Detailing: HOW TO: fix a small scratch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkqrI3IibYI
ever do paint work?
sandpaper is very common to use for leveling, i believe it was something like 1200 grit i was using, it is made for paint, and can be had at any auto parts store.
i'd suggest trying it out, again, on something you don't care about before using it on your car.
actually, that was the enhanced video, before it was just basically black and white, lol.
i re-shot the intro, i was sjust being lazy before.
sandpaper is very common to use for leveling, i believe it was something like 1200 grit i was using, it is made for paint, and can be had at any auto parts store.
i'd suggest trying it out, again, on something you don't care about before using it on your car.
haha! it's not something most people would know... i mean it seems to make sense!
when i'm filming, people don't understand that an overcast day is ideal.. they get upset, "o man, it's cloudy, it's not gonna look good!"
what do you use to edit, you can probably fix that. or do you just have a very besic program.
when i'm filming, people don't understand that an overcast day is ideal.. they get upset, "o man, it's cloudy, it's not gonna look good!"
what do you use to edit, you can probably fix that. or do you just have a very besic program.
i re-shot the intro, i was sjust being lazy before.
Last edited by joeworkstoohard; Jun 15, 2007 at 12:47 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
[QUOTE=joeworkstoohard;1131831]ever do paint work?
sandpaper is very common to use for leveling, i believe it was something like 1200 grit i was using, it is made for paint, and can be had at any auto parts store.
i'd suggest trying it out, again, on something you don't care about before using it on your car.
QUOTE]
Paint correction is part of my detailing set.
sandpaper is very common to use for leveling, i believe it was something like 1200 grit i was using, it is made for paint, and can be had at any auto parts store.
i'd suggest trying it out, again, on something you don't care about before using it on your car.
QUOTE]
Paint correction is part of my detailing set.
Dont give me any ideas man. What about my bosses car, thats black.. lol. Maybe I iwll try a spot like under the front lip or somethin, nobodys gona see that and if they do theres probly a problem. lol.
later
Alright, the video was great, it helped a lot. Thanks! Now, since I used the rubbing compound/sandpaper I'm having trouble getting rid of the haziness... I used some wax on the area and some polish after that. It helped a little bit, but not completely...any ideas?
someone asked about the sanding
if the scratch is deep enough that you could not get it out with rubbing compound you may need to sand it out.
Thoroughly clean the area so that your sandpaper does not pick up any dust or dirt to create any extra scratches. Get 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper and get it wet. If you have a wet sanding block, wrap the sand paper around it and use it so you don't sand finger shaped marks in the clear, and lightly rub in uniform directions (angled up and downworks best for me). Don't rub too much or you could sand the clearcoat off of the vehicle. When you think that the scratch is gone, taking a good cutting compound (probably stronger than ScratchX or Turtle Wax rubbing compound) like 3M's body shop products, and rub thoroughly with a microfiber cloth. If you have access and EXPERIENCE with a rotary buffer, I recomend it for the cutting compound. When all of the sand marks are gone, clean panel again, and re-rub sanded area with a clean towel and a polish (Maguires Swirl-free polish, cleaner wax) until the spot is as glossy as the rest of the car. Apply wax to repaired area and your done.
Like I said above, use a rubbing compound, and then a polish, than a wax. "Stage" out the haziness
if the scratch is deep enough that you could not get it out with rubbing compound you may need to sand it out.
Thoroughly clean the area so that your sandpaper does not pick up any dust or dirt to create any extra scratches. Get 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper and get it wet. If you have a wet sanding block, wrap the sand paper around it and use it so you don't sand finger shaped marks in the clear, and lightly rub in uniform directions (angled up and downworks best for me). Don't rub too much or you could sand the clearcoat off of the vehicle. When you think that the scratch is gone, taking a good cutting compound (probably stronger than ScratchX or Turtle Wax rubbing compound) like 3M's body shop products, and rub thoroughly with a microfiber cloth. If you have access and EXPERIENCE with a rotary buffer, I recomend it for the cutting compound. When all of the sand marks are gone, clean panel again, and re-rub sanded area with a clean towel and a polish (Maguires Swirl-free polish, cleaner wax) until the spot is as glossy as the rest of the car. Apply wax to repaired area and your done.
Like I said above, use a rubbing compound, and then a polish, than a wax. "Stage" out the haziness
Last edited by ChrisAult2004; Jul 17, 2007 at 06:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
someone asked about the sanding
if the scratch is deep enough that you could not get it out with rubbing compound you may need to sand it out.
Thoroughly clean the area so that your sandpaper does not pick up any dust or dirt to create any extra scratches. Get 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper and get it wet. If you have a wet sanding block, wrap the sand paper around it and use it so you don't sand finger shaped marks in the clear, and lightly rub in uniform directions (angled up and downworks best for me). Don't rub too much or you could sand the clearcoat off of the vehicle. When you think that the scratch is gone, taking a good cutting compound (probably stronger than ScratchX or Turtle Wax rubbing compound) like 3M's body shop products, and rub thoroughly with a microfiber cloth. If you have access and EXPERIENCE with a rotary buffer, I recomend it for the cutting compound. When all of the sand marks are gone, clean panel again, and re-rub sanded area with a clean towel and a polish (Maguires Swirl-free polish, cleaner wax) until the spot is as glossy as the rest of the car. Apply wax to repaired area and your done.
Like I said above, use a rubbing compound, and then a polish, than a wax. "Stage" out the haziness
if the scratch is deep enough that you could not get it out with rubbing compound you may need to sand it out.
Thoroughly clean the area so that your sandpaper does not pick up any dust or dirt to create any extra scratches. Get 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper and get it wet. If you have a wet sanding block, wrap the sand paper around it and use it so you don't sand finger shaped marks in the clear, and lightly rub in uniform directions (angled up and downworks best for me). Don't rub too much or you could sand the clearcoat off of the vehicle. When you think that the scratch is gone, taking a good cutting compound (probably stronger than ScratchX or Turtle Wax rubbing compound) like 3M's body shop products, and rub thoroughly with a microfiber cloth. If you have access and EXPERIENCE with a rotary buffer, I recomend it for the cutting compound. When all of the sand marks are gone, clean panel again, and re-rub sanded area with a clean towel and a polish (Maguires Swirl-free polish, cleaner wax) until the spot is as glossy as the rest of the car. Apply wax to repaired area and your done.
Like I said above, use a rubbing compound, and then a polish, than a wax. "Stage" out the haziness
you should be ok without a buffer, but I do recomend a microfiber towel for the polishing. if its hazy, it may need a little more cutting compound. Try to polish it out first, then if that doesnt work, go to an auto parts store and ask for an aggressive rubbing compound, and re polish. do you have a cleaner wax you can apply after polishing?
you should be ok without a buffer, but I do recomend a microfiber towel for the polishing. if its hazy, it may need a little more cutting compound. Try to polish it out first, then if that doesnt work, go to an auto parts store and ask for an aggressive rubbing compound, and re polish. do you have a cleaner wax you can apply after polishing?
I swear by microfiber towels, so no problem there. I thought it could use more rubbing compound, but the more I used it, it seemed to get even hazier. I'm using: That polish I described, Meguiar's The Gold Class Clear Coat Paste Car Wax, and TurtleWax Rubbing Compound.
another great "how to" by you
thanks+REP sent.
so, i got hit with some piece of trash off the back of a truck. so i fixed it.
enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jU4VJN8QdE
enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jU4VJN8QdE
Last edited by g5mike; Aug 19, 2007 at 11:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
rubbing compound scares me to no end. I'd suggest starting with a lighter grit compound, and working that way. If it doesn't work, then atleast you're not putting a ton of swirls in the paint. Also, make sure you use a nice polish afterwards, and then a glaze. I'd also reccomend a sealent to keep the paint from getting micromars, it's like a small tiny barrier to help you out.
rubbing compound scares me to no end. I'd suggest starting with a lighter grit compound, and working that way. If it doesn't work, then atleast you're not putting a ton of swirls in the paint. Also, make sure you use a nice polish afterwards, and then a glaze. I'd also reccomend a sealent to keep the paint from getting micromars, it's like a small tiny barrier to help you out.
so, i got hit with some piece of trash off the back of a truck. so i fixed it.
enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jU4VJN8QdE
enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jU4VJN8QdE
the pen part on the touch up works better....
and that sand paper should be wet and a high grit
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