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General Suspension: How to do your rear brakes

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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 12:52 AM
  #26  
insylem's Avatar
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From: Wisconsin
Originally Posted by 08SSTCRD
First off, petroleum grease is incompatible with rubber brake parts and will RUIN the rubber parts such as the slide pins boots and caliper dust boot. This is why you only use silicone or ceramic based lubricants on brake parts.
If you notice, I believe he was using synthetic grease. I had planed on looking up the correct grease and using what is called for by the manufacturer.

Originally Posted by 08SSTCRD
And least but not least, don't be a cheap ass and try to use needle nose pliers to rotate the caliper piston back in. All you're going to end up doing is either damaging the piston surface or tearing the piston dust boot. Both of which mean you end up replacing the caliper. Buy the correct tool for $9 or don't bother attempting to do the job at all.
Its interesting to point out that the Haynes and Chiltons manuals both say its okay to use Needle Nose pliers... Personnaly I have a pair of composite needle nose pliers, desiged for electrical work. Those should not cause any damage to the piston, however I do think you are correct, in that one should use the correct tool for the correct job. Espessally if it less then ten dollars.
Thanks for your insight
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:25 AM
  #27  
08SSTCRD's Avatar
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From: USA
Originally Posted by insylem
If you notice, I believe he was using synthetic grease. I had planed on looking up the correct grease and using what is called for by the manufacturer.
Yes, he did use synthetic grease - but its synthetic wheel bearing grease, not synthetic brake grease. There is a huge difference. No wheel bearing grease will stand up to brake temperatures, it just melts.

Its interesting to point out that the Haynes and Chiltons manuals both say its okay to use Needle Nose pliers... Personnaly I have a pair of composite needle nose pliers, desiged for electrical work. Those should not cause any damage to the piston, however I do think you are correct, in that one should use the correct tool for the correct job. Espessally if it less then ten dollars.
Thanks for your insight
As said, the best tool is the proper tool. Chilton and haynes cater to the typical "do-it-yourselfer", which is probably why they cite the needle nose plier method as a way to retract the piston if no other tool is available.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 12:21 PM
  #28  
BlackyK's Avatar
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From: Rochester NH
Just did my rears, using Autozone's Rear Brake Tool that I leased, then never returned, for $60. Both sides took about 30 minutes total. The right tools for the job means no cutting corners on safety equipment. If anybody has trouble pushing and spinning the rear piston back into the caliper, go to auto zone and ask for the rear disk brake tool. For basic maintenance on cars, this tool is second to the floor jack for the speed you get easy jobs done.


Last edited by BlackyK; Oct 10, 2011 at 12:30 PM.
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