Interior: Installed Boost Gauge (Warning: Long Install Instructions)
09-21-2005, 03:03 AM
#1
Domestics Pwn
Thread Starter
Installed Boost Gauge (Warning: Long Install Instructions)
I'll start with a thanks to Ray at revitup for the gauge ! 
Last night/Tonight I installed my new mechanical boost gauge.. Its an Auto Meter Ultra-Lite 2 1/16" mechanical gauge... Product # 4303.
Came with... The gauge, 6' of vacuum tubing, T-fitting, adapter for tubing to fitting, adapter to connect tubing to gauge, universal mounting clamp w/ 2 nuts,
light bulb w/ holder and wiring, and 2 light bulb condoms (green and red)...
Install was easy/moderate.
First I removed the A-pillar panel. You should notice the small circular cover towards the top of the panel. Remove this with a small
screwdriver or wedge. Behind it is a 7mm screw. Remove the screw. I also partially removed the door seal where it is touching the A-pillar panel. The panel is
attached with 2 clips. After removing the 7mm screw you just pull towards the center of the dash.
Once the A-pillar panel was removed I disconnected the electrical connector for the stock gauge. Now the A-pillar panel is completely disconnected.
Then I removed the stock gauge from the A-pillar panel. Stock gauge is secured by 2-10mm nuts. Its mounted into the panel by a piece of plastic built into the panel.
At this point I compared the 2 gauge. As they are both auto meters they look almost identical as far as the housing and mounting points. The only problem
is that is you attempt to use the stock mounting point you will find your gauge 90 degrees off...
bummer. Not to mention the stock gauge fits into the tight area
well because all it has is 4 small wires connecting it to the harness since its electrical. The mechanical gauge on the other hand once the line is connected into
it has the fittings sticking out about 1" (where the line goes into the gauge).....
So I looked it over and I either could have removed part of the stock mounting point, drilled a new hole into it, and secured the new gauge with 1 nut instead of 2.
Or I could just completely remove the stock mounting point from the panel and use the universal clamp..
I chose to just completely removed the stock point since I didnt want only 1 nut holding the gauge in and it was a lot less work.
The stock mounting point is very easy to remove as plastic seam that holds it to the panel is very very thin... You can pretty much remove the entire thing by
just starting a slight cut on one end with a razor blade and then tear it off. Once removed the universal clamp fits perfectly.
Now that the gauge was ready to be mounted up I assembled the vacuum tubing with the adapter so that I could connect it to the gauge. The instructions enclosed
with the gauge showed this pretty well... Only point of confusion I found was that they didnt show EXACTLY how the compression fitting (adapter for tubing to gauge)
went together... Just remember that the ferrul (looks like a BB with a hole drilled through it) goes over the vacuum tubing... Instructions should take you through
the rest..
After the line was assembled it was time to route the line from the interior into the engine bay. I decided to try and use of the stock grommets leading the
wiring harness from the interior going through the firewall. To access these pulled the carpet away at the foot rest area from behind the kick panel. After
pulling the carpet back I found that in GMs effort to reduce cabin noise they have covered the firewall with a sound deadening material. Its like a thin rubber
mat... This also partially removes from behind the kick panel and the little foam pad for the footrest is glued to it. There is not very much flexability to
this material so I ended up making a 5" cut in the material towards the top of the kick panel so that I could fold it back.
There are quite a few different grommets leading the harness into the engine bay. I picked the one that was highest up as it would be easier to grab the vacuum
tubing once it was pushed through. The grommet are all down below the brake master cylinder and very hard to reach so I thought this would be important.
To make the hole for the tubing I used my long T25 torx screwdriver and make a hole in part of the grommet (The grommet I used was about 1 1/2"
in diameter so there was plenty of room to do this and not compromise the grommet).
Then I routed the vacuum tubing down through the a pillar hole until I could see it coming down into the under dash area. Routed the vacuum tubing through
the hole I made in the existing wiring harness grommet into the engine bay. This was pretty tricky, A lot of stuff under the dash making a little bit of a pain
to get the line down where you can grab it. Also getting through the hole in the grommet is a pain because you have very little room to work with. I think this
would of been just about impossible if I did not make the 5" cut in the sound deadening material.
Once the vacuum tubing was in the engine bay area. I have it coming out of the firewall behind the fuse box below the master cylinder (General Area is
Pointed to by RED arrow in pic, Although you cant see because it is actually behind the fuse box). I pulled the tubing through, routing it behind the fuse box,
around the side, and ending up right at the supercharger bypass actuator valve (Location of vacuum supply line to bypass actuator valve shown by BLUE arrow in pic).
Then I cut the vacuum line shown in the pic above and installed the T-fitting. I used this line because it was the easiest vacuum line to access coming from the
intake manifold after the supercharer. Attached the adapter for the T-fitting to the vacuum tubing. Then attached the vacuum tubing. Everything in the engine bay
is now complete. Reinstalled the grommet I had used for the vacuum tubing since I had to partially remove it out of the firewall so that I could reach it well enough
to make the hole I needed.
I then reassembled the rubber mat and floor carpeting I had pulled to the side.
Now for the wiring of the light bulb. Wiring coming off of the stock boost gauge is about 3" to 3 1/2" long. It consists of 4 wires. 1 grey, 1 black, 1 brown, 1 red.
I cut the connector off of the stock gauge about 1 1/2" down the harness or approx 1/2 way between the gauge and the connector. Then using my test light on
the cars wiring harness I found that the grey wire is the voltage supply to the bulb. The black wire is the ground.
The bulb socket supplied with the new boost gauge has a white and black wire coming from it
I soldered the white wire on the bulb socket to the grey wire on the harness I cut from the stock gauge. Soldered the black wire on the bulb socket to the black wire
on the harness.
Doing it like this I didnt have to cut the vehicle harness and I could retain the stock connector for the gauge. I made sure I left enough length on both the
connector and stock gauge ends of the wiring so that I could return it to stock if I ever wanted to. Also using the stock wiring your dimmer still works with the new gauge.
Then I connected my new bulb socket connector back in to the harness to make sure it worked properly, and it did. So I mounted the new boost gauge
into the pillar panel using the universal mounting clamp and supplied nuts. Connected the vacuum tubing into the gauge. Twisted in my bulb socket in to the gauge.
Reinstalled the A-Pillar panel. Reinstalled the door seal I had partially removed.
Now I have a mechanical boost gauge... YAY
Sorry for having no pics for the instructions. Believe me I fully intended on proving a fully illustrated install. But of course.... My cameras batteries
died right after taking the first pic! I did not have any extras... I was on a pretty tight schedule during the install and didnt have time to run and get new ones.
SORRY
I really did try.
So I wasnt able to get new batteries till today after the install was completed.
Here are some pics of the final product... Sorry the quality sucks... Ill try and take some better shots tomorrow during the day time. I think it looks pretty good.
I didnt use any of the colored bulb condoms supplied with the gauge. Its nice having it though... Now with the Psi Fi kit the new gauge reads 17psi !
Last night/Tonight I installed my new mechanical boost gauge.. Its an Auto Meter Ultra-Lite 2 1/16" mechanical gauge... Product # 4303.
Came with... The gauge, 6' of vacuum tubing, T-fitting, adapter for tubing to fitting, adapter to connect tubing to gauge, universal mounting clamp w/ 2 nuts,
light bulb w/ holder and wiring, and 2 light bulb condoms (green and red)...
Install was easy/moderate.
First I removed the A-pillar panel. You should notice the small circular cover towards the top of the panel. Remove this with a small
screwdriver or wedge. Behind it is a 7mm screw. Remove the screw. I also partially removed the door seal where it is touching the A-pillar panel. The panel is
attached with 2 clips. After removing the 7mm screw you just pull towards the center of the dash.
Once the A-pillar panel was removed I disconnected the electrical connector for the stock gauge. Now the A-pillar panel is completely disconnected.
Then I removed the stock gauge from the A-pillar panel. Stock gauge is secured by 2-10mm nuts. Its mounted into the panel by a piece of plastic built into the panel.
At this point I compared the 2 gauge. As they are both auto meters they look almost identical as far as the housing and mounting points. The only problem
is that is you attempt to use the stock mounting point you will find your gauge 90 degrees off...
bummer. Not to mention the stock gauge fits into the tight area well because all it has is 4 small wires connecting it to the harness since its electrical. The mechanical gauge on the other hand once the line is connected into
it has the fittings sticking out about 1" (where the line goes into the gauge).....
So I looked it over and I either could have removed part of the stock mounting point, drilled a new hole into it, and secured the new gauge with 1 nut instead of 2.
Or I could just completely remove the stock mounting point from the panel and use the universal clamp..
I chose to just completely removed the stock point since I didnt want only 1 nut holding the gauge in and it was a lot less work.
The stock mounting point is very easy to remove as plastic seam that holds it to the panel is very very thin... You can pretty much remove the entire thing by
just starting a slight cut on one end with a razor blade and then tear it off. Once removed the universal clamp fits perfectly.
Now that the gauge was ready to be mounted up I assembled the vacuum tubing with the adapter so that I could connect it to the gauge. The instructions enclosed
with the gauge showed this pretty well... Only point of confusion I found was that they didnt show EXACTLY how the compression fitting (adapter for tubing to gauge)
went together... Just remember that the ferrul (looks like a BB with a hole drilled through it) goes over the vacuum tubing... Instructions should take you through
the rest..
After the line was assembled it was time to route the line from the interior into the engine bay. I decided to try and use of the stock grommets leading the
wiring harness from the interior going through the firewall. To access these pulled the carpet away at the foot rest area from behind the kick panel. After
pulling the carpet back I found that in GMs effort to reduce cabin noise they have covered the firewall with a sound deadening material. Its like a thin rubber
mat... This also partially removes from behind the kick panel and the little foam pad for the footrest is glued to it. There is not very much flexability to
this material so I ended up making a 5" cut in the material towards the top of the kick panel so that I could fold it back.
There are quite a few different grommets leading the harness into the engine bay. I picked the one that was highest up as it would be easier to grab the vacuum
tubing once it was pushed through. The grommet are all down below the brake master cylinder and very hard to reach so I thought this would be important.
To make the hole for the tubing I used my long T25 torx screwdriver and make a hole in part of the grommet (The grommet I used was about 1 1/2"
in diameter so there was plenty of room to do this and not compromise the grommet).
Then I routed the vacuum tubing down through the a pillar hole until I could see it coming down into the under dash area. Routed the vacuum tubing through
the hole I made in the existing wiring harness grommet into the engine bay. This was pretty tricky, A lot of stuff under the dash making a little bit of a pain
to get the line down where you can grab it. Also getting through the hole in the grommet is a pain because you have very little room to work with. I think this
would of been just about impossible if I did not make the 5" cut in the sound deadening material.
Once the vacuum tubing was in the engine bay area. I have it coming out of the firewall behind the fuse box below the master cylinder (General Area is
Pointed to by RED arrow in pic, Although you cant see because it is actually behind the fuse box). I pulled the tubing through, routing it behind the fuse box,
around the side, and ending up right at the supercharger bypass actuator valve (Location of vacuum supply line to bypass actuator valve shown by BLUE arrow in pic).
Then I cut the vacuum line shown in the pic above and installed the T-fitting. I used this line because it was the easiest vacuum line to access coming from the
intake manifold after the supercharer. Attached the adapter for the T-fitting to the vacuum tubing. Then attached the vacuum tubing. Everything in the engine bay
is now complete. Reinstalled the grommet I had used for the vacuum tubing since I had to partially remove it out of the firewall so that I could reach it well enough
to make the hole I needed.
I then reassembled the rubber mat and floor carpeting I had pulled to the side.
Now for the wiring of the light bulb. Wiring coming off of the stock boost gauge is about 3" to 3 1/2" long. It consists of 4 wires. 1 grey, 1 black, 1 brown, 1 red.
I cut the connector off of the stock gauge about 1 1/2" down the harness or approx 1/2 way between the gauge and the connector. Then using my test light on
the cars wiring harness I found that the grey wire is the voltage supply to the bulb. The black wire is the ground.
The bulb socket supplied with the new boost gauge has a white and black wire coming from it
I soldered the white wire on the bulb socket to the grey wire on the harness I cut from the stock gauge. Soldered the black wire on the bulb socket to the black wire
on the harness.
Doing it like this I didnt have to cut the vehicle harness and I could retain the stock connector for the gauge. I made sure I left enough length on both the
connector and stock gauge ends of the wiring so that I could return it to stock if I ever wanted to. Also using the stock wiring your dimmer still works with the new gauge.
Then I connected my new bulb socket connector back in to the harness to make sure it worked properly, and it did. So I mounted the new boost gauge
into the pillar panel using the universal mounting clamp and supplied nuts. Connected the vacuum tubing into the gauge. Twisted in my bulb socket in to the gauge.
Reinstalled the A-Pillar panel. Reinstalled the door seal I had partially removed.
Now I have a mechanical boost gauge... YAY
Sorry for having no pics for the instructions. Believe me I fully intended on proving a fully illustrated install. But of course.... My cameras batteries
died right after taking the first pic! I did not have any extras... I was on a pretty tight schedule during the install and didnt have time to run and get new ones.
SORRY
I really did try. So I wasnt able to get new batteries till today after the install was completed.
Here are some pics of the final product... Sorry the quality sucks... Ill try and take some better shots tomorrow during the day time. I think it looks pretty good.
I didnt use any of the colored bulb condoms supplied with the gauge. Its nice having it though... Now with the Psi Fi kit the new gauge reads 17psi !
Last edited by TommyP; 05-23-2012 at 01:17 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Mr.SS/SC (06-23-2016)
09-21-2005, 09:09 AM
#4
Domestics Pwn
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by selfinfliction
nice write up man. this should be in the "how to" section
was it just reading the 12.5 with the stock guage before you swapped it?
was it just reading the 12.5 with the stock guage before you swapped it?
09-21-2005, 09:50 AM
#6
Member
Join Date: 06-22-05
Location: Plano, IL
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ExHondaMan
Actually the highest I ever saw was 10.5.
09-21-2005, 12:08 PM
#9
Domestics Pwn
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by zinner
Moving to the Howto section.
But I figured what the hell
09-23-2005, 05:26 PM
#10
Banned
Join Date: 05-01-05
Location: USA
Posts: 3,628
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
to the installer- i have a question-
When u go to take the a-pillar off, your reffering to taking the little knob off that says "airbag" off (popping it off, with a screw behind it) i just want to make sure that my airbag is not going to pop out, i thought that was the airbag right there...
last question, when you took the stock boost gauge out, is the light in there replaceable, like we could go buy a brighter light for it?? Thanks!
When u go to take the a-pillar off, your reffering to taking the little knob off that says "airbag" off (popping it off, with a screw behind it) i just want to make sure that my airbag is not going to pop out, i thought that was the airbag right there...
last question, when you took the stock boost gauge out, is the light in there replaceable, like we could go buy a brighter light for it?? Thanks!
09-23-2005, 06:22 PM
#11
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: 02-07-05
Location: PA
Posts: 984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had to do this a couple of months ago, when I got my psi-fi kit.
If you want it to match the red lighting of the needles etc., pick up one of the red l.e.d. bulbs for autometer gauges. It lights up the boost gauge with a crisp bright red halo. Much better than the regular bulbs. The red is just about a perfect match.
If you'd like I can get some pics tonight and post them in this thread. Same gauge, Autometer Ultra-Lite, except mine maxes at 20psi.
-Travis
If you want it to match the red lighting of the needles etc., pick up one of the red l.e.d. bulbs for autometer gauges. It lights up the boost gauge with a crisp bright red halo. Much better than the regular bulbs. The red is just about a perfect match.
If you'd like I can get some pics tonight and post them in this thread. Same gauge, Autometer Ultra-Lite, except mine maxes at 20psi.
-Travis
09-24-2005, 12:06 AM
#13
Domestics Pwn
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by silverSS
to the installer- i have a question-
When u go to take the a-pillar off, your reffering to taking the little knob off that says "airbag" off (popping it off, with a screw behind it) i just want to make sure that my airbag is not going to pop out, i thought that was the airbag right there...
last question, when you took the stock boost gauge out, is the light in there replaceable, like we could go buy a brighter light for it?? Thanks!
When u go to take the a-pillar off, your reffering to taking the little knob off that says "airbag" off (popping it off, with a screw behind it) i just want to make sure that my airbag is not going to pop out, i thought that was the airbag right there...
last question, when you took the stock boost gauge out, is the light in there replaceable, like we could go buy a brighter light for it?? Thanks!
Are you asking about the light in the Stock boost gauge ? If so.... I dont believe you can replace it... there is no bulb in the back of it... To get to whatever illuminates it you would have to take the gauge apart.
If you asking about the new gauge... To me its bright enough... BUT I think you can find either leds or a higher watt bulb that you can replace what is supplied with the gauge...
09-24-2005, 12:38 AM
#15
Banned
Join Date: 05-01-05
Location: USA
Posts: 3,628
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea on my a pillar towars the top their is a little circular button looking thing, and says "airbag" on it, ive been scared to pop it off, as the airbag might come out!!!! 
i want to take a look at the stock gauge and try to replace the light tho...
oh and, yes a night pic would be awesome
turbo eco, lets see the pics!!
i want to take a look at the stock gauge and try to replace the light tho...
oh and, yes a night pic would be awesome
turbo eco, lets see the pics!!
09-24-2005, 02:23 PM
#16
Domestics Pwn
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by JonelZ
A lot better then the stock one 
Do you have a night pic?
Do you have a night pic?
09-24-2005, 11:54 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: 06-01-05
Location: Miami
Posts: 3,622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by wesmanw02
Now this would be the ultimate gauge to replace the stock unit with
Im installing that one this upcoming weekend
along with a AF one. Now where should i put that AF ratio one. lol my car does have side airbags
09-25-2005, 06:26 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-15-05
Location: OP, KS
Posts: 2,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Ljavy17
Im installing that one this upcoming weekend
along with a AF one. Now where should i put that AF ratio one. lol my car does have side airbags
along with a AF one. Now where should i put that AF ratio one. lol my car does have side airbags
09-27-2005, 12:48 AM
#21
Domestics Pwn
Thread Starter
Thanks, I really like it. I like the brightness of it too... or the lack thereof... Its actually kind of dim... but to me thats perfect... I dont want a spotlight glowing in my a-pillar... Its just bright enough to see clearly at night...
10-03-2005, 11:17 PM
#25
Domestics Pwn
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by SwizzDSMSS
LOL the best part is it is night time and the car reads 100F!!! LOL...Damn Arizona. Holla back Apache Junction!!! haha
Wild too !
Those pics where while the car was in my garage at 10pm at night..... AT THE END OF SEPTEMBER !!!!! It was 97F today.... Its ok though... Because in January people will have on there snow tires or have their SS garaged..... Mine will just be running good with the cool weather !