umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you would see a noticeable lower engine coolant temp. Car is going to run in the range it wants.

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

Well use to see 200 regularly w royal p. Now I see 194 max ..thought it would be the oil lol

Stamina

Well the oil temp and coolant temp do affect each other to a point, due to the heat exchanger tying the two together, on the side of the block. If you monitored oil temp before/after then you'd have your answer right off the bat though. I think there's an oil temp sensor PID that can be monitored (there's also an estimated temp PID, but obviously don't use that one in this case).

Thedark1

iTrader: (1)

I have used both, just switched to amsoil and will not go back.

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

I monitor the coolant temp all the time and I do believe the oil makes a difference, but don't have proof to back it up

jp1600

iTrader: (2)

Be a hard one to prove, all i know is that with amsoil my car runs 10 times smoother. When i used royal purp hps, it felt like it ran rough off and on. With amsoil, god it feels smooth. I know i have no proof, but i know my car, and wether it makes a real difference, the one i can feel is enough for me.

dieGone

iTrader: (2)

I just bought a 110k mile Cobalt LS 2.2 Coupe. I don't know what oil the previous owner used, but I'm guessing conventional as most people who buy these economy cars tend to be cheap. Based on reviews and reading everyone says Synthetic Royal Purple... but cheapest I could find for 5qts is 42$. I'm not sure I wanna spend that much every 3k miles (I know this can be extended to 5k-6k miles) but still, they say once you go synthetic you can't go back. Mobil 1 Synthetic on the other hand, can be found for 25$ on the same size (5qts).

What do you guys think? Is it really worth paying the double for Royal, or I'll be good with Mobil 1? I mean, this car has probably been living on conventional for 100k miles, synthetic M1 will already make a difference. Also, will the change from conventional to synthetic cause any problems? The engine might react different to a synthetic oil... I mean I don't know.

Help me on this one!

EDIT: Also, recommend me a good oil filter, I heard FRAM's are mad of paper and should stay away from them, people recommends WIX filters. Don't mind paying a little more for something better, suggest me an oil filter too, I'm changing the oil myself this week.

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

Get Mobil 1 and done. I use AC Delco filters.

SuperSport4

iTrader: (1)

a lot of people dont know what the diff groups are. Mobil 1 is a hydrocracked oil, and RP is a true synthetic. Mobile 1 still makes true syn, but it aint $18 for 5 qts....i personally love AMSOIL.... you can feel the diff in how smooth the car drives... and it is a group 4 oil

dieGone

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man! Inside the Mobil 1 category there's a "high mileage - part synthetic oil"... it's actually cheaper than the Synthetic (17$ 5qts). But I suppose the "full synthetic" would be better right? I mean it's just 7$ difference. Thanks for the filter suggestion, they have it at advancedautoparts for 8$.

Buy ACDelco Oil Filter PF457G at Advance Auto Parts

So based on filter (8$) + 5qt M1 Synthetic (25$) every oil change = 33$. Not bad.

-----------EDIT-------------
Which one would you suggest?

FULL SYNTHETIC HIGH MILEAGE M1 OIL?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-Hi...l-5qt/17018131

Or FULL SYNTHETIC EXTENDED PROTECTION M1 OIL?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-Ex...-5-qt/17128876

Stamina

They're all made of paper. Paper's actually pretty good at filtration though.

I use Mobil 1 High Mileage on my ZZP engine, due to the increased zinc in it over their other formulations. At an MPx meet a while back, we had a guest retired Dodge/GM engineer that was now working as a technical consultant there talk to us about oils, and he straight up told us it's the stuff he'd recommend over RP and others.

He stated RP doesn't do re-testing of its mixtures coming out of their tanks to ensure consistency, so he couldn't recommend them.

dieGone

iTrader: (2)

That's actually great information man! And yeah I figured about the filters since they all look the same, some just look cheaper than others I guess the paper quality changes.

Based on your post I'll go with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic for High Mileage then. I read that the additive of Zinc could damage the engine in the long run, but I doubt that's true, you heard anything similar?

Stamina

Yeah you're right about the filter designs. Some brands I've noticed have a wider mouth than others and some also have less exposed filtration area due to the areas that the plastic frame covers. In my mind, having both a wider mouth and increased exposed surface area would be an advantage, but it seems that it's usually one design or the other that they all subscribe to. In all honesty, there are probably only a few makers that actually manufacture the filters, and then they're sold under different brand names.

You're basically correct. The zinc (ZDDP/ZDP) content in the oil can be too low, causing accelerated engine wear, or it can also be too high, causing degradation of the catalytic converter media. For those with older flat tappet engines, having increased levels of ZDDP is extremely important, or the engine could be damaged. In many of the more recent oil formulations, they have brought down ZDDP levels in the name of emissions (slowing cat degradation). For those that are running catless though, this shouldn't be a concern obviously. On a side note/factoid: The engine warmup cycle that the SS/TCs go through on cold starts is another example of a focus on emissions. The reason it does that is to light off the cat quickly, and get the cat up to temp/efficiency quickly as to bring down emissions.

In my opinion:
On that note, as oils have become more emissions focused, they have also become less protective in some ways. Sure the detergents and substance ratios used in oils are constantly improving/evolving, but in my opinion the overall best stuff is the Euro stuff. The Europeans have some good oils available to them over there. They expect their belongings to last longer, and aren't as disposable-minded in general and emissions-****-minded as we are here, so their oils tend to be better in some cases, being focused more on anti-wear protection and less on emissions sacrifices. Some of them are available here, but they cost you.

cluelessk

Don't waste your money on synthetic. Just buy a name brand oil and be done without breaking the bank.

If the previous owner didn't use synthetic switching to it now could bring up issues.

Your motor is not performance oriented at all. No need for the expensive oils.

Be smart and save some money.

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

^lol

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

Smart ass.

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

That's a super affordable price. I heard High Mileage makes the seals swell and stuff. I just use regular or you can also use the extended protection.

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

this is really a thread?

RP all the way jk

ams

dieGone

iTrader: (2)

That's funny because I actually just moved from Spain. I had a Chevrolet back there also a 5-speed hatchback, it had a 1.6 engine 110hp. I am going back now in January I could ship an oil tank here haha but that would probably sum up to the cost of buying it here.

I don't know about the high levels of Zinc if it would cause a negative or positive impact on the engine. Can you switch to just synthetic after applying high mileage synthetic?

The conventional oil is 15-17$, synthetic is 25$. Really 10-13$ for me don't make a difference at all. If the engine will last longer with Synthetic why be cheap?
You think it really would bring up issues?

Yeah I'm having second thoughts about the high mileage, should probably go for the extended protection or regular synthetic. They're all 25$ anyways.

cluelessk

Up here in Canada my Synthetic costs me roughly $70 while conventional would be under $20.

Cobaltsaint

Pennzoil and lube moly lol

dieGone

iTrader: (2)

Oh I see why you said that. Well I'm mostly concerned about the issues, the Synthetic and Conventional are barely 10$ difference here in CT. So I don't mind paying a little more for better oil. Just wanna make sure the change of conventional to synthetic oil won't cause any harm on my engine as it has 110k miles right now and probably never had synthetic in it.

PS. Should I ask previous owner what type he used?

DC02

Ran a Fram filter before, the thing was all warped to **** after 8,000 miles. (I run about 10,000 between changes with Mobil 1 and a WIX filter)

Running the WIX it still looks like it's in great shape after 10,000 miles. Going to try and change it every 5,000 but it just slides down the priority list since I've run the 10,000 and not had issues before.

at 83,000 miles I have shifted to the Extended Protection though.

Murdered SS

iTrader: (4)

i'm just switching to amsoil I'm going to pick up my oil tomorow. But since i had the car i always used mobile1.

dieGone

iTrader: (2)

That's exactly what I heard about the Fram filters, definitely staying away from them after reading this. I'll either go WIX or ACDelco. For oil, I'm gonna try out M1 Synthetic Extended Protection. I'm planning on doing my oil every 5k miles.