General Suspension: How to Install springs
10-29-2008, 10:15 PM
#101
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2. Yes but it is highly possible to use a strap wrench or a 21mm socket with the bolt head rear end so you can get it with a wrench.
3. I have been using tools since I was 4 years old and took apart a tricycle, I have been wrenching on cars since Highschool(6 years)
there some pics, between me and a friend, we got it done in 2hrs...we used air tool and a electric impact, also before the drop i could fit my fist in the wheel gap and still be able to move it up and down, now i can only get 3 fingers on the front, 2 in the back
got to love them tenzo's. now since i didnt get done late, and its saturday i have to wait till monday for a aligment 
03-10-2009, 03:59 PM
#102
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Anybody know what size bolts they are? I got my springs today and want to do the install but need to know what sizes I need and is a breaker bar good enough or are power tools needed?
03-11-2009, 10:06 AM
#104
any regular socket set should have everything you need. as far as a breaker bar, it will help, but some of them are tough to get the breaker on because there's not a whole shitload of room with the fender liners there.
03-11-2009, 10:25 AM
#105
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I want to try to do it today but I am scared I don't have the proper size sockets and I dunno if my tools are up to the job as they are cheaper tools. I read somewhere that the top front strut needs a 21 size socket which I don't have. I could buy one and return it after I am done or just wait to the weekend until a friend is available but thats like 3 days away still lol
edit: Yeah I just tried the top bolt and the biggest I have is 17mm which is too small
edit: Yeah I just tried the top bolt and the biggest I have is 17mm which is too small
03-11-2009, 01:08 PM
#106
I'm old school
03-11-2009, 07:29 PM
#107
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Well I lowered the car today. Started around 11:30 and was done everything at 4:00. LOL took a long time but it all done properly.
Top strut bolts are 13mm
Bottom strut bolts are 19mm
Bolt to take top of strut is 21mm
Bolt for the rear was 21mm
All in all, looks good so far
Top strut bolts are 13mm
Bottom strut bolts are 19mm
Bolt to take top of strut is 21mm
Bolt for the rear was 21mm
All in all, looks good so far
03-26-2009, 04:32 PM
#108
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Few questions:
1) So the top plates just come right off as soon as the springs are compressed? No tools or anything necessary?
2) Will any excessive force be necessary to adjust the struts back to the point in which the bolts can be re-installed in the struts (being at the top or the bottom?
3) Is an alignment 100% necessary right away? How will it hurt the car if you don't do one? Just un-even tire wear?
4) Is this something you can do by yourself, but it'll just take longer?
5) Any special tools you need aside from a basic tool set to do this project?
6) Is the top nut difficult to remove/reinstall on the front struts?
1) So the top plates just come right off as soon as the springs are compressed? No tools or anything necessary?
2) Will any excessive force be necessary to adjust the struts back to the point in which the bolts can be re-installed in the struts (being at the top or the bottom?
3) Is an alignment 100% necessary right away? How will it hurt the car if you don't do one? Just un-even tire wear?
4) Is this something you can do by yourself, but it'll just take longer?
5) Any special tools you need aside from a basic tool set to do this project?
6) Is the top nut difficult to remove/reinstall on the front struts?
03-26-2009, 05:15 PM
#109
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1- you have to take the 21mm bolt off first
2-if you dont reinstall the top plate on right, then yes... make sure you mark everything, how you took if off so you put it on exactly right. remember.. The little lip on the top plate, you will se what im talking about.. it faces the motor..
3- YES
4 and 5- YES...air is better but ive done it with and without,, the only difference is 30 minutes of your life
6-if you have spring compressors, no
2-if you dont reinstall the top plate on right, then yes... make sure you mark everything, how you took if off so you put it on exactly right. remember.. The little lip on the top plate, you will se what im talking about.. it faces the motor..
3- YES
4 and 5- YES...air is better but ive done it with and without,, the only difference is 30 minutes of your life
6-if you have spring compressors, no
03-26-2009, 08:04 PM
#110
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A local shop quoted me at a book rate of 4 hours to install. Seems crazy. 200 bucks. I figure I can do this myself without too much of an issue. But do you think I should do the Sportlines and the Koni Yellows or get coil-overs? I already have the Sportlines, but I don't really want to remove and re-install everything twice, plus you have to modify the Koni's anyway.. But for install on the springs, you're looking at (without power tools, and it being a single person job), about an hour and a half to 2 hours? My friend said he'd do it for 50 bucks, but I might just tackle this myself on Saturday.. And will you notice the drop right away? My struts have 54k on them, and the springs have about 20k on them..
Last edited by averagewhiteboy; 03-26-2009 at 08:24 PM.
03-26-2009, 08:43 PM
#111
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You can do it yourself ESPECIALLY if you have acess to power tools. Also a word of advice loosen the nut at the top of the strut assembly before you remove the assembly from the car. It will make your job so much easier. Remember dont jump the gun and remove it because that will be a bad no no.
Dont pay anyone to do it unless if you are just that scared to do it. I promise I havent had much experience at all working on cars and I did it on my own with power tools with not one problem at all.
the struts also should be fine. I have the tenzos and they are lower drop and lower quality springs than the sportlines and i havent blown mine yet.
If you have the money go ahead and spring for the Konis but really they arent a neccessity
Dont pay anyone to do it unless if you are just that scared to do it. I promise I havent had much experience at all working on cars and I did it on my own with power tools with not one problem at all.
the struts also should be fine. I have the tenzos and they are lower drop and lower quality springs than the sportlines and i havent blown mine yet.
If you have the money go ahead and spring for the Konis but really they arent a neccessity
03-26-2009, 08:48 PM
#112
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Yeah.. I'm just gonna go head and give this a shot on Saturday.. Just went downstairs to check them out (got them in today).. They're used.. They have a sort of rubbery cover over the lower part os the spring.. Is that cool? That's how I got them, so I assume it's cool.. And I'm gonna probably just add the Koni's later on.. Maybe in a year or something.. Is the camber kit necessary? I remember there being a camber kit somewhere..
03-26-2009, 09:14 PM
#115
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if you are talking about the round thing that has a little titty that fits inside the coil then no you wont need it. There is already one on your stock springs you can use
03-27-2009, 08:20 AM
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03-28-2009, 05:56 PM
#123
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Thanks for all of your help on this install.. Got it done today.. Took forever because we were using hand tools, and we got caught up on that one set of bolts, and super slowed down by the spring compressors.. But the car looks great!! Can't wait to go road these it here in a minute.. Hope the strut doesn't shoot up through my hood.. haha
06-08-2009, 02:08 PM
#125
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well another way instead of using a spring compressor if your lazy is to loosen that bolt before you jack the car up, which slowly releases tension, then remove the strut, not as safe but I'd much rather have the spring shoot up into the wheel housing than if a spring compressor gives out or slpis, releasing in any directoin.