Engine builders
#1
Engine builders
I'm starting to plan for when my 2006 L61 craps out on me and was wondering about engine builders for these cars as far as availability and cost. I know I have seen a few names thrown around in here like Mongorat? Trevor Jolly? Do these guys just help people in their area or are they willing to work with someone a distance away? Do any of you know how to get a hold of any of them?
If nothing else I am going to look for a low milage L61 that I will attempt to build myself. Do you guys just start looking at a local salvage yard or does anyone keep spare blocks around or what? I really just want to do this right and have enough reliability I'm not having to do major work on the car every 6 months or so. Really any ideas I would be willing to hear.
TVS L61 on 2.9" pulley. Mine is currently running OK I just burn more oil than I would like to. The oil consumption intensified significantly after the last time I had the IM off and I properly routed the PCV port to the IM instead of having it blocked off like I did before. I'm not sure if anyone else experiences this with their supercharged L61 or LE5 but I'm betting when I go to pull the IM off next time it is just coated with oil from the pcv port. It is also starting to look like my valve seals may be getting worn as it will blow a puff of blue smoke on startup sometimes. Either way I am fowling the two center spark plugs and I need to start getting a game plan because my current situation isn't sustainable.
If nothing else I am going to look for a low milage L61 that I will attempt to build myself. Do you guys just start looking at a local salvage yard or does anyone keep spare blocks around or what? I really just want to do this right and have enough reliability I'm not having to do major work on the car every 6 months or so. Really any ideas I would be willing to hear.
TVS L61 on 2.9" pulley. Mine is currently running OK I just burn more oil than I would like to. The oil consumption intensified significantly after the last time I had the IM off and I properly routed the PCV port to the IM instead of having it blocked off like I did before. I'm not sure if anyone else experiences this with their supercharged L61 or LE5 but I'm betting when I go to pull the IM off next time it is just coated with oil from the pcv port. It is also starting to look like my valve seals may be getting worn as it will blow a puff of blue smoke on startup sometimes. Either way I am fowling the two center spark plugs and I need to start getting a game plan because my current situation isn't sustainable.
#3
I have pistons and rods (Eagle and Wiseco) that I think with a new set of rings would be good to go. My main concern with getting a block was putting in the crank as I haven't ever tried that. I want to make sure the bearing clearance and everything is proper. Are there decent new cranks available for 2.2? I have installed rods, pistons and rod bearings but I have never messed with the crank and that is my main concern. Are they relatively straight forward to install?
I know I can replace valve seals as I was pretty much their when I installed valve springs. I mainly need a good block and I wish I could get a 2.2 short block with forged internals ready to go.
Last edited by jdbaugh1; 05-04-2017 at 02:51 PM.
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
I have pistons and rods (Eagle and Wiseco) that I think with a new set of rings would be good to go. My main concern with getting a block was putting in the crank as I haven't ever tried that. I want to make sure the bearing clearance and everything is proper. Are there decent new cranks available for 2.2? I have installed rods, pistons and rod bearings but I have never messed with the crank and that is my main concern. Are they relatively straight forward to install?
I know I can replace valve seals as I was pretty much their when I installed valve springs. I mainly need a good block and I wish I could get a 2.2 long block with forged internals ready to go.
I know I can replace valve seals as I was pretty much their when I installed valve springs. I mainly need a good block and I wish I could get a 2.2 long block with forged internals ready to go.
crank install is very straight foward
new main bolts and a rtv seal bearings
eagle forged 2.2 l61 cranks are hard to find now
shoot me a text if you have any questions
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
My first thought was to throw in an LDK as well, but bear in mind you'll need a lot more than just the long block. It doesn't come with a wiring harness/starter/alternator/ECU for starters. Then I don't know how much needs to be changed to the L61's wiring/BCM/fuse box etc to make it work. Certainly not a simple swap is what I'm saying. Plus to account for the power you'd have to do something about suspension and brakes. It gets expensive quick.
#7
My first thought was to throw in an LDK as well, but bear in mind you'll need a lot more than just the long block. It doesn't come with a wiring harness/starter/alternator/ECU for starters. Then I don't know how much needs to be changed to the L61's wiring/BCM/fuse box etc to make it work. Certainly not a simple swap is what I'm saying. Plus to account for the power you'd have to do something about suspension and brakes. It gets expensive quick.
I'm really looking to just put a robust engine setup in as my current setup uses oil. I'm making good power and everything but fouling plugs and I'm assuming carbon build up in the cylinders will eventually make it not function properly.
I know I can supposedly use any block the problem is I must have an L61 crank for reluctor wheel to jive with my ECU. I suppose I could go standalone as it would be nice to have more tuning options but that is a huge project in itself. If there was a short block available that I could use I would most likely go that route but there isn't that I know of.
#8
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
my suspension has already been upgraded and a brake swap may be down the road but i mainly use the engine power to accelerate faster vs. Going high speeds and right now my brakes are sufficient for what i do. Heat isn't an issue in short autocross runs and i don't want to mess up the bias as i like the way it is balanced currently.
I'm really looking to just put a robust engine setup in as my current setup uses oil. I'm making good power and everything but fouling plugs and i'm assuming carbon build up in the cylinders will eventually make it not function properly.
I know i can supposedly use any block the problem is i must have an l61 crank for reluctor wheel to jive with my ecu. I suppose i could go standalone as it would be nice to have more tuning options but that is a huge project in itself. If there was a short block available that i could use i would most likely go that route but there isn't that i know of.
I'm really looking to just put a robust engine setup in as my current setup uses oil. I'm making good power and everything but fouling plugs and i'm assuming carbon build up in the cylinders will eventually make it not function properly.
I know i can supposedly use any block the problem is i must have an l61 crank for reluctor wheel to jive with my ecu. I suppose i could go standalone as it would be nice to have more tuning options but that is a huge project in itself. If there was a short block available that i could use i would most likely go that route but there isn't that i know of.
#9
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
ive yet to hear of anyone breaking an ecotec crank. the cast and forged gm cranks seem to be pretty solid.
if you already have rods and pistons, a good inspection and you should be able to use them again with new rings and bearings. the only real weakness in the short block is the block itself, and many have proven it strong enough for most blower setups. if you want a stronger block, a gen 3 ldk/lhu block would be the way to go, they are solid to 500hp. zzp also has girdled blocks, and there are a couple others that have sleeved blocks.
if you already have rods and pistons, a good inspection and you should be able to use them again with new rings and bearings. the only real weakness in the short block is the block itself, and many have proven it strong enough for most blower setups. if you want a stronger block, a gen 3 ldk/lhu block would be the way to go, they are solid to 500hp. zzp also has girdled blocks, and there are a couple others that have sleeved blocks.
#10
Is there any problem with reusing a used crank in a different block? Or does anyone know where I can get a stock 2.2 crank that is at least up to OEM spec? Do you typically replace the main bearings when you put a crank in a different block? Are bearing clearance issues common?