We used a lift and a hydraulic press and did the whole installation in about 20 minutes! :-) at about 1300RPM it feels like plane turbulence, but i have only had em in for an hour. did the Control Arm Bushings and the tranny mounts in about an hour and a half with some screwing around. I <3 hydraulic presses and lifts!

 

Nice... I will be using this in about a week or two.

 

I bought the full poly/billet replacement but would still like to know torque specs if anyone has them as I would like to install them tommorow before the track. thanks

 

Just installed my Prothane tranny mount bushings yesterday, and I just wanted to add my observations.

First, as another poster already mentioned it's fairly easy to pry the stock bushings out with a large flathead screwdriver. No matter which way you go, however, your stock bushings are going to be toast (They may be re-useable if you get them pressed out instead). If you are that worried about going back to stock later, go to a wrecker and find yourself some tranny mount cores. Modify those and keep your old ones safe.

Second, the rear transmission mount can easily be done without taking out the entire assembly as shown in this how to. Just unbolt the three 15mm bolts that hold the mount to the rear subframe, and the 18mm through-bolt, and you can push the mount upwards, rotate it around a bit and then drop it out. It's tough to explain, just play with it a bit and you'll figure it out.

The front mount on the 2.2L/2.4L engines is different, but the concept is the same. One 18mm through-bolt and three 15mm bolts that go into the transmission. Our front mount is made out of some kind of injected plastic, which made me a bit nervous, but I was able to pry the old mount out and press the new one in using a vice without damaging it. I was **** scared I would crack it and be SOL...

This is a very worthwhile mod, but not really something for the feint of heart. If you're prepared to give up all remaining quiet and luxury for a real performance "feel", however, go crazy

 

to avoid the pressing in and out i just bought the ones from Cobalt addiction with the billet mount and poly core. simple in out swap. love em

 

I just put Prothane Trans mounts in my 07 cobalt 2.2L... very effective at taking care of drivetrain slack. But my engine vibrations are horrible between idle and 1,200 RPMS. It shakes the WHOLE car! I'm hoping that they will ease up a little and not be so stiff because it really is redicilous!

 

I've got just over a week on mine. Mine have broken in a bit, car sounds pretty nice when it's warm out but pretty rough in the mornings when it is cold. I'm hoping they break in just a bit more... I'm not looking forward to my first winter with them in!

What I AM looking forward too though, is how much these help improve my 60' times

 

i just wanna subscribe cause i am going to do mine

 

just installed my Intense poly mounst and it took all of about a half hour the hardes this was lining the engine holes back up witheh the mount.

Like the previous members stated the vibrations are terrible hope fully they go away after a couple hundred miles .

I think the shifting is better and the wheel hop is gone just spinning of tires.

Now I feel I can go tot the track with out braking something. I don't launch at a high RPM but at least it will help my 60ft time

 

The vibes will lighten up in about 250-500 miles. I have installed these a couple times and I would recommned the Cobalt performance parts one over the intense ones. They are just so much easier to get them back into the stock location. It seems like the Intense ones are made just a little to big. Plus the cpp ones are cheaper.

 

There is a possibility you can break a axle be careful or they will be gone

 

then I guess it will be time to upgrade the axles

 

I attempted to install the inserts myself but quickly lost patience. I took it to a local machine shop, spent $20, the bushings were installed in a matter of minutes. Great write up though, for someone who has patience.

 

Thanks for the write-up - helped me out today!

I just used standard grease, a rubber mallet, and two medium screwdrivers to get the inserts in - its a lot easier if you wait to put the metal tube in the middle after the insert is in the frame.

 

Another guy from the forums helped me install these. We decided to cut off the one of the lips to get it in. I dont think itl do much but i jus wanna see wat you guys have to say.

 

Anyone happen to know the torque specs for the two transmission mount's fasteners?

 

PolishpauL, I had this same concern after doing the same thing to the mounts installed in a friends car. Everybody i spoke to, including the distributor, said it should be okay. I work with a lot of techs. None of them saw a problem with it. So, we installed mine today the exact same way. I'm satisfied.

Just one question, does it get quieter inside the car after the mounts settle/break-in?

BTW, does anybody know what the rating for the cv's is? I'm pretty much stock, and just ordered drag slick tires and wheels. I know there is an inherent risk with drag racing, but I would like to know just how soon I will be needing to start carrying replacement axles to the track.

 

Some people have luck, some do not. The stock axles are extremely prone to breaking if you wheel hop. Other than that, it's hit or miss whether people have broke them or not...

 

put mine in yesterday, they are cool, but the vibrations are gonna have to grow on me, def got better throttle response.

 

Great how to

 

well.. after about 30 mins of trying to break the bolts loose.. I gave up. they kicked my ass for sure. =P Guess I just look for a ocal machine shop or something. On the contrary though.. I did remove the fender well to peek at my stock ss/sc intake.. and popped off the bottom cover just being nosey. Well.. then I wanted to look at the filter so I pulled it out. Now heres somethin kinda funny... did any of you other guys get a little orange screwdriver stuck inside of your stock filter?? One for snap on tools... lol.. cause I had one INSIDE of the filter. In any case I got a new mini screwdriver and found out more about my car.

Cliff notes: Balt's bolts kicked my ass. Won a free mini screwdriver for my efforts.

 

The question never got answered as to what do we torque these mounts to when putting back on the engine. For the upper motor mount that had 15 mm bolts, those are torqued to 37 lbs. Are the bolts for the trans mounts the same? or because they're 17 mm they should be torqued more?

Seems like somebody should know this.

 

sorry to bump this but how exactly can you "press" the old inserts out to keep 'em reusable? I'm taking mine to a shop in 2 days and they didn't seem to think about this solution, they wanted to cut 'em instead.

thanks

 

Why would you keep them re-usable?

They are super glued to the mount... but I suppose that instead of CUTTING them... you would have to wedge a screwdriver in between the mount and the rubber. Then pry your way around. But it is HARDER THAN HELL.

Just cut them. They will serve no purpose later on. You CAN'T really reuse them... not safely at least.

That's fuggin hilarious!!!

If you still need the info... which I doubt you do... go to GMTunerSOurce.com... and go to Build Books... then LSJ buildbooks. It's like chapter 5 that explains how to take out and put in an LSJ's tranny. It'll have torque specs for you there.

 

I used a 20 ton press to get them out in one piece. Not really for reuse, though, just cause cutting them seemed like a PITA and I, well...had a 20 ton press next to me...