Appearance: V-LEDs V3 Triton Switchbacks Install
12-20-2012, 09:18 PM
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V-LEDs V3 Triton Switchbacks Install
This is a V-LEDs V3 Triton Switchbacks Install guide. The instructions that came with it are very easy to follow, but figured a How-to for our cars wouldn’t be a bad thing. Let’s get started
Tools you will need:
- 10mm socket and ratchet
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Electrical Tape
- V-LEDs V3 Triton Switchbacks
Like I said earlier, the instructions that came with it are very easy to follow, so I don’t have a ton of pictures for this, but I’ll explain as I go. I assume that you know how to remove your headlights, but if you don’t, there is a how to on here.
1) You will get a lot of stuff in the box since this is meant for a universal install. You will only need the following things from it: V3_Base 3156, (2) 25mm Adaptor Collar, M3 4mm machine screws, 41mmx3mm Sealing Gasket. I also included the box that the inline resistors which are V3-CLS40
The rest of the stuff can go back in the box. The sealing gasket might vary if you don’t have the 3rd gen projectors
2) Place the 25mm Adaptor collars around each of the bulbs and use 2 M3 4mm machine screws in each one. Place the sealing gasket around the top of the bulb.
3) Twist the bulb in to the headlight socket and make sure it feels like it’s solid.
4) If you bough the inline resistors with the package, this is going to get a bit tricky. It’s a matter of what order everything connects to in order for it to function. Connect the V3 Triton Dual Color LED lighting system to the bulb. Make sure to use the side that DOES NOT have the white wire coming from it.
5) OPTIONAL: While where on this part, go ahead and take the white wire and connect it to the positive wire for the low beam headlight. Since I have the 3rd gen headlights, I just stripped enough of the wire to connect it. I recommend this step because the bulbs are super bright. This reduces the power to the bulb by 50%.
6) Take the resistors (V3-CLS) and connect it to the side with the white wire from step 4.
7) Almost done! Connect the other two wires from the V3-CLS to the V3_Base 3156. Connect the base to the bulb socket of your headlight harness. Get the electrical tape and wrap it around the bulb socket and base. This will ensure that no water gets in to the contacts. You may have receives some silicon in your box which I believe is intended for this part, but I didn’t want to chance it and electrical tap was easier to work with.
8) I also went ahead and used electrical tape around the connections between each of the boxes to ensure that no water gets in and so that they don’t disconnect while driving. I have both of the boxes resting behind the headlight brackete and the wheel well. The connections are solid, and I don’t think they’ll go anywhere. I’ll need a warmer day and more light to see if they can be put anywhere else. The wires are short though so it’s hard to put them anywhere for one with the size of the headlights themselves. Guys with the stock headlights might have a little more wiggle room though.
9) Test them out and make sure all of the connections are good and solid. If all went well, then they should look and functions like the following pictures.
Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll do my best to answer them.
Video is currently being uploaded but will be available at this link here: V-LED's V3 Triton Switchbacks - YouTube
Tools you will need:
- 10mm socket and ratchet
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Electrical Tape
- V-LEDs V3 Triton Switchbacks
Like I said earlier, the instructions that came with it are very easy to follow, so I don’t have a ton of pictures for this, but I’ll explain as I go. I assume that you know how to remove your headlights, but if you don’t, there is a how to on here.
1) You will get a lot of stuff in the box since this is meant for a universal install. You will only need the following things from it: V3_Base 3156, (2) 25mm Adaptor Collar, M3 4mm machine screws, 41mmx3mm Sealing Gasket. I also included the box that the inline resistors which are V3-CLS40
The rest of the stuff can go back in the box. The sealing gasket might vary if you don’t have the 3rd gen projectors
2) Place the 25mm Adaptor collars around each of the bulbs and use 2 M3 4mm machine screws in each one. Place the sealing gasket around the top of the bulb.
3) Twist the bulb in to the headlight socket and make sure it feels like it’s solid.
4) If you bough the inline resistors with the package, this is going to get a bit tricky. It’s a matter of what order everything connects to in order for it to function. Connect the V3 Triton Dual Color LED lighting system to the bulb. Make sure to use the side that DOES NOT have the white wire coming from it.
5) OPTIONAL: While where on this part, go ahead and take the white wire and connect it to the positive wire for the low beam headlight. Since I have the 3rd gen headlights, I just stripped enough of the wire to connect it. I recommend this step because the bulbs are super bright. This reduces the power to the bulb by 50%.
6) Take the resistors (V3-CLS) and connect it to the side with the white wire from step 4.
7) Almost done! Connect the other two wires from the V3-CLS to the V3_Base 3156. Connect the base to the bulb socket of your headlight harness. Get the electrical tape and wrap it around the bulb socket and base. This will ensure that no water gets in to the contacts. You may have receives some silicon in your box which I believe is intended for this part, but I didn’t want to chance it and electrical tap was easier to work with.
8) I also went ahead and used electrical tape around the connections between each of the boxes to ensure that no water gets in and so that they don’t disconnect while driving. I have both of the boxes resting behind the headlight brackete and the wheel well. The connections are solid, and I don’t think they’ll go anywhere. I’ll need a warmer day and more light to see if they can be put anywhere else. The wires are short though so it’s hard to put them anywhere for one with the size of the headlights themselves. Guys with the stock headlights might have a little more wiggle room though.
9) Test them out and make sure all of the connections are good and solid. If all went well, then they should look and functions like the following pictures.
Let me know if you have any questions and I’ll do my best to answer them.
Video is currently being uploaded but will be available at this link here: V-LED's V3 Triton Switchbacks - YouTube
Last edited by z062007vette; 12-29-2012 at 07:47 PM.
12-22-2012, 10:40 AM
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The one's I got are 6K (I think the only ones they sell that are switchback actually). It's not an exact match, but pretty darn close. My DLSR batter was charging when I did the install, so I'll go out later and take some better pics.
12-23-2012, 10:37 PM
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The CLS and the main controller are big ass bricks. I placed them behind the mounting brackets on each side. They don't move down there because of the weight of them. I think the box I got them in said the total either was around 4 pounds. Think each brick was about a pound each.
I'll take a video tomorrow. They're bright!
I'll take a video tomorrow. They're bright!
12-24-2012, 12:39 AM
#10
The CLS and the main controller are big ass bricks. I placed them behind the mounting brackets on each side. They don't move down there because of the weight of them. I think the box I got them in said the total either was around 4 pounds. Think each brick was about a pound each.
I'll take a video tomorrow. They're bright!
I'll take a video tomorrow. They're bright!
12-29-2012, 07:47 PM
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Video is currently being uploaded but will be available at this link here: V-LED's V3 Triton Switchbacks - YouTube I've updated the OP with the link as well.
12-31-2012, 11:42 AM
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^^ This and they're still showing in pre-order so I get them now before they're $139.99. Get the CLS module too unless you don't care about hyped flash.
