Can these water pumps quit on our cars without any real signs, noises or anything els except just not push coolant? Ive never dealth with this sytle , unsure if they can just stop working without squeeling or making other horrible noises.

 

Refering to timming chain driven. Ive alwayd worked with belt drive . And 9/10 times you know whfn it goes.

My cooling system is in 100% working order, coolants just not flowing...

 

Don't see why not. For instance I had a prelude that the fins rusted off the pump. Didn't make any noise but the car was over heating.

 

It could. Is there any coolant leaking out of the weap hole?

 

My cooling system is 100% in every other way . It has been taken apart and looked at piece by piece. Dealer is the one that confirmed no flow . All looks good. No flow - cant look at water pump easily so thats the last piece of the puzzle. But doesnt make sense to me becuase im not fimilar with this set up.

So no , no leaks or noise from that area

 

Only other thing that is a possibily it head gasket. Havent looked down the cylinders yet. But the car runs fine. Ive had previous vehicle with head gasket issues.

I swapped t-stat and now im in this boat. Yes the new tstat works and is in right. Along with everything els

 

If it was head gasket you would be losing coolant or building lots of pressure in your system which you haven't stated ( that I can remember) My guess is the water pump has failed. I would think that it is spinning seeing as your cams are but that does not rule out that something has broke inside the water pump.

 

Cant tell if im losing coolant becuase its not flowing. I cant drive it.
Building pressure. Yes. Once it gets hot. Those lines get hard

 

Thats normal to build some in coolant lines lol. Im talking insane amounts. Losing coolant doesn't matter if its flowing or not. Cooling systems usually build 15 to 16 pounds of pressure. I would replace water pump, only thing I can think of if you have no flow.

 

I thought you replaced the T-Stat because you were running too cool? Could be mistaking you with another user though. If you think you have a head gasket or other internal leak, pull your dipstick and check it. See if you have any choco milk like condensation or anything like that in there. See if the oil level is over full.

If you do decide to do the water pump, be advised that there are special tools you need in order to get it off I believe.

EDIT: Never mind, that was another user with the Tstat.

 

i did have a thread about tstats also.

i cant see any evidence of coolant in the cylinders by looking down them with a light. Nor can i see any evidence of coolant in the dip stick. and the cars been sitting a few days, it would be settled forsure. Oil was a little bit thin, but im also due for a oil change.

also noticed a wierd tick from waterpump side of the motor i never noticed till now.
when i get less fed up with this car im going to replaced the pump.

the tick sounded, metallic? like metal, i dont know. one tick about every 2 seconds.

 

You are overheating right?

 

Coolant is not flowing
So yes overheating Dealer comfirmed that.

Top rad hose gets hot. Rest stay cold. Just naturally aspired flow i guess you can say. It will take a long time for the temp guage to read its over heating because its behind the tstat. Mean while the top hose is boiling.

Its kind of a wierd situation becuase evetything worked . Replace tstat and now its not working. So i didnt assume water pump till after dealer said now flow and i put in a new tested and working oem tstat. Also took all other cooling componets out and tested. All working. I wasnt sure if the pump can just up and quit. Maybe i didnt bleed the system right the first time and it kicked the can. Thats my guess, i kinda put it all togetjer and ran it. No leaks, a beer later i came back and it was not working properly ( no hot air and running hot )

 

Had to replace my timming chain tensioner about 10-12k kms ago kf that matter

 

Very interesting. Well, if you can see the difference between the hot and cold coolant hoses, the only thing to do is find out what's in the middle causing the restriction.

Here's the instructions:


Water Pump Replacement (L4)
Special Tools

EN-43651 Water Pump Holding Tool

For equivalent regional tools, refer to Special Tools.

Removal Procedure
Remove the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement.
Remove the intake manifold cover. Refer to Intake Manifold Cover Replacement.
Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Replacement.
If equipped, remove the coolant heater. Refer to Coolant Heater Replacement.
Remove the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement.
Remove the engine coolant thermostat housing. Refer to Engine Coolant Thermostat Housing Replacement.


Remove the water pump cover (2), fasteners (3) and gasket (1) from the engine front cover.

Note: A drain plug has been provided at the bottom of the water pump assembly for additional coolant drainage from the engine block and water pump.
Drain the coolant from the water pump using the plug at the bottom of the pump. Install the plug when finished.

Note: The water pump holding tool supports the sprocket and chain during water pump service. The tool must be used or the balance shaft must be re-timed.
Align the EN-43651 water pump holding tool (1) with the threads on the water pump sprocket. Tighten the water pump holding tool fasteners (2).


Secure the water pump holding tool with the previously removed water pump cover fasteners (1) into the engine front cover.

Remove the water pump sprocket to water pump fasteners (1).

Note: Be sure to remove both water pump bolts from the front of the engine block.
Remove the front water pump fasteners (1).

Remove the rear water pump fasteners (1).

Remove the water pump (1).

If replacing the water pump cover remove the water pump rear cover fasteners (4).
Separate the water pump cover (1) from the water pump (3).
Remove and discard the water pump O-ring seal (2).
Installation Procedure


Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice.
If replacing the water pump cover (1), install a new O-ring (2) to the water pump (3) and tighten the fasteners (4) to 25 Y (18 lb ft).


Note: A guide pin can be created to aid in water pump alignment. Use a M 6 m x 6 mm x 50.8 mm stud (2 in). Thread the pin into the water pump sprocket.
Using a guide pin (2), align the pin with the water pump holding tool.
Position the water pump (1) against the engine block and hand tighten the water pump fasteners (3).

Install 2 water pump sprocket to water pump fasteners (1). After the fasteners are snug, remove the guide pin (2) and install the 3rd fastener (3) and tighten to 10 Y (89 lb in).


Install the water pump fasteners (1) at the front of the engine. Hand tighten at this time.
Tighten the water pump fasteners at the front and rear of the water pump to 25 Y (18 lb ft).


Remove the water pump cover fasteners (1) from the engine front cover and water pump holding tool.

Remove the EN-43651 water pump holding tool (1) from the water pump sprocket.


Install the water pump access plate (2) gasket (1) and fasteners (3) and tighten to 10 Y (89 lb in).
If equipped, Install the coolant heater. Refer to Coolant Heater Replacement.
Install the engine coolant thermostat housing. Refer to Engine Coolant Thermostat Housing Replacement.
Install the catalytic converter. Refer to Catalytic Converter Replacement.
Install the exhaust manifold heat shield. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Replacement.
Install the intake manifold cover. Refer to Intake Manifold Cover Replacement.
Install the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement.
Refill the coolant system. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling.

You will need that special tool. Don't recommend doing it without it. Or just take it to the dealer/ACDelco shop.

 

Awsome thanks for the how to thing. That should help when i tear it apart

 

Get the holding tool. You'll need it.

 

I already found the parts and tools i need. The pump even has a life time warranty haha
I might get to it this weekend. Meh, we'll see

 

Hope it fixes your issue!

 

Me too

I dont even know what els it can be if this isnt the issue...

 

What a joke
They tell me they have the tool. I decide to do it today and nope, no tool you can order it for $40 be here on wednesday.

 

Someone suggested taking the vavle cover off and strapping the chain in place. Can i get away with this????

 

I obviously cAnt strap the chain down. Its driven off a secondary chain. Which is loose... there is play in it, is that normal? I just removed the acess plate

Not lots of play. But i can easily move it say 1/8 inch back and forth easily