BlackSS/SC

You have to take off the SC and intake manifold off. Take off the IC pump and you can get at bottom 2 bolts under the intake. They are a bitch! You can only turn those bolts a little at the time. You'll have to change around all the hoses that have anything to do with the intercooler (IC) system or whatever you wanna call it. So take off all the hoses as you take the car apart. I have a hoist in the shop I work at so that made it easy to get at all the hoses and stuff. So flip the 2 laminova cores (whatever ones the GM instructions say at http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/pdfs/sidekit.pdf). Put the endplate on and put the intake and IC pump back on the car. Don't forget the bottom 2 intake bolts before the IC pump. haha

So asuming you already have the coolant bottle bolted in, and the 3/4" nipple on it pointing towards the front and towards the drivers side a bit. I ran the hose from the tank to the t-fitting down by where the SC pulley is. Make sure you tie the hose away from the belt and pulley good. Plan what stock hoses you're gonna reuse to make everthing line up right without kinks in the hoses. I started working from the dual pass endplate and out from there. You might have to cut sections out and use the straight and 90 degree 3/4" elbows to connect the hoses and lengthen them out. Watch out for the hose running from the coolant bottle to the t-fitting because it's kinda hard to run without interfering with the SC and belt. Just follow the GM instructions on the hoses. The pics I refered to which I printed are on page 5 and 6 at http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/pdfs/sidekit.pdf. Just play around with all the hoses and make sure that you find out what one is best to use where before you start cutting them to make your connections. On page 6 where it points to the .040 orfice, thats what hooks to the top of the heat exchanger on the passenger side. you can look right in by where the hood latch it. I just used a wrench from there without taking off the plastic cover to get the pipe plug out. Thats where you screw the fitting in that takes 1/4" hose, the thread is 1/8"npt or 1/4"npt(sorry don't quite remember that one). The orfice is the part you break off the t fitting shown on page 4 of the instructions.

So basically get the two, 3/4" T-fittings( thats what I used becasue everyhing seems to fall into place better.
-5 feet of 3/4" hose
-3 feet of 1/4" hose
-bunch of clamps for both sizes
-small t-fitting to make the orfice
-some angled metal to make the brackets
-the stock Ion Redline coolant bottle
-a bunch of 90degree and straight 3/4" connectors


Once you get everthing hooked up, fill up the coolant resivor and it will go down a bit. Put on the SC, belt and everthing else. Fill the resivor back up and start the car making sure there's no leaks. Let the car warm up and keep checking for leaks. Go for a drive and check it periodicly making sure it's not too low and no leaks.

Your done!

I think I covered everthing. It's actually easier to do than it sounds, believe me. I though it was gonna be way harder to do but like I said, everything lines up pretty good.

BlackSS/SC

Figured I'd bump this back up cuz I don't think anyone saw it.

distillion

thanks!!
as the day gets CLOSER for me to get this you will prbably be getting a few pms LOL

Pooch

thanks, im gona use this when i order mine

Bad06SS

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! I'm getting ready to do this! How much coolant does the reservoir hold? How much of a drop in IAT2's/temps have you seen?

QuikFKR

so all you need to order is the endplate, coolant bottle & cap? Just making sure cause they have all that other crap on crate engine depot(seals and what not)

BlackSS/SC

I don't know what the IAT drop was. It's winter and I don't drive the car in the winter. I just took it for a quick spin to get the air out of the system. I think it took about 1 gallon so far but I doubt the air is 100% out as it has not been driven far.

rnjmur

While I'm not sure how exactly I am going to make the brakets for the coolant tank, you answered the question I have been looking for - what thread size is needed for the HE bleeder. I think it is 1/8 npt, but I can always buy a 1/8 and 1/4 and take back the one I don't need.

c24na

blackss/sc. Can you pm me or email me, i need to ask you a question. c22_t@hotmail.com I tried contacting you via redline forum too.

Thanks,
Nate

rnjmur

Where did you find the .040 fitting for the orifice? I have been looking looking everywhere and can't find anypalce that has anything like this.

BCobaltSS

I just ordered the 2 pass endplate from Crate today and the surge tank listed on the site .Now is the correct surge tank to use for OPTION B

yellowcobaltss05

can we use the coolant tank without the dualpass?

rnjmur

You could if you really wanted to. You could just take out the stock clear tube then route to the second coolant tank. I am not sure if you would really benefit alot from doing this though.

-Jayson-

well im doing a coolant resevoir this weekend. I think it will help, mainly due to the fact that since you will have more fluid, it will take longer to heat up. It will also take longer to cool down though without another heat exchanger.

Quick question though, i was told the water moves right to left through the fill spout, is this true? Would that make the coolest water come out of the top of the stock heat exchanger?

DrkknightSS99

The 2nd resivor has to be filled to the top correct?

BlilBT

You Might run the Bleeder to the reservoir from the stock H/E, Then replace the neck with a Tee & run it to the 3/4 inch inlet on the reservoir! I Have not tried it but it should work & give a Little Inprovement! It would self Bleed which is Nice

The dual pass in the manifold is were all the gains come from, Meaning you should get the dual Pass endplate!

wdsonny

I am interested in obtaining the size of the Laminova cores that you guys use. I have an RSX with a JRSC at 15psi that I am looking into adding the Laminova cores. Do you have any part numbers that I can take to a GM dealership and see if I can piece together my own aftercooler option since none exists for me. Thanks.

Shanman

y does it have to be .040 for the orifice? I spent almost 14 hours last night and earlier today to put on the endplate. i plumbed the 1/4 back to the steamline right past beside the fuel rail and i guess that was not a good idea huh? i think i can tell a power fifference but the extra surge tank is almost filling up and my stock resivour keeps getting lower on fluid which i fill with more water, and i need to check the car tommorrow to see if the surge tank is full again, since ther is no brackets yet i just tilt the tank and it lowers the fluid level until i drive around about another 10-15 minutes and then i tilt. but u know what? it sure is fun to take the front bumper off and then drive around; people glare then u stare and let the silence be broken with a S/Cream. The entire job wasn't bad it was the .040 orifice deal i didn't understand and didin't do so practically i purged all the air out the system,but my tank levels won't stay even does urs? i just need to set the line from the extra tank back to the heat exchanger/ aftercooler i hope that i can find a .040 orifice that works

rnjmur

?? The intercooler system and engine coolant systems are supposed to be seperate for a reason. The engine coolant shouldn't be changing at all. The intercooler coolant will drop a little for a bit as the air bleeds out and you should have to add coolant then it should level out. If you have the 1/4 line running from the steamline to the HE coolant reservoir you are taking HOT coolant from the radiator and adding it into the HE system. I am going to say that is a very bad idea. You are basically adding unnecessary heat into the intercooler system not to mention it isn't bleeding the air out of the intercooler system at all. I would definately fix ASAP before you make a big mess. The .040 orifice simply helps to bleed the air from the system by controlling how much fluid can flow back through the 1/4 hose. You can just hook up your 1/4 line to the HE without it, but it may not bleed the air out as well.

DrkknightSS99

I have option B installed with the dual plate, but the dealer only filled the secondary bottle to the fill line. Should the secondary resivor be filled to the top? And can i fill it with pre mixed 50/50 dexcool?

BlilBT

Yes you can & No it doesn't need to be filled to the Top! It needs room to expand when Hot, But check it ever now & then as it will go down as the system bleeds out the air! usually within the 1st drive it is done!

Shanman

ok got the 1/4 hose back to the HE the only thing i did differently is putting the 2nd t- fitting on the other side of the small surge tube in front of the s/c the one problem i'm having is i'm losing coolant fast, about a cup every 50 miles and i smell it the most when my cars running and i leave it in neautral and let the coolant rise to 223 and the fan turns on and the temp drops back down i guess i'm gonna have to recheck the connections for leaks.

rnjmur

It will take a few drives for the air to bleed out, and you will need to fill the coolant a few times. I would say after about 50 miles or so it should be bled all the way. If you are still losing alot of coolant and can't find a leak then you may have damaged one of the laminova seals and maybe leaking the coolant into the intake.

Coblt ss super

do you have pics to show how to route the second surge tank to the dual pass? im thinking about doing the dual pass and a second surge tank

BlilBT

crate engine depot has the diagrams with the endplate info I believe!

This will help but you got to read alittle!https://www.cobaltss.net/forums//showthread.php?t=38126