Thats how it looked

 

Damn...Clean it up and get Powell's oil separator. That's the only way to stop it from getting valves gunk ever again! I'm gonna do this soon and I know mine will be like this. Sucks...

 

Lol i wont clean them until i can get powells separator. If i do it will be a waste of time. And lets not talk about the intake mani lol

 

[QUOTE=eddieavila10;7539142]Lol i wont clean them until i can get powells separator. If i do it will be a waste of time. And lets not talk about the intake mani lol[/QUOTE

I still have everything to clean them again. I will be doing it every 18 months or so.

Not buying the Powell separator.

Has anyone put a lot of miles on a separator and did a before and after? I'm sure it works but i'd like to know.

 

Yeah that would be a good idea. ^ not that i dont trust powell but some that cleaned the valves and then installed the separator. See how they look after some miles

 

I finished cleaning mine today. It wasnt so bad. Took about 12 hours to do. For those that are being lazy and thinking of seafoam or pretending that their valves arent that bad, just do it and have peace of mind. Plus, walnut blasting is a lot of fun!

 

I may sound dumb for asking this, For I am having a similar issue. Do you need to rotate the motor to ensure the valves are closed on each individual cylinder?

 

When you take off the intake manifold you will see which are open or closed. A closed valve is "up" open valve is down. You clean the closed valves. Then rotate the engine till the open valve goes closed. Then clean it. I jacked up the driver side wheel and turned it which rotated the engine. There are other ways like putting the car in reverse and pushing it backwards

 

Yeah clean 1 at a time. I think only 1 is open tho until u rotate it.

 

You can get three of them closed at once. Cylinders need to be at their 1/2 point or exactly halfway between bdc and tdc. One will be on intake. One on compression. One on power. And one on exhaust. You'll clean three and only need to turn the crank 180 to do the last one.

Just curious. Does a catch can help prevent gunking as bad? .

 

Catch can does nothing on LNF. Powell separator is it.

 

I did this a few weeks back. A few things I discovered along the way, DONT use any solvent to try to loosen the gunk. The walnut shells alone do the job, and you will soon be wearing any solvent you have sprayed on the valves! Just walnut shells, much better!

Also, reports of fuel mileage going up are not exaggerated. I picked up almost 4 mpg on mine. I also used this opportunity to swap out my injector seals. But one thing I dont understand, when I was finished with the motor all buttoned up And my moment of triumph was at hand, when I went to crank it, my motor cranked super fast, as though it had no compression and didn't even attempt to start. I had to crank it a good minute ( In 5 or 6 second spurts ) till it started trying to fire.

I had to push the gas down, then it stumbled to life and smoothed out. At first I thought my injector seals weren't sealing. But its fine now. I heard someone else say this happened to them too. No idea why. Walnut residue preventing the valves from sealing maybe?

 

I learned that doing walnut shells first then top end cleaner soaking was best. If you do solvent first the walnut shells will stock the wet walls from solvent.

If you pulled the fuel relay then you likely had no fuel in the lines. Hence why first start was tough.

 

The car taking a while to start will happen anytime you empty out the fuel rail. Takes a bit of time to get the air out. I went through the same thing with my new motor.

 

Double priming should help a bit

 

FYI I am testing the inevitable v.3 seperator that pulls the blow by, previously returned through to the inlet manifold, directly to the seperator, so the off boost vacuum pathway to the inlet manifold is eliminated. So is the internal check valve, so no chance of failure in that regard. Should be testing it next week. Its sort of a slam dunk, I have one Kappa running around for a year already with the mod ...life is good

 

Nice john i will be ordering one of those for sure

 

After I clean mine this summer I'm grabbing 1 too!! Waiting seems to paid off haha

 

Lol your absolutely right

 

Good thing that I waited cause I know John would improve his products. He always does...LOL!

 

Keep us up-to-date Mr. Powell.

 

Yes please cause I need one.

 

I just had to replace an engine in a Solstice that looks like it had a porous block or head gasket or something - we drained two litres of antifreeze out of it, but nothing in the engine oil it was clean as a whistle.

But someone had cleaned the inlet valves and there were walnut shell grit everywhere even in the bell housing of the transmission and under the injector rail. Please take care to mask off the port when you blast like a dentist working on a tooth, and use a vacuum running constantly to suck up the largest amount possible of kick back shell grit.

Inlet manifold test two will go on a Saturn sky later this week. Seems to me that eliminating the potential for unseperated blow by gasses entereing the inlet tract directly would be a good thing. The fix is easy , the plumbing for the rectification may be easy once i figure out where to put a run T in the system and we will be done. So then we will have pricing reflecting exchange manifolds or outright purchase. Problem is, the supply of decent inlet manifolds may not be infinite.... but meh. Car is five years out of production. Honor the timeless classics lol

 

Excuse my noobness here, but what exactly is a Kappa?

 

Click the link https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_Kappa_platform