NE Ohio Thread FTW
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From: oHIo
Well if the nuts are stripped that would be a problem. I'd spray the crap out of it with PB blaster first and let it set a while. Mine stripped as well when I changed them but I got lucky and managed to twist it slow enough while prying up with pliers that it caught the threads enough to spin off. Only advice I have is use a nutcracker or chisel. I've had to do it both ways. I don't think nutcrackers are too expensive at the store. I know sears used to have them. NAPA may have them too if you have one close by.
Well if the nuts are stripped that would be a problem. I'd spray the crap out of it with PB blaster first and let it set a while. Mine stripped as well when I changed them but I got lucky and managed to twist it slow enough while prying up with pliers that it caught the threads enough to spin off. Only advice I have is use a nutcracker or chisel. I've had to do it both ways. I don't think nutcrackers are too expensive at the store. I know sears used to have them. NAPA may have them too if you have one close by.
The FE3 links I bought are way shorter than the factory ones on the car. Are FE5 any shorter? I know there are 9" or 11" ones so I'm assuming FE3 and FE5 are the same.
From Rockauto... MOOG Part # K750012 {#15787554, 20784688, 22708767} Problem Solver; 9.86" Center to Center Front; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces; 9.86" length center to center; (RPO code FE3) $19:42
MOOG Part # K80252 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Problem Solver Front; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces; 11.80" length center to center $23.79
MOOG Part # K80252 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Problem Solver Front; Incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces; 11.80" length center to center $23.79
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From: oHIo
I've had to chisel a nut in half to split enough to get it off. Hammers and chisels are a last resort! 
But AIR CHISELS ARE FUN!
I have an LSJ and used all the FE5 parts (K750012 rod ends, struts, springsfrom CED). It has clunked ever since and I've had multiple people look at it, even the dealer! The longer links may be necessary for your sway bar/mount setup. Unless you are intending on getting a different sway bar I'd stick with the longer rod ends like are on the car. I verified that the K750012 links are definitely for the 08-10 FE5 (9.86"). So if yours are 11", you should get those. The LS and LT cobalts use the 11.8" long rod ends as well.
But AIR CHISELS ARE FUN!I have an LSJ and used all the FE5 parts (K750012 rod ends, struts, springsfrom CED). It has clunked ever since and I've had multiple people look at it, even the dealer! The longer links may be necessary for your sway bar/mount setup. Unless you are intending on getting a different sway bar I'd stick with the longer rod ends like are on the car. I verified that the K750012 links are definitely for the 08-10 FE5 (9.86"). So if yours are 11", you should get those. The LS and LT cobalts use the 11.8" long rod ends as well.
You should be able to fit an 18 mm wench just blow the rubber boot. There's a nut there fora reason and or put a wench on the bottom nut and I think it's a 7 or 8 mm on the end of the threads and loosen it that way. At least my moogs and stockers were like that
Really? I didn't see any other nut, just the rubber boot. So is it hidden?
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From: oHIo
I think what he is saying is underneath the rubber boot, there is a hex nut to put a wrench on. If your nut is stripped it may not matter much, but you can try to get a wrench or vicegrips on that hex part most likely.
Alright, if all else fails, I can just cut that bolt through right?
I cut them off, and accidentally nicked my aluminum control arm. I filled it with jb weld though. At least the new end links are on. That was a job.
Last edited by Pitbull2o08; Apr 2, 2014 at 08:46 PM.
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From: oHIo
Don't worry, once they wear out again in 15k miles you'll remember how to do it easier an faster lol. It's funny and sad because it's not that far from the truth. I replaced every suspension part and I'm pretty sure after 10-15k miles it was all back to junk again. Thank you youngstown ODOT department. I pray for pot holes, out there they have CAR holes.
Don't worry, once they wear out again in 15k miles you'll remember how to do it easier an faster lol. It's funny and sad because it's not that far from the truth. I replaced every suspension part and I'm pretty sure after 10-15k miles it was all back to junk again. Thank you youngstown ODOT department. I pray for pot holes, out there they have CAR holes.
