Interior: How To: Upgrade the rear sub
#1
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How To: Upgrade the rear sub
Okay, the stock box is nice and neat looking, so what to do if you want more bang?
Upgrade the driver itself.
I am going to assume a few things here, namely that you know the basics of car audio install, know how to use basic hand tools, and can select amps/speakers/wiring on your own. If not, there are lots of how tos on those subjects already.
Step One: select a speaker.
The box from pioneer is a shallow one, so you will need a shallow mount sub. I used the Pioneer TS-SW2541D. Why? Well, it's a good size, looks nice, has a aluminum frame (i'll explain why this is important later) and it is a pioneer... and the box already says Pioneer on it.
New one
Side By Side
Step Two: Match the holes.
Most of the shallow subs i found use 6 holes, not 8 like the factory sub. I know not why. So, i had to make new ones if i wanted to use the OEM grille. Two of the holes lined up nicely, so all i had to do was clamp the grille on to the speaker, and use it as a template. This is why an aluminum frame was great. It's easier to drill than steel, and the shavings are not magnetic so they didn't try to stick to the magnet.
Step Three: Prep the box.
There are 3 issues with the box. One, the hole is too small for most nicer subs. Two, there is that silly 8mm bolt in the back of the stock sub that leaves a hole in the back of an otherwise sealed box. Lastly, the stock wiring isn't going to cut it for this bad boy.
The hole is easy enough, just "clearance" it a bit.
The old mounting hole was fixed with just a small nut/bolt/washer "patch"
And the wiring is easy to replace (which you'd need to do for your amp anyway)
Step Four: patch that bitch back together and hit the road.
Step Five: Show the speaker to JPizzle and let that dork kick over your Fresca.
Upgrade the driver itself.
I am going to assume a few things here, namely that you know the basics of car audio install, know how to use basic hand tools, and can select amps/speakers/wiring on your own. If not, there are lots of how tos on those subjects already.
Step One: select a speaker.
The box from pioneer is a shallow one, so you will need a shallow mount sub. I used the Pioneer TS-SW2541D. Why? Well, it's a good size, looks nice, has a aluminum frame (i'll explain why this is important later) and it is a pioneer... and the box already says Pioneer on it.
New one
Side By Side
Step Two: Match the holes.
Most of the shallow subs i found use 6 holes, not 8 like the factory sub. I know not why. So, i had to make new ones if i wanted to use the OEM grille. Two of the holes lined up nicely, so all i had to do was clamp the grille on to the speaker, and use it as a template. This is why an aluminum frame was great. It's easier to drill than steel, and the shavings are not magnetic so they didn't try to stick to the magnet.
Step Three: Prep the box.
There are 3 issues with the box. One, the hole is too small for most nicer subs. Two, there is that silly 8mm bolt in the back of the stock sub that leaves a hole in the back of an otherwise sealed box. Lastly, the stock wiring isn't going to cut it for this bad boy.
The hole is easy enough, just "clearance" it a bit.
The old mounting hole was fixed with just a small nut/bolt/washer "patch"
And the wiring is easy to replace (which you'd need to do for your amp anyway)
Step Four: patch that bitch back together and hit the road.
Step Five: Show the speaker to JPizzle and let that dork kick over your Fresca.
Last edited by TommyP; 10-03-2012 at 10:30 AM.
#4
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Thread Starter
as far as sound, it's good, but i do have a few small issues i need to work out. namely, i don't think that the replacement seals as well as the oem one did. so, i'm going to get some thick foamy tape and make a nice new seal for it.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
not really, and here is why...
the stock sub is dual coils at 2 ohms each. my guess is that if you look at the rear 6x9 in speakers, they are in parallel with the two sub coils.
in other words, if you put in 2 4 ohm coils in it's place, you'd drop the draw on the amp and not get a lot of power out of it.
now, that said, it would probably work, but not be anywhere near as loud as you would want.
if you could find a shallow 2+2 ohm sub, i guess that would work, but damned if i have ever seen anything like that. what would make more sense would be to run the two lines of the factory output to an amp that allows for a hot input like this one...
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1177112668775
then power the replacement sub off of it. that way you can minimize the amount of modification.
there is a photo... although, it needs to be moved over to make room for a 4 channel for the newly installed door speakers.
the stock sub is dual coils at 2 ohms each. my guess is that if you look at the rear 6x9 in speakers, they are in parallel with the two sub coils.
in other words, if you put in 2 4 ohm coils in it's place, you'd drop the draw on the amp and not get a lot of power out of it.
now, that said, it would probably work, but not be anywhere near as loud as you would want.
if you could find a shallow 2+2 ohm sub, i guess that would work, but damned if i have ever seen anything like that. what would make more sense would be to run the two lines of the factory output to an amp that allows for a hot input like this one...
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1177112668775
then power the replacement sub off of it. that way you can minimize the amount of modification.
there is a photo... although, it needs to be moved over to make room for a 4 channel for the newly installed door speakers.
Last edited by joeworkstoohard; 10-04-2007 at 03:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#8
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cant we just install the sub without upgrading the Amp.. i love the nice punch we get.. i wanna get a bit more.. but not like adding a sub to gain lots and lots of bass like in a normla sub box.. if you know what i mean..
Thanks
Thanks
#9
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#10
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Great How To +rep.
I was thinking about doing this as well but I was curious when you take the housing out is the sub running off an internal amp already or is it running straight off the power from the deck? I mean technically for the guys above asking about more "boom" if the sub is running off the deck power could you not just toss in a small mono amp (if the deck would allow) and vola more "boom" ?
I wanted to take a molding of the box and make a mirror for the other side as well to keep the trunk nice and clean... thats my plan anyway...
I was thinking about doing this as well but I was curious when you take the housing out is the sub running off an internal amp already or is it running straight off the power from the deck? I mean technically for the guys above asking about more "boom" if the sub is running off the deck power could you not just toss in a small mono amp (if the deck would allow) and vola more "boom" ?
I wanted to take a molding of the box and make a mirror for the other side as well to keep the trunk nice and clean... thats my plan anyway...
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Great How To +rep.
I was thinking about doing this as well but I was curious when you take the housing out is the sub running off an internal amp already or is it running straight off the power from the deck? I mean technically for the guys above asking about more "boom" if the sub is running off the deck power could you not just toss in a small mono amp (if the deck would allow) and vola more "boom" ?
I wanted to take a molding of the box and make a mirror for the other side as well to keep the trunk nice and clean... thats my plan anyway...
I was thinking about doing this as well but I was curious when you take the housing out is the sub running off an internal amp already or is it running straight off the power from the deck? I mean technically for the guys above asking about more "boom" if the sub is running off the deck power could you not just toss in a small mono amp (if the deck would allow) and vola more "boom" ?
I wanted to take a molding of the box and make a mirror for the other side as well to keep the trunk nice and clean... thats my plan anyway...
#12
Senior Member
I think this is an awesome how to. Especially how you went into modifying the plans for a stock system. Eventually, that's what I would like to do, upgrade to the shallow mount Pioneer w/ a bridgeable amp and be done w/ it...
Thanks and I would rep ya but I'm out for the day.
Thanks and I would rep ya but I'm out for the day.
Last edited by Edubs; 10-12-2007 at 03:50 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#15
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Thread Starter
the stock one is a ten inch, yes.
buuuut... if you look at the photos, there is a lot of room around the basket.
the "size" really determines the distance of the mounting holes, not the size of the driver itself. so, one ten can be larger than another.
buuuut... if you look at the photos, there is a lot of room around the basket.
the "size" really determines the distance of the mounting holes, not the size of the driver itself. so, one ten can be larger than another.
#16
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are you still using the stock headunit or did you upgrade that as well. im gonna be doing a whole bunch of audio upgrades here shortly and have been hearing rumuors about needing a special connector to put in another amp + sub (which when you think about it is retarded because all you would need is the audio input from the stock sub and hook that into the amp and then from your new amp to your new sub) but ya back to my question if you did swap out your headunit did you have to use any special connector for the wiring harness?
#19
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im subscribing to this. i have been looking for this for a while now.
i think im going to go with a 800w 4ohm kicker shallow sub with a kenwood amp. but not sure what kind of amp im going to get.
if you see this post joe, how much of a difference did the upgrade make. and what kind of deck are you using?
i think im going to go with a 800w 4ohm kicker shallow sub with a kenwood amp. but not sure what kind of amp im going to get.
if you see this post joe, how much of a difference did the upgrade make. and what kind of deck are you using?
#22
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Thread Starter
uhhh, it's hard to say. my issue is now the stock head unit. soon (as soon as the radio is shipped) i'll be replacing it and should be able to give the sub a much better, cleaner, stronger signal and we'll see how hard it can get down.
the pioneer i have in there is running at about 1/3 of how much the amp could give it and it still hits harder than stock.... sooo yeah, it worked out well.
the pioneer i have in there is running at about 1/3 of how much the amp could give it and it still hits harder than stock.... sooo yeah, it worked out well.
#23
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Ok question: i think it was hinted around but i wanna make sure
Can i take the speaker wires that go in to the stock speaker from the stock amp, run them into a an after market amp that takes high level inputs or A converter, then power my replacement sub of f the the after market amp? Would this mess up the rear speakers or bother the stock amp and the after market amp.
Im looking for more bass but dont wanna lose a ton of trunk room
Can i take the speaker wires that go in to the stock speaker from the stock amp, run them into a an after market amp that takes high level inputs or A converter, then power my replacement sub of f the the after market amp? Would this mess up the rear speakers or bother the stock amp and the after market amp.
Im looking for more bass but dont wanna lose a ton of trunk room