Thanks to all who put this How-To together. I printed it off and used it when I did mine last weekend installing the gmpp clutch. Worked perfectly with only minor differences when doing an LSJ. Total time took around 6hrs on a post lift and air tools.

 

No, the trans will not come out of the car without dropping the subframe.

 

Only reason I ask is because I've dropped an older Civic transmission and there was room to literally just unbolt the trans from the engine and have it fall out.

 

James (Chevycobaltss3) says he can do it by just dropping the transmission side of the cradle only. Shot him a PM and ask bc I can't remember exactly how he does it.

 

You dont have to remove the subframe. But you need.to remove the drivers side cradle bolts and loosen the passenger to 3/4 out.

 

If your doing this for the first time I'd drop the cradle. If you didn't it would probably make things really difficult, especially when trying to get the trans in, and then lift and align it with all that crap right there.

Watch it when removing the cradle too, I thought I had one bolt in holding it while removing the other and it came crashing down on my hand lol.

 

Just me, or is the link not working anymore?

 

Hmmmmmmm..... It is down. Let me see what's up. If it's not back up in a couple hours, I'll try to move it to another host.

 

Any word? My clutch just went, and local places are quoting me anywhere from 850-1580$ to do it, Id rather do it myself if possible.

 

Ah ****. Lemme try to find a new host. Can you email me? I can send it that way in the meantime.

Frogstofall at yahoo dot com

 

link not working..

 

 

link doesnt work still

 

Yes that is correct. I guess the server is officially dead and I have not tried to get another host yet.

You can EMAIL me for the guide.

 

What's your e-mail address?

 

 

I'm emailing you cause I need the file too!

 

Emailed

 

Just got the PDF in the mail. Thanks a lot man, great write up and pictures definitely help.

 

Emailed

 

you try uploading on scribd or another site? I'm going to want this PDF as well, and I will email you about it too

 

Italian Joe is right, but then there are always people who will try and butcher something by taking short cuts that dont work out. an hour trying to re-mate the trans into the clutch assembly because the cradle is in the way or the clutch is not aligned is simply counter productive.

remembering that the rad assembly needs to be supported, and taking out assemblies in order to facilitate next steps helps; ic pump swung to one side to make it easier to get to the trans bolt above the starter motor; rack left behind to avoid fooling with the steering shaft and potential clock spring damage in the steering wheel; remove the entire rear motor mount assembly and the entire axle im shaft; plugging the distribution block to avoid dripping brake fluid everywhere; filling trans with fluid before replacement if trans is serviced; using plugs for the trans output shafts;using a nut driver to loosen tob bolts;using a proper clutch alignment tool;using an angle torque wrench for flywheel bolts or measuring 25 degrees with a marker (one hex flat of travel);using 145 ft lbs for the cradle bolts;using penetrating oil on cradle bolts up top before removal and rust check for reassembly;bleeding the clutch on reassembly before replacing the cradle to make access easier.

etc,

 

Emailed!

 

Could I get a PM of this ? says the link is down

 

Italian joe is incorrect as are you. You don't have to remove the cradle, remove driver side subframe bolts completely and passenger side 1/4-3/4 the way out and have a jack holding it as well if on te ground. It can be done... Without breaking one thing