2.0 LNF Engine: How to: Hahn Intake Install (56K no)
How to: Hahn Intake Install (56K no)
I receive my Hahn intake yesterday and even thought it comes with instructions i decided to do alittle more detailed how to on it.
Tools:
1/4" Metric drive set
Phillips and Flathead screwdrives
T5 & T30 Torx drive bits
Interior panel clip remover
1) I started by removing the upper intake box, MAF sensor and oil feed line.
2) I then removed the section of the intake bolted to the fender. It is held on by 2 nuts and 1 torq (T30) screw. Once those nuts and screw are removed, it comes straight up.
3) With the main part of the intake removed i then took off the intake elbow going into the turbo. This is where the 1/4" drive with an extenstion and pivot help ALOT!! The worm drive screw is shoved almost against the firewall just behind the vacuum line. Loosen that and then pull out elbow
It should look like this. (Note I also did the spring upgrade too thats why there is another hole)
4) I then began to remove the Headlight, Headlight Bracket and Fender lining. The fender lining i believe has a total of 7 screws and 5 or 6 push pins (Not positive on #'s) There are 4 screws located under the front bumper, 2 infront of the wheel, and 1 on the inner side of the lining infront of the wheel. It takes some force but the liner should come out eventually.
5) remove the lower intake tube, it utilizes a pain in the ass push pin and a screw.
6) Put in the supplier rubber mount next to the hole where the intake tube goes down. It is fastened with supplied nut. Also attach supplied edge seal lip. (I installed mine from bottom up)
7) Begin install of Hahn intake. NOTE: it comes with 4 clamps 2 small and 2 large (dont know why not same size?) I used the two large clamps on the silicone elbow. Snug the clamps but dont sinche them down. Put short piece into rubber elbow and do the same with clamps, gentle snug. Attach small silicone adapter and snug clamps. Slide big piece down into hole and use the welded on mount to mount it to the rubber piece you installed earlier with another supplied nut. Put everything together loosly and check for fitment issues. I didnt really have any just had to move it around alittle bit. Once you are satified, tighten all the clamps.
8) Move MAF (dont know if its needed for all but mine needed it) In order for my MAF plug to reach the one on the Hahn intake i had to slide it down further in the factory wire loom. It was no big deal, i just cut the tape slid it down and then re-taped it up with electrical tape (GM would be proud
)
9) Start up the car and let it idle for a couple of minutes, a whistle or humm is common. If you have had a cold air intake or sri you know what im talking about. If installed correctly no codes or any loud noises (other than the sound of PSSSSSHHHHH for the bov) happen then you are good to go.
10) Re-check all your clamps and lines. Begin putting back together your fender lining, headlight bracket and headlight. Finally you can as Hahn says "BOOST IT""
Some more pics of where i moved the MAF wiring to and the rubber mount.
Tools:
1/4" Metric drive set
Phillips and Flathead screwdrives
T5 & T30 Torx drive bits
Interior panel clip remover
1) I started by removing the upper intake box, MAF sensor and oil feed line.
2) I then removed the section of the intake bolted to the fender. It is held on by 2 nuts and 1 torq (T30) screw. Once those nuts and screw are removed, it comes straight up.
3) With the main part of the intake removed i then took off the intake elbow going into the turbo. This is where the 1/4" drive with an extenstion and pivot help ALOT!! The worm drive screw is shoved almost against the firewall just behind the vacuum line. Loosen that and then pull out elbow
It should look like this. (Note I also did the spring upgrade too thats why there is another hole)
4) I then began to remove the Headlight, Headlight Bracket and Fender lining. The fender lining i believe has a total of 7 screws and 5 or 6 push pins (Not positive on #'s) There are 4 screws located under the front bumper, 2 infront of the wheel, and 1 on the inner side of the lining infront of the wheel. It takes some force but the liner should come out eventually.
5) remove the lower intake tube, it utilizes a pain in the ass push pin and a screw.
6) Put in the supplier rubber mount next to the hole where the intake tube goes down. It is fastened with supplied nut. Also attach supplied edge seal lip. (I installed mine from bottom up)
7) Begin install of Hahn intake. NOTE: it comes with 4 clamps 2 small and 2 large (dont know why not same size?) I used the two large clamps on the silicone elbow. Snug the clamps but dont sinche them down. Put short piece into rubber elbow and do the same with clamps, gentle snug. Attach small silicone adapter and snug clamps. Slide big piece down into hole and use the welded on mount to mount it to the rubber piece you installed earlier with another supplied nut. Put everything together loosly and check for fitment issues. I didnt really have any just had to move it around alittle bit. Once you are satified, tighten all the clamps.
8) Move MAF (dont know if its needed for all but mine needed it) In order for my MAF plug to reach the one on the Hahn intake i had to slide it down further in the factory wire loom. It was no big deal, i just cut the tape slid it down and then re-taped it up with electrical tape (GM would be proud
) 9) Start up the car and let it idle for a couple of minutes, a whistle or humm is common. If you have had a cold air intake or sri you know what im talking about. If installed correctly no codes or any loud noises (other than the sound of PSSSSSHHHHH for the bov) happen then you are good to go.
10) Re-check all your clamps and lines. Begin putting back together your fender lining, headlight bracket and headlight. Finally you can as Hahn says "BOOST IT""
Some more pics of where i moved the MAF wiring to and the rubber mount.
Last edited by TommyP; May 17, 2012 at 09:11 PM.
Awesome!!!
Former Vendor
Joined: 07-07-06
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
A very detailed tutorial. Thank you for sharing your installation experience with the Forum faithful!
By the way...our shop Cobalt looks just like yours in the SALT department! It's just part of life up here in the North. But driving them year-round has its own special charm. It also enables us to understand how our products perform under ALL conditions, an important factor for a well-developed product line.
By the way...our shop Cobalt looks just like yours in the SALT department!
It's just part of life up here in the North. But driving them year-round has its own special charm. It also enables us to understand how our products perform under ALL conditions, an important factor for a well-developed product line.
A very detailed tutorial. Thank you for sharing your installation experience with the Forum faithful!
By the way...our shop Cobalt looks just like yours in the SALT department! It's just part of life up here in the North. But driving them year-round has its own special charm. It also enables us to understand how our products perform under ALL conditions, an important factor for a well-developed product line.
By the way...our shop Cobalt looks just like yours in the SALT department!
It's just part of life up here in the North. But driving them year-round has its own special charm. It also enables us to understand how our products perform under ALL conditions, an important factor for a well-developed product line.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-27-06
Posts: 2,921
Likes: 0
From: Sumter, SC
I also did a how to on this but I'm not going to steal your thread as you did a good job... BUT I thought I'd include a photo that shows where and how high the filter hangs inside the fender:
holy **** i forgot how dirty my car was, north east winters!! Also yea u dont need to take the fender off at all. I just took my intake off when i took it to the dealer and put it back on in 10mins through the headlight
