I know most people with the ss/sc get the ingall torque dampeners when they have the problem, but my question is... How bad is wheel hop for your car if you do it occasionally just messing around. Like once every week or two. Very blunt question i know.

 

it's bad, and you should NEVER do it unless you want to buy new axles very soon.

one wheel hop is enough to snap the weak ass axle.

 

yeah i dont try to. Its only when im like on the verge of a burn out and dont actually get my wheels spinning fast enough and they hop a couple times and my dash shakes and everything.

 

yea. i would learn to launch without wheel hop. the axles in this car suck, and if you break an axle you're almost guaranteed to pay out of pocket with the gm bulletins that are out there.

 

Never ever do that. If it starts, let out of the throttle immediately. Worse than shattering axles, you could actually crack your bellhousing and need a new transmission. GM has written warning out to their dealerships that this is abuse and will not be covered under warranty.

If you want to avoid it, look into replacing your motor mount, trans mount bushings and control arm bushings...

 

damn, i didnt know it was that bad. is it hard to install the dampeners. and how much do u estimate are the bushings for the trans mount and control arm.

 

not at all. anyone can do it with basic hand tools.

 

No not really. Do you know how to use a jack, and a socket wrench? If so, piece of cake.

 

ha yeah i do but how much would you estimate for all the bushings and dampeners.

 

bushings i got for 50 shipped brand new from turbo tech, ingalls is around 130 or so, i THINK.

 

Do you think they are worth it even if i dont race often.

 

I just installed a TTR upper engine mount, which means I have a torque dampener from Ingall's sitting in my garage. If you want, I will sell it to you for far cheaper than you could buy one new. I'll even send the original install instructions w/ it...

It's definately worth putting those things in, just for safety.

 

the dampener and bushings completely stops wheel hop? and how much. 90$ ??

 

When ever I get wheel hop,I feather the car so it don't hop,maybe thats why I had to replace my trany once b4!!

 

Dampener and trans bushing inserts would stop most wheel hop. I would still recommend better tires and Control arm bushings.

My ITD is completely functional and has no issues other than cosmetic scars from time. I have sold things to several members on the site if you need recommendations. I'm not looking to screw anyone over here, either. I bought it from Aaron at TTR for almost $180. The cheapest new one you'll find will prob be from NGA at about $150. I'll sell it to you for $75 +shipping.

Let me know if you want me to take pictures.

 

Yeah i am very interested. If you could take pics that would be great.

 

I'll take pics tomorrow.

 

all right thanks. Just pm me or something when you get them.

last question. where can i find the trans bushings and control arm bushings.

 

I'm going with bushing myself, over the TD.

 

if your on the stock pulley and tune and so forth get the TD.. if you wanna go big and not have any problem's get solid motor mount's.. bwoody has nice stuff. and the only reason i broke an axel was the traction bar coming loose on the driver side after 17 3k+ launches with no hop what so ever. i have known a few heavily modded RL's to BEND the TD. the axel's are not crap its people thinking 18's were meant to drag with.. WHICH THEY WERENT. said it before say it again the 50+ corner weight's dont help ANYTHING.. which is why more balt's break axel's then IRL's.. and the 04 IRL axel's have NEVER had an issue with a few in the 400+ HP range cause the diameter of the axel it self in diameter dosent taper down towards the hub like it does on EVERY balt SS/SC and every IRL after the 04 year.. but the SS/SC's that have an LSD have a stronger tranny case cause of the qualife main carrier...

 

Quite frankly, I wouldn't do that, and here is why.

You have three contact points that mount your engine and tranny to the chassis. OEM, all three locations are "soft" and when throttle is given, they "give" to allow engine movement which limits vibrations to the passenger cabin. The negative effect of this is that power is lost in that "give."

If you only replace certain contact points, that puts extra strain on the remaining "soft" points. This is especially true given that two of the mounts are located lower and more towards the drivers side of the vehicle. If you replace those two mounts w/ "hard" mounts, the stock upper mount is going to flex more and probably put more stress everything.

Basically, go big or go home. If you're not going to replace all three at once, I highly recommend against doing it. You will not see the full benefit of "hard" mounts and could possibly see adverse effects...

I agree about the wheel weight and that the stock axles are fine for lots more power, but wheel hop is there, and this is a much cheaper fix for those remaining close to stock. Also, ITD brackets being bent is a direct result of improper installation. There's no way they'll bend if people adjust the length of the dampener along w/ the stiffnes...

 

^I see your point there, I've seen TTR engine mount and tranny bushings but what about the lower engine mounts you're talking here?

 

It's bad

Document ID# 1864872
2006 Chevrolet Cobalt


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Subject: Transmission fluid Leak Slipping Clutch Or Broken Axle Shaft - keywords crack housing shift slip #PIP3932 - (09/29/2006)



Models: 2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt SS

2004-2007 Saturn Ion Redline

Equipped with a 5-Speed Manual Transmission (RPO MU3)




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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Some customers have commented about transmission oil in the clutch housing, slipping clutches or broken axle shafts on this model. An analysis of several of these failures has revealed that the problem is due to excessive front wheel hop during WOT acceleration events.

Excessive wheel hop transmits a torsional shock load into the transmission case. This causes the case to crack and transmission fluid to leak into the clutch housing. See photos below.











Recommendation/Instructions:
Stiffer axle shafts and hardware will change the system harmonics and help prevent wheel hop. These planned changes will not be available until the 2008 model year.

Note:: Be advised that failures of this nature are abuse. They are NOT defects in materials or workmanship for which General Motors would be responsible and should not be covered under the terms of the new vehicle warranty. Vehicles with this complaint should be inspected by the dealer and Area Vehicle Manager. A product report should be submitted on each.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.



GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
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© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.


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well i know what im getting in the summer time lol

 

Does the ingalls torque dampener cause vibrations in the cabin?