why, wut u planning

 

I think it looks better with the side markers as the DRL

 

I Would Make The Fog Lights Match The Halo's
But Thats Just Me

 

for the CCFL yeah I know that my question is in the first sentence..

 

i already have my projectors in, is there anyway to AIM my headlights w/o removing my headlight again?

 

Which generation of headlights do you have?

 

I finally got my 1st Gen Projector aimed pretty good with my 6000K HIDs.... I do have 2 questions though...

I aimed them 25 feet from the garage door, and my cutoff was damn near perfect. But when I backed up, I noticed my "z's" in the cutoff spread apart and widen out when in plain sight. Then when pulling closer to the door the cutoff got closer together. Is this normal? Or do I need to aim them farther back so the ending cutoff is perfect? (not at 25 ft)

Also I made my cutoff about 6 inches up from the center of the lights at 25 ft. Most things I have heard was to make them slightly LOWER than the center of the lights... I can see great now at night, but do you think I am going to be blinding people? I have not gotten flashed yet, but I just wanted some opinions on this. Standing in front of the car the light is not blinding bright, in fact it kind of just washes the road in light instead of focusing it.

Thanks for the info!

 

DRL's on 07+ are actually the low beam circuit. So if you do have the DRL's on, it'll be on the low beam projector circuit (I've seen it).

Now, if you do not want DRL's, you can simply remove the 10A fuse marked DRL from the Engine bay fuse box. It will kill your DRLs and it will not thow any lights on the instrument cluster. I pulled the DRL fuse since I have HID and did not want them igniting all the time.

Pulling the DRL fuse WILL NOT in any way affect your Auto Lamps. They will still turn on when it gets dark enough to trip the light sensor or when you engage the windshield wipers.

The beam difference will be noticable after 25 feet. Light travels in a linear way, so if you would draw a line from the center axis point of the light (Roughly the bulb) and drew it to the cutoff center point on the wall, and then extended that line, it would continue and you could get an idea of where it would be at 50ft, 75ft...etc. You're limited by physics, and there isn't much you can do about that since it would be impossible to reverse your car away from the wall WITHOUT it moving either a tad left or right which will throw off your aim a tad. Your aim is assuming there is no left/right deviation when moving back to the 25Ft mark.

As far as the second paragraph, same thing applies. If your lights are not centered (As you mention, they're actually 6 inches higher) the light will travel in that same line, and angle, which will probably be much higher than the 6 inches above centerline at distance. To some vehicles, it may not be bad enough to notice (Truck drivers will rarely get blinded and will only flash if your lights are royally screwed up, but expect car drivers to get quickly pissed off.)

Another thing to keep in mind too when aiming lights is "Will I ever blind a cop?". The LAST thing you want to do is blind an oncoming officer, because 9 times out of 10, he will spin right around and light you up. My locals hand out quite a number of citiations for a driver either having poor aiming or forgetting to turn their high beams off. The first thing I hear over the scanner too is "<badge #> to county, I have a <insert vehicle here> that just blinded me. Stand by."

 

Thanks a lot for posting that info. I knew I had my lights aimed pretty good, although a little high. I just wasnt sure how the cutoff should be at distance. As far as the lights being too high, they seem to be pretty good as of now. Visibility is great, and I still have never been flashed for the lights. Also nice to see some more people on here from around the Pittsburgh area!

 

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Chevy-Cobalt-05-0...ayphotohosting

what ever generation these are.. i have these headlights

 

Those would be the third generation.

 

are these easy to adjust/align?

 

for the 1st gens owners reading this 2nd gen how-to. here are the **** you need to use to adjust your lights (way different then gen 2):
they are 2 sliver looking **** right under the low beam boot.



you got to remove the whole headlight to get to them:


since this how-to was for 2nd gen I had to find the **** the hard way. hope you guys find this helpful and save troub I went to finding the damn ****.

 

anyone found a way of rewiring them or doing something when the halos/CCFL stop working?

I mean they cannot have burned down in a few weeks/months and everyone seems to have problems with them so I guess it's down to bad wires? there must be something to be done..

one one side the CCFL bar died like 2 months ago and today I lost all halos the only thing still working are the LED's

which wires should I check out?

 

I would check first for corrosion in any of the plugs. If there is, use some contact cleaner to clean them out.

If that does not work....I don't know what to tell you.

 

Any Links To Where I Can Find New Ones??

 

E-bay. Some of the vendors on the site have them as well.

 

question for anyone who has the 1st gen projectors.... how do you get HID into these... this is a picture from home im not infront of these lights so i really cant get a good understand how you put the HID bulb in it.... heres what im seeing

https://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/fil...img00405_1.jpg

 

Hey.... My projectors didnt come with the plug in part for the wires... is that necessary? or is there a way i can get around that?

 

If you're using the first or third gen projectors, you use the wiring harness that was used for your OEM lights.

 

I found out i could use the stock ones... But where do i get a plug for the H1 Bulbs??

 

There should be a 9007 plug that you can plug into that goes to the H1's.

 

Do you know where i can get that plug?

 

Quick question, I have 1st generation projectors and being installed into a 2008. I was wondering if I should purchase the DRL cancelling unit or can I pull the DRL fuse without any reprocussions? Another question I was wondering which would be easier, to buy a 9007 HID or the H1 kit? I know its some minor electrical and physical differences of the systems but was wondering which is the optimum and less of a hassle to setup.

Also, with 35W ballasts VS 50W, which would be better for the job?

 

rehost cutoff pic please?!?!?!?!!!