my ss has had stage 2 installed for about 700 miles car only has 1500 miles on it i have not smoked thi tires or shifted without letting off the throttle and my clutch slips when u run the gears up and grab the next i also have the lsd is this to much strain on stock clutch has anyone else had this problem and does gm offer a stronger clutch thanks

 

What gears does it slip in? Just the 1-->2 shift?

 

mostly

 

not to Hijack here but what happens when when your clutch slips?


.

 

Have you been shifting at 3k?

It doesnt grab while shifting...

 

Yes try shifting at 3k rpms like hack suggested.

Also read this thread: https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/drivetrain-79/how-make-your-clutch-stop-slipping-find-out-inside-36130/

The gist of it is that our clutches are temperamental, and more specifically on the 1-->2 shift.

Try this:
Get going in 1st gear up to 3k rpms
Quickly depress the clutch, shift into 2nd, and release the clutch. Try to do this before the rpms get a chance to drop down to 2k rpms.
If done successfully, you should have a firm shift into 2nd. Granted its not the smoothest, but it is alot better than glazing your clutch by slipping it so much.

I've personally learned to do a smooth shift into 2nd without any slippage at all, but it requires hands on practice. Basically you apply a little throttle between the shift so that when you reach 2nd gear the clutch and flywheel are moving at the same speed and you have a solid, seamless engagement without having to slip the clutch.

 

it does it high rpms im not talking about normal driving i pulled out in front of a car that i had to accel pretty hard ran it up in the rpms grabbed second the rpms stayed up for a split sec after releasing the clutch and then dropped i kwow this is not normal i just wanted to know if it is to be expected with stage 2 on car and if i have dealer install a new clutch under my warranty is it going to burn it up again or did i just get a bad clutch from factory or do i need a hiperf clutch i believe it is most likly a flaw on my factory but i wanted to know if anyone else has had this problem also

 

I'm saying you have to shift at 3k all the time though..

It's not a bad clutch, you've just glazed it. You have to break it back in and adjust your driving habits to make it work correctly

 

yea i understand what you are saying i went to the site pyros posted above thank alot guys great advice i appreciate the help

 

I would love to do a blind survey of what people consider clutch slip. Most people are referring to a soft engagement, not actual slip. When you have your foot off the clutch and you step on the gas and the engine revs up but the car does not accellerate, that is slip. What most people get on here is sloppy engagement from glazing/overheating the clutch. I got slip in my car once a while back after 3 hard runs out of the hole, on the third one the clutch gave up in the middle of second. The factory clutch could use a lot more clamping force.

 

my clutch is like that too... its so embarrassing when u go to race and its a car u know u should smash and they just take off on ya.... good thing the guy slowed down and let me regain my composure

 

shifted car at 3k everytime today done alot of driving then this evening i tached her out grabbed second and there was wheel spin she no longer slips on the shift thanks once again

 

get the pads replace with the copper ones only like 150$ instead of a new clutch

 

not trying to say youre wrong but in my opinion if my foot is off the clutch if i have just shifted or was already in gear if its glazing or burnt clutch if my rpms and my speed dont match thats all slipping to me

 

I slipped my clutch once when i was first learning to drive my cobalt ss/sc.

Notice I said "I slipped my clutch", not "my clutch slipped"

The fact is a slipping clutch is an operator issue.

When it happened....I realised what I had done....took careful note of what I did WRONG, and adjusted my driving style to avoid the problem in the future.

I now have stage 2, gmpp catback, AEM dryflow dropin, and havent had a slip since the day I did it once.

that includes track passes.

 

a slipping clutch is a clutch that is usually worn or damaged and can not handle the strain of turning the tires under presure so it slips you can not slip your clutch with it released you can feather your clutch which is slightly riding the pedal pressing and releasing or you can double clutch both are to reduce wheel spin or you can be to slow at releasing your clutch and burn it up but a slipping clutch is not a driver error it comes frome being worn or damaged or to much power and traction to stay enguaged

 

hmmm here's my usual post..
18,850 miles now... over 290 whp for most that time, stock clutch, 35-50 passes on the strip maybe 20-30 races on the street,,,, clutch has never slipped once.

difficult to get used to, yes... but it actually holds pretty damn good if given the proper break in period (at least 1000 miles) before WOT runs with it...

 

The SS/SC clutch is just very sensitive to driving personality and is very prone to getting glazed if not used properly. We need a sticky on this

 

Right. I am able to get a solid chirp with a medium-fast 1-2 shift. It works fine as long as you don't overheat it all day while you drive the car. I try to avoid excess feathering of the clutch on the street, just what is needed to get the car moving from a stop and shift gears smooth enough to not look like a retard.

 

while I agree with what your saying in essence.
I strongly disagree that what your talking about is the issue with 95% of the cobalts who complain of a "slipping clutch"


But thats my opinion.

 

I have to finally vent. Our drive train is not the best. I think it has to be the pressure plate.

When I would drive my buddys mustang, that mother would hook up as if the clutch and the flywheel was glued together. He could burn rubber all the way through third easily.

I know for a fact that his cluth has been abused beyond belief(stang) doing 2nd and 3rd gear burnouts, but I could not get it to slip no matter what.

Our drivetrain is the culprit, not the driver. But the driver mod DOES HELP.

 

yep. Our drivetrain is not the strongest.
but the driver has to realise that, and drive accordingly.

Thats basically the bottom line.
you cant drive our car how you WANT it to be....
you have to drive it to how it is.

remember. its a $20,000 car.