ttrawicki1

new clutch, new slave cylinder, 2 new master cylinders (oem). some how i keep getting air/losing clutch peddle pressure. its not leaking a drop of brake fluid anywhere. anyone have a clue whats going on here?

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Did you replace the clutch pipe/seal where it attaches to the block on the top of the transmission?

ttrawicki1

the pipe yes not so sure about the seal. if i didnt put seal there wouldnt it leak brake fluid?

QuickSilver_SS

Not necisarily. Bit it will not hold pressure and let air into the system constintly if the seal is missing. I bet that is your problem. Its a really small seal too. But cause a huge pain if not there.

shadowfaxss

iTrader: (3)

You would have fluid loss if the seal were leaking. How did you bleed the hydraulics? The best and most effective way is the vacuum bleed process. You don't contaminate everything with fluid and the pedal turns out to be nice and solid. There are many threads on here about bleeding the clutch hydraulics.

ttrawicki1

shop bledit with a pressure bleeder for over an hour. seriously still happens. stuck a camera in inspection plate and watched throw out bearing move with no leaks. put 2 clutch master cylinders in. maybe those seals are the problem. please tell me i dont have to drop the tranny?

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

air bleeders dont always do the trick unless your sucking the air out of the cap(reverse style bleed).

the best way is to do a manual bleed similar to doing brakes. try that.

whenever you do a clutch the tob, clutch pipe, distribution block should ALWAYS be replaced with
OEM parts. if it wasent replaced the clutch pipe seal is probably letting a bit of air into the system or is not on correctly. it should be removed and put onto the clutch pipe first then then block then your clips. not put in the block. you wont lose fluid if you have a tiny air leak only if it was major. .

ttrawicki1

i gotta say i appreciate your guys help. would of never thought in a million years this would be the problem. i will take the actuator off tomorrow and look at the seals. if the seal looks bad ill order another clutch pipe just for a seal thats not a problem. i work crazy hours and my roommates out of town so do you think it would be ok to gravity bleed it? and on the seal do you guys recommend putting any silicone or sealant around it?

if you guys could stick with me on this thread i would much appreciate it can use all the help i can get!!! and honestly this seems like the only possible thing it could be.

thanks again guys

shadowfaxss

iTrader: (3)

If you have a tool similar to the mighty vac used for bleeding brakes....try that. I purchased another master cylinder cap and put a barb fitting through the middle.
Pump the the clutch pedal. Initially pull vacuum of 15 pounds for 10 minutes. Release the vacuum, pump the pedal again. Pull vacuum of 15 pounds for five minutes. Repeat this process until you get a continuous firm pedal. It may take you an hour to bleed in this fashion.....but you won't have an issue....ever.

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

Do not use seslent around the seals.

Manual bleeds work best and are quickest.

kzak104

iTrader: (1)

this^^^ people seem to think that pressure bleeding is the only way to bleed a clutch... i find manual fast and works the best.

ttrawicki1

You guys truly think it's got air in it? Im almost positive it's more then that. I have a great feeling pedal then it losses pressure. Pump it up works good for a while then does it again.

ttrawicki1

I've even went as far as leaving the clutch pedal pushed to the floor for 3 days straight to force the air out. Great pedal feel then gone again

ttrawicki1

Pictures of what it all looks like after removed

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ttrawicki1

Last pic won't upload. This is what all I found when tore it apart though. The boot was stuck in slave actuator elbow. No damage to boot though. If you look in the actuator elbow itself where the line from the clutch master went it's very dirty almost as if it was leaking or something. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should do or parts I should order?

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Is what you're calling the "actuator elbow" the part that's in picture 04? I'm going to call that the distribution block, fyi. The inside of the distribution block definitely looks really dirty. Pretty gross. The seal that you're holding in picture 05 comes with the clutch pipe, whose end is sticking out of the bellhousing. I'd think that would be the seal that would prevent the inside of there from getting dirty. I'm not sure that you can get that seal by itself. The clutch pipe is like $13. I'm not going to tell you that the seal is your problem, but here's my experience with it:

Buttoned up the trans, connected clutch lines, filled reservoir, started bleeding, then fluid started dripping steadily from the bottom of the bellhousing. I used a vacuum pump attached to the reservoir (got a tub drain plug, put a brake nipple through it, connected to my hand pump. Cost $5, highly recommend for this). When I applied vacuum, I got constant bubbles through the reservoir. Took a break because I thought I was going to have to pull the whole **** thing apart again. Came back, removed the distribution block, found that I didn't have the seal on the new pipe. Used the old seal on the new block (found the new seal a month later on the floor). Attached everything up again, filled, bled, and works like a charm.

ttrawicki1

Yes that is what I'm talking about. The only problem is that the dirty nasty part is the part where the line from the clutch master hooks into. Do you think the o ring is bad? I'm not having problems with fluid leaking my problem is air keeps getting in the system. As stated above everything is new in the tranny clutch slave I've even put two oem master cylinders thinking the internal seals are bad but somehow air keeps getting in. I'm stumped. Keep in mind I'm not losing any brake fluid at all. Any ideas? People have stated air can leak through these seals without leaking fluid.

ttrawicki1

With looking at how dirty this is inside I'm starting to think the o ring is bad on the clutch master cylinder line

Omiotek

iTrader: (2)

your distribution block is gross......

honestly for what it costs to replace it along with the clutch pipe i do not understand why people dont pay for it. clearly it looks like someone was beating on your block too from the massive gouges in it. remember its only aluminum.

my best guess is the little seal is shot and with the nasty dirt its allowing air in while your actuate the clutch. it might now be enough to get a leak going but its probablly enough to introduce some air with the movement. the whole system moves a bit when you actuate the clutch. i wont even do a clutch for someone unless they by a new tob, clutch pipe and distribution block.

ALWAYS MANUAL BLEED THESE TRANSMISSIONS. even after you do a vacuum bleed. like i said i have not found a better way to do it. Gravity bleeding is not the same either.

one other thing to look for is if your carpet is worn out. the higher mileage cars that have worn carpets seem to have an issue with over extending the clutch pedal since they use the carpet as a stop. as it wears away the clutch pedal gets pushed further and further resulting in over extension of the clutch master. your seals blow internally with no signs of a leak. Thats a long shot for most cars but i have had to deal with it twice now.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Get a new bleeder block.
It is a $20 part.
I replaced mine and it solved the issue you are having.