I can get the AC Delco part for 140 bucks, and asked if I bought it and they installed it if the work would be warrantied and they said no the part has to be bought through them. So I am going to change the brake master cylinder myself.
Now I don't know if a service department will install an aftermarket part that you bring in. You might need a side mechanic to install something aftermarket.
Okay I honestly want to know: What makes AC Delco better than store bought parts such as Wearever or A1 Cardone etc? From what I am reading online AC Delco is made in China, probably just as all the others are as well. I can get a Wearever one today from Advance Auto Parts for 70 something dollars, or the AC Delco one is 140 something dollars and I'll be waiting a week on it more than likely. Just want some evidence that the AC Delco is really worth 2 times the cost plus waiting on it?
Also most ridiculous thing of the day: My Chevrolet service center informed me that the cost of the brake master cylinder with reservoir through them is 600 something dollars, or they can get an aftermarket one without the reservoir for 500 something! This is the most ridiculous price for a brake master cylinder that I have ever heard of LOL. I told them that I can get the AC Delco part for 140 bucks, and asked if I bought it and they installed it if the work would be warrantied and they said no the part has to be bought through them. So I am going to change the brake master cylinder myself.
Also most ridiculous thing of the day: My Chevrolet service center informed me that the cost of the brake master cylinder with reservoir through them is 600 something dollars, or they can get an aftermarket one without the reservoir for 500 something! This is the most ridiculous price for a brake master cylinder that I have ever heard of LOL. I told them that I can get the AC Delco part for 140 bucks, and asked if I bought it and they installed it if the work would be warrantied and they said no the part has to be bought through them. So I am going to change the brake master cylinder myself.
Do you honestly trust your local vatozone to know the difference between a JM4 and JL9 brake system? (which btw you have the JL9 if it's a 05-07 SS)
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AC Delco is the stock part. Do you ever go faster than 100mph? If no then go with the cheap part because you won't be stressing it to what the engineers tested and spec'd everything for. The off brands broaden their tolerances and try to cross cover parts as much as possible. So the potential of getting the wrong Master Cylinder (which I suspect is the one they have) is much greater. If you get the AC Delco one through a VIN match you'll get the correct part.
Do you honestly trust your local vatozone to know the difference between a JM4 and JL9 brake system? (which btw you have the JL9 if it's a 05-07 SS)
Do you honestly trust your local vatozone to know the difference between a JM4 and JL9 brake system? (which btw you have the JL9 if it's a 05-07 SS)
Also, no I do not go 100mph, and I would be surprised if many of us did, besides those that go to the track. I have that luck that if I go 45mph in a 40mph theres always a state trooper not far behind LOL. Whereas, I get passed by people going 70mph in a 30mph and seem to never get stopped lol.
I would "say" that the AC Delco one is of better quality, but that is my guess with no factual evidence backing that assumption up. I look at it this way: The AC Delco one on the car now failed without me going 100mph and braking, so if the cheaper aftermarket one at the auto parts store fails then did it do any worse than the twice the price AC Delco one?
Do you know of a write up on the forum for replacing the brake master cylinder by chance? I looked and couldn't find one. I could only find write up's on the clutch master cylinder.
Thanks
You keep saying because a part has failed that it is known to fail.
You are talking about 10-11 year old parts that actively used on a car all the time.
So by your logic you could reverse that and say, WOW the stock part lasted 10-11 years, and I can figure that the second part could have a similar lifespan. So you know the ACDelco part will last 10 known years. Is that extra $5-7 a year worth it to you? Is your car worth that to you?
The answer is.. yes it's worth that cost.
If you are this cheap, then maybe you should look into doing the work yourself and save the $200 in labor.
You are talking about 10-11 year old parts that actively used on a car all the time.
So by your logic you could reverse that and say, WOW the stock part lasted 10-11 years, and I can figure that the second part could have a similar lifespan. So you know the ACDelco part will last 10 known years. Is that extra $5-7 a year worth it to you? Is your car worth that to you?
The answer is.. yes it's worth that cost.
If you are this cheap, then maybe you should look into doing the work yourself and save the $200 in labor.
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You keep saying because a part has failed that it is known to fail.
You are talking about 10-11 year old parts that actively used on a car all the time.
So by your logic you could reverse that and say, WOW the stock part lasted 10-11 years, and I can figure that the second part could have a similar lifespan. So you know the ACDelco part will last 10 known years. Is that extra $5-7 a year worth it to you? Is your car worth that to you?
The answer is.. yes it's worth that cost.
If you are this cheap, then maybe you should look into doing the work yourself and save the $200 in labor.
You are talking about 10-11 year old parts that actively used on a car all the time.
So by your logic you could reverse that and say, WOW the stock part lasted 10-11 years, and I can figure that the second part could have a similar lifespan. So you know the ACDelco part will last 10 known years. Is that extra $5-7 a year worth it to you? Is your car worth that to you?
The answer is.. yes it's worth that cost.
If you are this cheap, then maybe you should look into doing the work yourself and save the $200 in labor.
I agree that my logic could be reversed to say "Wow this AC Delco part has lasted 10 years", and I considered that part when I stated my logic.
I am not cheap, its called I am not made of money right now lol. I am the last person to be called cheap on a car considering I had a SN95 Mustang that I swapped a pushrod small block 308 into and I sank about twenty thousand dollars into of only the best parts money could buy ex: TrickFlow aluminum heads, March performance polished billet aluminum pulleys and brackets, quick 1 transmission controller, Harland Sharp Full Roller Rockers, Hardened Pushrods, Custom Ground cam 280/480 adv 110lsa, MLS head gaskets, Quick Fuel SS carb, Koni Str.t etc etc. the list goes on and on and on.
So seeing that I have, and will, sink money into quality parts for a car when necessary. Honestly if the AC Delco part was available at one of my local auto parts store I would buy it for the 140, I just don't want to wait lol.
Also I have already stated that I am going to do the work myself on the car.
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Here's the 1979 Chevy Nova Custom Cabriolet I used to have. 98% all original with only 48k miles. All numbers matching with original build sheet. I'd say not many people have owned cars like these before they were even 21 years old haha! Just thought y'all would like to see!
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I went and got a master cylinder and I started removing the one on the car now. Trying to remove the fuse box to give me some more room, but the "how to" on removing the fuse box on this site shows two 13mm bolts that hold the fuse box base in under the ECU and I cannot find those bolts! Does any one know exactly where these bolts are at?
Thanks
Thanks