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General Suspension: rear spring install & bumpstop cut

Old Aug 24, 2006 | 11:26 AM
  #26  
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From: Cincy
T/O!! The spring is not wrapped around the strut/shock on the rear? Maybe I am too used to Honda's wow that looks way to easy
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 04:08 AM
  #27  
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From: AZ
Originally Posted by hardtocope
so is cutting the bumpstops in the rear a bad solution?
I don't see how cutting the bumpstops is benefiting you. The bumpstops are there to STOP you from bottoming out. If you cut them or remove them you'll have the same issues as with them there, the only difference with removed bumpstops is that you won't feel it because there is nothing to bounce off of.

If you don't want to bounce off the bump stops then get a good pair of struts. If you want your suspension to really dip down over those bumps and have nothing to catch it, removeyour bump stops.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 01:09 AM
  #28  
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From: Denton
since your stock springs are bigger that means the bump stop bigger, shorter spring = smaller bump stop, simple as that quit making it so complicated
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 02:14 AM
  #29  
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From: Greenwood, SC
Originally Posted by xxdarkbladexx
since your stock springs are bigger that means the bump stop bigger, shorter spring = smaller bump stop, simple as that quit making it so complicated
agreed, cut about 1 cm off your rear bumpstops
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 07:47 AM
  #30  
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ok first off i use to own a 97 pickup lowrider that set about 2 and half inches off the ground ::no bags:: well the first time i lowered the truck i went with a 3 inch drop and 3 in the front....well i didnt remove the bumpstops on the bac and my truck bottomed out badly when it hit the bumpstops and eventually made dents in the bed right above the tires b/c of the bad hitting....i removed the bumpstops and put a stiffer shock on the truck and it worked great....so its all about what do u want.....u can cause quarter panel damage if u drop the car 2 inches if u dont cut the bumpstop ::and it will happen if u leave it there long enough:: or u can remove the bumpstop and get a stiffer shock on the back...i have decided to do the tenzo r springs which will drop my base 2 inches in the front and 2.5 in the back...i will also be adding a stiffer shock to the back for extra support but i will be removing the bumpstops
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 09:27 AM
  #31  
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From: Greenwood, SC
Originally Posted by 05sedan
ok first off i use to own a 97 pickup lowrider that set about 2 and half inches off the ground ::no bags:: well the first time i lowered the truck i went with a 3 inch drop and 3 in the front....well i didnt remove the bumpstops on the bac and my truck bottomed out badly when it hit the bumpstops and eventually made dents in the bed right above the tires b/c of the bad hitting....i removed the bumpstops and put a stiffer shock on the truck and it worked great....so its all about what do u want.....u can cause quarter panel damage if u drop the car 2 inches if u dont cut the bumpstop ::and it will happen if u leave it there long enough:: or u can remove the bumpstop and get a stiffer shock on the back...i have decided to do the tenzo r springs which will drop my base 2 inches in the front and 2.5 in the back...i will also be adding a stiffer shock to the back for extra support but i will be removing the bumpstops
i thought the tenzo drop was 2 in the rear and 2.5 in the front
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 12:50 PM
  #32  
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From: Anniston,Alabama
no 2 in the front and 2.5 in the back
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 09:57 PM
  #33  
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From: Florida
bump
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 10:53 PM
  #34  
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You guys are missing a very big point here. Different springs drop the car different amounts. You would cut the stop if the drop demands it and the instuctions call for it. Eibach Pro-kit specifically says to NOT cut the stops, while the Sportlines say to cut off just a small amount. Follow the instructions. If you didn't get any, then don't cut anything at first. Drive it. If it bump-stops excessively, then trim it a little bit a time. But NEVER just remove it.
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Old Oct 7, 2006 | 03:56 PM
  #35  
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From: Ft. Eustis, VA
I removed mine if I have any problems it won't take but 30 minutes to reinstall them and thats racking the car, etc. Install was CAKE. Then again I did have a alignment rack since I do front end work so I just put the body on the jack stands and used the jack made into the rack to raise the beam.

I did use a spring compressor to make it easier to slide over the nipples. Rear took me 15 mins as the front...HAHAHAHA! Let's just not go there first side I spent twice as long as the other side.
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Old Oct 7, 2006 | 11:22 PM
  #36  
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From: Rockwood, MI
wow that looks really easy. I thaught i would need some spring compressors or something to get the job done. The rear looks very easy. Is the front just as simple?
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 01:31 PM
  #37  
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From: Ft. Eustis, VA
Originally Posted by biniecki
wow that looks really easy. I thaught i would need some spring compressors or something to get the job done. The rear looks very easy. Is the front just as simple?
You still need the compressors. The front is not so difficult, but your dealing with springs with a lot of pressure. The rear lost the force when you lowered the rear beam so they were easy to remove.
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 08:48 PM
  #38  
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From: Florida
do you need a spring compressor for the rear springs?
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Old Nov 28, 2006 | 10:09 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by hardtocope
do you need a spring compressor for the rear springs?
nope

.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 03:51 PM
  #40  
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is it possible for me to do one side at a time on the rear or does the whole beam have drop inorder to get the springs? can i just use a spring compressor and compress the one rear spring then drop the one shock bolt and pull the spring out?
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 04:00 PM
  #41  
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Whole beam at once is necessary. Get some jack stands, it's very easy that way.
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 04:06 PM
  #42  
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how bout a pic where to put jack stands in the back....
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Old Dec 9, 2006 | 08:31 PM
  #43  
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From: Florida
it just seems to be easier to do one spring at a time if you don't have anyone helping you in the rear. So the rear has to be done at hte same time, doing one at a time is impossible?
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 01:11 AM
  #44  
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Perhaps you misunderstand me. First, don't over think this. This is a very easy job to do. You MUST jack the entire rear of the car off the ground. Both wheels MUST be in the air. But then, you can do one spring at a time if you want to. It's actually easier to do both at once since you already have the axle completely off the ground. Otherwise you have to fight the against the other side being still attached.
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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 03:13 AM
  #45  
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i never cut my bump stops off and i used the eibach sportlines
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 01:57 PM
  #46  
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From: canada
Hey Buddy , By chance, were those purple springs Tenzos?
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 01:35 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Drag-Sargeant
Hey Buddy , By chance, were those purple springs Tenzos?

yes

.
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 01:21 PM
  #48  
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i'm kinda stuck on step three, i cant get the spring out, i have the bolt out but i cant "twist and pull the spring out" can anyone please tell me how to twist it i guess?

nevermind about that last post, i wasnt pulling down

Last edited by Thatsit; Nov 4, 2007 at 01:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Nov 10, 2007 | 10:42 PM
  #49  
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From: Exit 29, NY
What is the torque spec on the bolt that was removed?

later
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Old Jun 8, 2008 | 06:47 PM
  #50  
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thanks man....just did my rears in about 20mins
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