Coblt ss super

dam you have to also flip the cores? this is too complicated for me i dont understand it really, sorry for being such an idiot at this stuff

mrdoc442

recommended plumbing, you move the inside large opening cores to the outside and the outside small opening cores to the inside.

Let me caution you. This is a very, very time consuming, knuckle busting adventure, especially if you take your time and do a nice, clean, proper install. By the time I got finished, I installed the purge tank, and plumbing, after fabricating the brackets, trial fitting it umpteen times so it would clear the Igalls torgue damper. That took several hours, maybe 4 or 5, getting it level, neat and tidy. It took my mechanic, this dude has been a journey level mechanic for probably 25+ years, 16+ hours to install the two pass end plate, and remaining plumbing. Then I refined what he had done, so it was to my satisfaction, used a lot of black convoluted nylon split tubing of various sizes to cover all plumbing and coolant hoses. I also had to search for an elusive coolant leak/seep. All in all I had another 16+ hours in all that. I retightened all endplate bolts and hose clamps, and still didn't stop the leak/seep. After I cut the crap out of about every finger on both hands, the back of my hands, and both wrists and forearms, I finally got smart and covered all the razor sharp hose clamp ends with black electrician tape, like I should have done in the first place. The leak/seep was up high and I spent hours and hours using a flashlight and mirror trying to find it, as I did not want to have to redo the whole process again of having to take the S/C and CAC off. If anyone has something similar pm me and we can talk about where I finally found the leak/seep, and how I fixed it. It was just minute drip, but I do not tolerate any antifreeze leaks/seeps on any of my vehicles period.

I'm sure there will be those who claim they can do it in record time, but I guarantee you if they do they will not have the quality finished product I have. I also recommend covering the driverside coolant hose that goes to the lower part of the engine with convoluted split loom, as the hose rubs in a couple of places, incuding a sharp edge on the side of the engine block, and eventually if you don't protect it, you will end up prematurely replacing the hose when it springs a leak. Terrible engineering on behalf of Chevrolet.

I will be happy to answer any questions here, pm, email whatever. This is a very difficult install, but can be done right if your persevere. It would have been nice if GM had of done it for us when they built the car. Of course the two pass end plate wasn't available when I installed the Stage II, so I got to take the S/C off twice.

Doc

Shanman

damn 16 hours, it took me and a buddy 10 hours work time also counting the drive to advance about 4 times for more hoses and clamps we didi it wrong but that was easly fixed by aka this thread but it was worth it no ****

rnjmur

Yeah, it took me about 12 hours to do. I pre-fabbed my brackets for the surge tank ahead of time though which saved me some time. I also had to run to Advanced about 2 times to get elbowed damn hoses, pain in the ass. I thinkt he worst part was getting the hoses off. If the damn stock clamps and hoses weren't glued on it would have been WAY easier. The other problem I had that took about 2 hours of time was tracking down the side bolt holding the intake manifold.

mrdoc442

goes into the thermostat-it makes a sharp turn out of the oil cooler-runs along the engine right next to a threaded hex plug-close enough to rub-the oil cooler outlet hose on the right out of the oil cooler-runs under electrical wires covered with black corrugated split loom/white tags-my o/c outlet hose was worn shiny where it was rubbingon the electrical connections. It's a good idea to also cover all the new hose plumbing you created with the two pass end plate-some of those hoses/clamp are close enough to rub. I also put some corrugated black plastic loom over the radiator/vac return line that runs by the fuel logs/lines and connects with the drivers side purge tank-that puppy gets smoking hot.

I used various sizes of black corrugated split loom on pretty much every hose under the hood, especially the CAC, I/C hoses, to keep them from heating under the hood and from being heated by the A/C condensor/radiator/aftercooler/fan wash. The factory already uses a fair amount of the black corrugated split loom, so it fits in nicely, looks factory and very professional, as well as protects the hoses and isolates heat. I covered pretty much all the drivers side hoses from the throttle body to the brake fluid reservoir cap-take a good look at them an see how many of them rub and touch-I've got them all protected because some of them would be a bear to replace if they wear through prematurely. If you protect your hoses they can last an incredible amount of time. I race with a guy who has a 1969 Oldsmobile 442 that still has the original radiator hoses on the car. Amazing. But the main thing is they do not rub or touch anything else, and that is probably why they have lasted so long.

As I said in an earlier thread, if you want the engine compartment to run cooler and cool off quicker, (instead of heat soak after brief shutdowns), pop off the rear hood seal and the upper intake manifold sight shield = -15* or more underhood/engine coolant temp. Check out some of my other posts for more detailed info if you are interested.

Doc

SS/SCking

Sweet good **** deff my next mod!!!

Coblt ss super

dam 10-16 hours on install? why does it take so long? im guessing i could do it in about 3-5 hours, i already have the second surge tank installed on the car so thats not a problem wat so ever

mrdoc442

After you eventually get those two bottom bolts/brackets underneath the CAC off down by the CAC pump, my guess is that you'll be whistling a longer tune. Of course, then you also eventually have to put them back. That is just one issue. There is a lot of trial and error fitting etc., that is very time consuming. Good luck.

Doc

Shanman

yeah and not only trail and error but also getting to certain bolts was a biotch and to teel u wat made it easy is taking off the front bumper and just folding back the a/c condenser and radiater this made things alot better and also that bolt under the manifold : that is the reason we took off the bumper. U could remove ur alternator and that could also work but it will still be a pain and taking the bumper off helped speed things up in the long run at least by my opinion

mrdoc442

with you. Sometimes those seemingly extra steps of removing the bumper and alternator may actually save you some time (and cuts and scrapes-busted knuckles etc.), in the long run.

It also took a fair amount of time to maneuver the black pastic split convoluted loom on all, and I mean all hoses, as well. Some hoses you would swear there is not room to access the hoses/install the loom on them from the top of the car, (trying to hold open the loom where it is split so it will go over the hose, then snaking it along the hose to get it into place where there is barely enough room for the loom let alone your hand/hands at the same time), after the hoses are already in place on the engine. It would of course have been much easier to have done it when the hoses were originally installed on the car in the first place by the factory, and the factory did use some loom, just not enough. However, just about all of the radiator and oil cooler hoses touch or rub on something somewhere, and replacing any of them due to premature failure would be a bigger pain in the ass. Not to mention the nice mess the leaking/spraying coolant would make under the hood/in the engine compartment. It's a good feeling to have them all protected, and knowing the hoses will last for a very long time.

Doc

BlilBT

I had No problem with this install & Polished my H/E, Polished & Painted My Dual pass endplate, Polished My Intake Manifold & Steel Braided all the Lines & At the Most being very carefull not to mess up any of the Polishing I did, It might have taken me 8 hours on the Install!

lewisb13

Is the option A this involved?

mrdoc442

involved, as option B, but if you are going to go through the time, trouble, and expense to install the two pass intercooler endplate, you might as well get the full benefit from it. With option A, it is much more difficult to get all the air out of the system, and a cooling system with air bubbles does not cool nearly as well as one with w/o air bubbles. With option B the system pretty much bleeds itself, as your radiator does with the purge tank.

Option B does away with the sight glass, uses some additional hoses/plumbing/t-connectors/fittings etc., and necessitates installing the second purge tank. It is a much better set up than option A. At that point, in the two pass endplate installation, you are right there, with the S/C and CAC out of the way, so you might as well finish the job right. If you don't and are unhappy with option A, then it would be a real pain in the butt to switch to option B. You can get an option B install kit from Crate Eng. Depot, with everything you will need. I always use new gaskets also, (S/C and CAC/Intake manifold), which are available from Crate Eng. Depot. I found them really good to work with, and got all my correct parts right on time. It's also a golden opportunity to replace the original CAC/Intake manifold gasket with the new improved version, which will hopefully correct the LSJ's tendency to blow the dipstick out of the tube due to leaking S/C boost, and coat your underhood with synthetic engine oil.

I don't think you will ever regret doing it right, IMHO, and going with option B.

Good luck.

Doc

flathead0

subscribed

Tennpenn83

so, yeah, i have the dual pass endplate and the option b kit from crate engine depot sitting here in my living room. can't wait to put it on.

where could i get some brackets for the additional surge tank, i really don't have the resources to make or fabricate my own

Degashoot

Hey guys,

Just wondering in what this fitting should be plugged into. It's the copper fitting at the end of the 1/4" hose coming out of the second surge tank in the below picture.



Hopefully someone can enlighten me on this issue

Thanks.
.

Pully Police

That goes to the bleed fitting on the stock heat exchanger in the front of the car.

rnjmur

What he said ^^ It goes in place of the bleeding bolt that is on the top of the stock HE. It is on the drivers side top underneath the black plastic connected to the grill. You can get the bleeder bolt out and put the barb fitting in there without removing the plastic but it is a pain in the ass.

Degashoot

Thanks 4 da info guys

.

rnjmur

EDIT: My bad I don't know what I was thinking. The bleeding bolt is on the PASSENGER side of the HE. Sorry for the brain fart!

AjSS

I just did the duel-pass and option b tank along with my cobra h/e install monday (2 days ago) and didnt put the .040 orface in the 1/4in hose. It is bleeding itself very slowly, and I havnt refilled the tank since monday when I did it, what is the use of the orface beside slow down the flow to create the pressure? Does it make it bleed faster or somthing? Should I take the line out and insert it in?

Thanks,
Aj

rnjmur

The orifice main purpose is to prevent air from being pushed back into the HE. Is it absolutely necessary, probably not. It is probably a good idea to help keep air out of the system. It seemed like it took my car a couple of days to bleed all the air out once I was finished. I had to top off the coolant like 3 or 4 times.

thought

*subscribed for reference during my instlall*

QUAD442

go option B and add an extra heat exchanger while you have your knuckles ground up and bloody already. Its a def. pain in the ass project, but doable if you dont rely on the car as a daily (it will invariably take more than a sitting and trip to napa)

thought

I'm booking 4 days lol