Wiring Tapping
Wiring Tapping
This ended up being talked about in another post I made but this one is specific to it. I'm hardwiring a radar detector to my car and need to know which wire to tap into. Problem is idk which wire is which. This is what I'm looking at...

So I'm probably looking for the radio deck more than likely unless suggested otherwise.

So I'm probably looking for the radio deck more than likely unless suggested otherwise.
The add-a-fuse being the blue clamp? Which one is the sunroof wire?
Now would the radio deck work as well? Reason I ask is because I might have to go to get warrenty work done on the sunroof because the up position doesn't always work (vs the back position) and if they see the clamp on it then they will look at me and say bye bye lol.
Now would the radio deck work as well? Reason I ask is because I might have to go to get warrenty work done on the sunroof because the up position doesn't always work (vs the back position) and if they see the clamp on it then they will look at me and say bye bye lol.
Last edited by Ducky22287; Sep 17, 2008 at 09:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
It means that on the big pink connector there is a location that doesnt have a wire goin to it, but if you were to put a wire and terminal in that spot(D11 grid location) that wire would now get battery positive voltage from the unused 20amp amplifier circuit. I cant verify that this is true however.(according to the manual this location is unused< and no specs are given.) You can verify this by using a test light attached to ground to probe the terminal in the module at the location that was mentioned, it should light up with the key on if the info is correct, if it does light up, pull the fuse #6 "AMP" fuse and see if the light goes out, if it does, that would be a nice place to power your detector, youll need to hit the dealer to get the wire terminal that goes in that slot though(its called a MetriPack 280 termnial, and youll need one in the size that matches the wire gauge youll be using, along with the pliers to crimp it on)
If you just want to "tap" into a wire, you want to go on the other side of the console(or unbolt the fuse block from console) and tap into any one of the LARGE pink wires, all of these wires are Ignition 1(switched) power sources. Be sure to use a proper sized fuse and youll be golden.
If you just want to "tap" into a wire, you want to go on the other side of the console(or unbolt the fuse block from console) and tap into any one of the LARGE pink wires, all of these wires are Ignition 1(switched) power sources. Be sure to use a proper sized fuse and youll be golden.
Has anyone plugged it into an amp socket? I assumed u could only use another wire to tap into it.
And the pink wires at the bottom in the pic won't work?
And the pink wires at the bottom in the pic won't work?
Last edited by Ducky22287; Sep 18, 2008 at 12:26 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
They would "work" but its best to use one of the large pink wires on the other drivers side of the BCM/Fuse Block, you can either remove the screws that attach the module to the console and just pul it out to get to back, or you can take off panel on other side of console and work through there.
Is there a way to know which pink wire is for what?
Also I was talking to a guy that works with me at best buy in the install area and he said I could even just strip the wire a but then wrap it once around a certain fuse (he said deck). Does that sound like a good idea?
Once again, thx for all the help everyone
Also I was talking to a guy that works with me at best buy in the install area and he said I could even just strip the wire a but then wrap it once around a certain fuse (he said deck). Does that sound like a good idea?
Once again, thx for all the help everyone
Last edited by Ducky22287; Sep 19, 2008 at 12:49 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yes, a service manual. helminc.com
LOLOLOLOLOL......Oh, I am sorry.....NO, NO I do not think wrapping a wire around a fuse is a good idea. For several reasons:
1: your jamming extra wire into a terminal designed only for the fuse legs, you will spread the terminal apart, ruin it and potentially need to replace your BCM.
2: This extra wire is just random strands and can reach out and touch other circuits either on top of or inside the fuse block, causing shorts.
3: If you put this wire around the "power in" side of the fuse, you will now have created a direct unfused power wire for your radar detector(you could damage it) you also just created a hot wire with no fuse protection, if this wire shorts out to ground you will fry your BCM.
4: if you wrap the wire around the "power out" side of the fuse, that wire and whatever is attached to is now protected by the fuse, BUT what good is a 20amp fuse for a detector that needs a 3amp fuse? Secondly on same issue, you just now forced this fuse in the BCM to supply power to everything its supposed to AND your detector,but now since youve created a nice big parallel circuit(with lower resistance/higher amperage than designed)youll potentially blow the fuse and lose the other things powered on that circuit.
5: you wrap the wire around both legs of the fuse(or it touches both legs of the fuse) now youve basically removed the fuse and the protected circuits are subject to higher than designed amperages(see above) AND theyll have no protection.
6: Lets not forget, this is totally ghetto and youve already been given two proper ways to do it correctly. Stop listening to BB Hacks and do it right..
Also I was talking to a guy that works with me at best buy in the install area and he said I could even just strip the wire a but then wrap it once around a certain fuse (he said deck). Does that sound like a good idea?
Once again, thx for all the help everyone
Once again, thx for all the help everyone
LOLOLOLOLOL......Oh, I am sorry.....NO, NO I do not think wrapping a wire around a fuse is a good idea. For several reasons:
1: your jamming extra wire into a terminal designed only for the fuse legs, you will spread the terminal apart, ruin it and potentially need to replace your BCM.
2: This extra wire is just random strands and can reach out and touch other circuits either on top of or inside the fuse block, causing shorts.
3: If you put this wire around the "power in" side of the fuse, you will now have created a direct unfused power wire for your radar detector(you could damage it) you also just created a hot wire with no fuse protection, if this wire shorts out to ground you will fry your BCM.
4: if you wrap the wire around the "power out" side of the fuse, that wire and whatever is attached to is now protected by the fuse, BUT what good is a 20amp fuse for a detector that needs a 3amp fuse? Secondly on same issue, you just now forced this fuse in the BCM to supply power to everything its supposed to AND your detector,but now since youve created a nice big parallel circuit(with lower resistance/higher amperage than designed)youll potentially blow the fuse and lose the other things powered on that circuit.
5: you wrap the wire around both legs of the fuse(or it touches both legs of the fuse) now youve basically removed the fuse and the protected circuits are subject to higher than designed amperages(see above) AND theyll have no protection.
6: Lets not forget, this is totally ghetto and youve already been given two proper ways to do it correctly. Stop listening to BB Hacks and do it right..
Yes, a service manual. helminc.com
LOLOLOLOLOL......Oh, I am sorry.....NO, NO I do not think wrapping a wire around a fuse is a good idea. For several reasons:
1: your jamming extra wire into a terminal designed only for the fuse legs, you will spread the terminal apart, ruin it and potentially need to replace your BCM.
2: This extra wire is just random strands and can reach out and touch other circuits either on top of or inside the fuse block, causing shorts.
3: If you put this wire around the "power in" side of the fuse, you will now have created a direct unfused power wire for your radar detector(you could damage it) you also just created a hot wire with no fuse protection, if this wire shorts out to ground you will fry your BCM.
4: if you wrap the wire around the "power out" side of the fuse, that wire and whatever is attached to is now protected by the fuse, BUT what good is a 20amp fuse for a detector that needs a 3amp fuse? Secondly on same issue, you just now forced this fuse in the BCM to supply power to everything its supposed to AND your detector,but now since youve created a nice big parallel circuit(with lower resistance/higher amperage than designed)youll potentially blow the fuse and lose the other things powered on that circuit.
5: you wrap the wire around both legs of the fuse(or it touches both legs of the fuse) now youve basically removed the fuse and the protected circuits are subject to higher than designed amperages(see above) AND theyll have no protection.
6: Lets not forget, this is totally ghetto and youve already been given two proper ways to do it correctly. Stop listening to BB Hacks and do it right..
LOLOLOLOLOL......Oh, I am sorry.....NO, NO I do not think wrapping a wire around a fuse is a good idea. For several reasons:
1: your jamming extra wire into a terminal designed only for the fuse legs, you will spread the terminal apart, ruin it and potentially need to replace your BCM.
2: This extra wire is just random strands and can reach out and touch other circuits either on top of or inside the fuse block, causing shorts.
3: If you put this wire around the "power in" side of the fuse, you will now have created a direct unfused power wire for your radar detector(you could damage it) you also just created a hot wire with no fuse protection, if this wire shorts out to ground you will fry your BCM.
4: if you wrap the wire around the "power out" side of the fuse, that wire and whatever is attached to is now protected by the fuse, BUT what good is a 20amp fuse for a detector that needs a 3amp fuse? Secondly on same issue, you just now forced this fuse in the BCM to supply power to everything its supposed to AND your detector,but now since youve created a nice big parallel circuit(with lower resistance/higher amperage than designed)youll potentially blow the fuse and lose the other things powered on that circuit.
5: you wrap the wire around both legs of the fuse(or it touches both legs of the fuse) now youve basically removed the fuse and the protected circuits are subject to higher than designed amperages(see above) AND theyll have no protection.
6: Lets not forget, this is totally ghetto and youve already been given two proper ways to do it correctly. Stop listening to BB Hacks and do it right..
So what would be the perfered choice?
-Directly plugging in.
Or
-Tapping into one of the large pink wires.
Last edited by Ducky22287; Sep 19, 2008 at 11:45 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
After looking for some more schematics and doing some testing, I can tell you that Coblasts idea of using the open spot D11 in the pink connector WILL work. This would be the best way to go, short of adding a secondary relay controlled fuse block with a direct B+ power source.
If you still feel the need to tap into a wire shown in your pic, then use one of the two large green wires to the left of the bolt. They are right over top oif each other. the top one is your drivers window feed and the bottom is the passenger window feed. These will easily support a detector, and are controlled by the retained accesory power relay, so you wont need to install a switch.
As a reference, the C3-D11 location of the open AMP terminal is on the top row, far right, in between the red/blk wire and the red/wht wire
If you still feel the need to tap into a wire shown in your pic, then use one of the two large green wires to the left of the bolt. They are right over top oif each other. the top one is your drivers window feed and the bottom is the passenger window feed. These will easily support a detector, and are controlled by the retained accesory power relay, so you wont need to install a switch.
As a reference, the C3-D11 location of the open AMP terminal is on the top row, far right, in between the red/blk wire and the red/wht wire
Last edited by Maven; Sep 19, 2008 at 02:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Awesome! This idea is sounds amazing. This way I'm not slcing and dicing or ghetto rigging lol.
Just want to make sure this is the spot...
Just want to make sure this is the spot...
Last edited by Ducky22287; Sep 19, 2008 at 04:19 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thats the spot. either hit up a dealer for the terminal and the tool(not likely unless youve got a friend) or head to the salvage yard cut yourself a a section of wire with that terminal.
Ok, the piece that's on it wouldn't work right?
This is a pic of the whole product...

Hard to see so I made this amazing paint picture lol...

The wire goes into this silver, flat piece with a hole in it.
This is a pic of the whole product...

Hard to see so I made this amazing paint picture lol...

The wire goes into this silver, flat piece with a hole in it.
No, that wont work, it need to be the proper GM piece or at best youll have a poor connection, at worst youll damage your BCM


