thanks for the info. i read your how-to, i was just mainly wondering if it was any different since the line wasnt being removed.

 

For those with rotors that are very stubborn (winter-driven). I tried a small hammer, a big hammer, and a BFH, and no go. I tried torching and WD-40. Eventually I had to go to Princess Auto and buy a 3-jaw puller. I had a friend use my breaker bar to hold the puller from rotating, then I used a huge wrench and turned that puller until the rotor popped off - thing flew about a foot from the car........

Anyway, this is for those really stubborn rotors........something most of the people on here won't have to deal with. If possible, try everything else first, cause it gets dangerous with that much force.

 

how much did u pay for them?

 

Since this was first posted in May 0f 2007... Halfcent could you comment on how these pads and rotors have held up over time? Maybe an updated pic of the rotors on the wheels?

 

So far they are absolutely fine. I'll see about getting a pic this weekend for you. I had a couple other little maintenance items to do anyway.

 

Thanks, I look forward to it.

 

Sorry I didn't get to do this on time. It was rainy and cold all weekend. I'll get you some pics as soon as I can.

 

Don't sweat it. Whenever you can, hey anyway how's your long awaited auto turbo build coming along? PM me if you want to keep the thread on target.

 

Project is shelved due to bad finances right now. I'm trying to get a new job.

 

Just changed my front rotors and pads (EBC's for both). Thanks for this write up, Halfcent.


I have to do the rear too, but couldn't find the specs to do it anywhere...so figured I'd quit while I was ahead and just wait.

The rear is a little different...18mm bolts....and another guy's write up says something about turning a knob or something with pliers.

 

One thing that should be noted is that when your pistons are compressed... your stopping power initially WILL be poor. Pump the brakes a few times until they're firm otherwise you may go straight to the floor if trying to stop. Because you compress them back, it takes a few pumps of the pedal to get them back close to the rotor and fill the calipers with fluid.

 

^^^^^Good point.

Also, regarding compressing the rear pistons: They don't push in like the front ones, you need to rotate them like a big screw, and they will move in on their own.

 

Yeah, I freaked out when I finished and started her up......the pedal was all the way down and I thought I screwed something up.

But....pushed it a few times and it was ok.

 

I almost ran over one of my rims because I was so pissed off from replacing the wheel stud that I forgot to do the pump first. Quick response of the ebrake FTW.

 

that piece folds and goes down along side the brake pad friction side about a milimeter from the backing, it advises u witha squeeking sound when ur pads are finished, u can cut it out if u check ur brakes often, but those things are good for people that never maintian cars they hear a squeek and run to a mechanic HOPEFULLY MY SHOP mouahahahaha

ok at first i was like WHY THE F did he disconect the brake line to the front caliper....then realized u painted them, Good job man they came out nice and shinny, did u soot some clear to or is it just red?

 

these vs say ebc.... what do you think?

 

Nice write up...

 

Nice write up!

 

damn, out of all the brakes i've changed over the years.....this has been the easiest

 

question those locking pins that kept the rotor on do they need to be replaced

 

Going be tackling this job real soon. Couple questions, minus going to a shop to find out answer, how can I tell if the rotors I have can be resurfaced?

I went to a shop prior because I was having to add brake fluid in car a lot, they said no leaks and it's because pads are low. After replacing pads do I just top off fluid or should I bleed the system?

What are recommended pads and rotors just in case I need them? Car is not a high performance machine. It's a DD with 0 done to it.

 

What model is it? Base, LSJ, LNF?

 

2008 2.4 motor coupe. It's the gf's car, I believe is base but not 100%

 

Open the bleeder when you're pushing the piston back otherwise you'll over flow the fluid reservoir and brake fluid is very bad for any painted surface.

Also just get new rotors, they're relatively cheap compared to a re-surface.

 

It is BS that you have to top off brake fluid multiple times just because of pad wear. Yes, the level of the fluid will go down as pads wear, but not to the point where you have to top it off, let alone multiple times.

If the rotors haven't been machined before, you should be fine to have them machined. Over here NAPA does it for 20 bucks. I've had mine resurfaced twice and that is with track use with very aggressive race pads.

I would recommend replacing the brake fluid while you are doing this.

As for replacement rotors and pads, since yours is a base, and not driven very aggressively, any OEM replacement at the auto parts store will probably be just fine.