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So I have had my cobalt for a bit, just really never joined here yet. I currently have an '09 Chevy Cobalt LS coupe turned ss clone. I am in school for automotive work, and am currently trying to find a way to twin turbo a cobalt ss/tc as a school project. But, unfortunately I am in school so my projects are extremely slow moving, but today I did manage to finally acquire an ss rear axle, and get ready to put disc brakes on my coupe. I've always hated how there has never been a template for a conversion, so I made it myself and made it available to everyone for free since not everyone can be lucky enough to get an ss rear axle. I am also good at metal work, so I might make some for people who don't want to make the the plates themselves. I'm still trying to figure out prices, so I might just make them in batches to keep costs low.
Last edited by foxandwolfproduction; Dec 6, 2019 at 01:39 AM.
So I have had my cobalt for a bit, just really never joined here yet. I currently have an '09 Chevy Cobalt LS coupe turned ss clone. I am in school for automotive work, and am currently trying to find a way to twin turbo a cobalt ss/tc as a school project. But, unfortunately I am in school so my projects are extremely slow moving, but today I did manage to finally acquire an ss rear axle, and get ready to put disc brakes on my coupe. I've always hated how there has never been a template for a conversion, so I made it myself and made it available to everyone for free since not everyone can be lucky enough to get an ss rear axle. I am also good at metal work, so I might make some for people who don't want to make the the plates themselves. I'm still trying to figure out prices, so I might just make them in batches to keep costs low.
You could have a fab shop blow these out on a laser or plasma table quickly and cheaply. I'd guess for a batch of 50 you are looking at maybe $5 to $7 a piece assuming A36 steel is utilized. If you provided dimensions or very accurate 1:1 scale geometry I could sketch this up and provide various 3D or 2D formats. .DXF is what my fabricator imports directly to their laser machine. Thanks for sharing! If more people in car communities would collaborate instead of keeping everything super cerial top secret we could do some cool ****.
I got a 4 lug, but I'll be swapping to a 5 lug whenever I put on my brembo brakes. I'll make a post about that because it's a home-built kit with cadillac xts brembos on the front with redrilled gt500 rotors, and I'll be putting the stock cobalt ss brembos on the rear for a full brake kit. And I will make a free template for the front adapter bracket to put the xts/camaro ss calipers on the front whenever I finally order the rotors and get measurements for caliper placement.
You could have a fab shop blow these out on a laser or plasma table quickly and cheaply. I'd guess for a batch of 50 you are looking at maybe $5 to $7 a piece assuming A36 steel is utilized. If you provided dimensions or very accurate 1:1 scale geometry I could sketch this up and provide various 3D or 2D formats. .DXF is what my fabricator imports directly to their laser machine. Thanks for sharing! If more people in car communities would collaborate instead of keeping everything super cerial top secret we could do some cool ****.
I already have access to a shop for that stuff, but unfortunately the brackets would most likely be made of aluminum since stainless steel or normal steel would be expensive, and aluminum is light weigh and the part could be made with billet aluminum. I'm still doing my research though. But for now I am working on another template that will allow cobalt/g5/hhr owners to build a custom big brake kit much cheaper than what zzp wants. I have brembo calipers from the cadillac xts/camaro ss and will be making a template to create a bracket that uses those and giant 14.5 inch rotors from the '08 to '12 ford gt500 since there is no 4 lug rotor big enough without spending more than 125 dollars (pic is the largest rotor I could find). Then I will put the stock cobalt ss brembo brakes on the rear and new proportioning valve to allow for a full track car to built with ultimate handling on the cheap, without having to spend thousands. But my ultimate goal is to be able to make a list of everything on the Cobalt that can be built or have other parts used from other gm vehicles and give the cobalt a better way of being modified. I am about to buy a salvage ss and start trying to find a way to twin turbo it in a way that it can actually make power since apparently every thread on the subject has people to scared to actually try it for themselves and just say that it's not worth it without making the effort. But back to the original point, yes, I will be making everything public on what I do, and every template and adapter free to make.
I already have access to a shop for that stuff, but unfortunately the brackets would most likely be made of aluminum since stainless steel or normal steel would be expensive, and aluminum is light weigh and the part could be made with billet aluminum. I'm still doing my research though. But for now I am working on another template that will allow cobalt/g5/hhr owners to build a custom big brake kit much cheaper than what zzp wants. I have brembo calipers from the cadillac xts/camaro ss and will be making a template to create a bracket that uses those and giant 14.5 inch rotors from the '08 to '12 ford gt500 since there is no 4 lug rotor big enough without spending more than 125 dollars (pic is the largest rotor I could find). Then I will put the stock cobalt ss brembo brakes on the rear and new proportioning valve to allow for a full track car to built with ultimate handling on the cheap, without having to spend thousands. But my ultimate goal is to be able to make a list of everything on the Cobalt that can be built or have other parts used from other gm vehicles and give the cobalt a better way of being modified. I am about to buy a salvage ss and start trying to find a way to twin turbo it in a way that it can actually make power since apparently every thread on the subject has people to scared to actually try it for themselves and just say that it's not worth it without making the effort. But back to the original point, yes, I will be making everything public on what I do, and every template and adapter free to make.
If that is just a flat part with holes, machining from a billet would be the most expensive route to take. A36 steel would be far cheaper if cut out on a laser table. Stainless steel may be more expensive material cost, mainly harder to machine. However, if made on a laser table I would guess you could make stainless steel parts cheaper than machining aluminum from billet block. If you still desire aluminum I would recommend going with some extruded flat material and have them blown out on a laser table. Machining out of billet is really adding a lot of unnecessary expense for no real benefit over the other methods described above.
Personally I would blow the parts out on a laser table from a sheet of A36 mild steel the appropriate thickness. From a laser table the parts will be clean enough to use straight from the table. You may even get away with plasma table though the edge finish will not be as smooth. Then either galvanize or paint. This all would still be much cheaper than machining aluminum or any material from billet. Also with aluminum you will have the issue of galvanic corrosion to deal with from the aluminum being mated to steel components. In the presence of salt water from the road this could be a dangerous combination.
If that is just a flat part with holes, machining from a billet would be the most expensive route to take. A36 steel would be far cheaper if cut out on a laser table. Stainless steel may be more expensive material cost, mainly harder to machine. However, if made on a laser table I would guess you could make stainless steel parts cheaper than machining aluminum from billet block. If you still desire aluminum I would recommend going with some extruded flat material and have them blown out on a laser table. Machining out of billet is really adding a lot of unnecessary expense for no real benefit over the other methods described above.
Personally I would blow the parts out on a laser table from a sheet of A36 mild steel the appropriate thickness. From a laser table the parts will be clean enough to use straight from the table. You may even get away with plasma table though the edge finish will not be as smooth. Then either galvanize or paint. This all would still be much cheaper than machining aluminum or any material from billet. Also with aluminum you will have the issue of galvanic corrosion to deal with from the aluminum being mated to steel components. In the presence of salt water from the road this could be a dangerous combination.
True. I think I would have to make different types. Like for example, I know I would be fine with aluminum since I live in a place were I don't have to worry about rust underneath my car. But I think a type of steel would be good in Northern States. But personally I would need billet with what I do with my car since I do small autocross events with my local clubs. But you are right, a type of laser or plasma would be pretty good, even a plasma cutter since I have a lot of access to shops around my area, and most have plasma cutters. I most likely would use those for the general shape, but then would drill the holes on an angle grinder and a belt sander for the edges since there are no tight curves on the template since I already have a sander, angle grinder for large grinds, and a drill press. If I do start making plates, I will most likely do a run of ten at a time, with specific types of metal for the type of driving they would get. I probably won't even take orders until like, March or something, because I am already planning to make some for personal friends with hhr's and cobalts, which I will show the process once I have something set in stone. I want to make a process to make plates for those with no fancy tools and just general tools. But thanks for responding, I haven't done much metal working in about a year so I'm taking any criticism while I brush up on my skills and study everything.
True. I think I would have to make different types. Like for example, I know I would be fine with aluminum since I live in a place were I don't have to worry about rust underneath my car. But I think a type of steel would be good in Northern States. But personally I would need billet with what I do with my car since I do small autocross events with my local clubs. But you are right, a type of laser or plasma would be pretty good, even a plasma cutter since I have a lot of access to shops around my area, and most have plasma cutters. I most likely would use those for the general shape, but then would drill the holes on an angle grinder and a belt sander for the edges since there are no tight curves on the template since I already have a sander, angle grinder for large grinds, and a drill press. If I do start making plates, I will most likely do a run of ten at a time, with specific types of metal for the type of driving they would get. I probably won't even take orders until like, March or something, because I am already planning to make some for personal friends with hhr's and cobalts, which I will show the process once I have something set in stone. I want to make a process to make plates for those with no fancy tools and just general tools. But thanks for responding, I haven't done much metal working in about a year so I'm taking any criticism while I brush up on my skills and study everything.
Not meaning to criticize but mainly lend advice as I design and have sheet metal parts fabricated all the time. Specifically I would like to point out that Billet will have no advantage over a flat metal part in this application. Billet just means the part is machined from a billet solid chunk of metal and unfortunately is many times used as a marketing wank term. Where billet sometimes has an advantage is when you are talking about a part machined out of solid material instead of cast to shape. If you cut out the parts on a laser table the parts would still be made from solid material. With this flat part, machined billet really has no advantage (strength or otherwise) and only significant added cost vs. other means of fabrication. Not sure if you are familiar with parts cut out on a laser table but the finish would be suitable right off the table for this particular part. You wouldn't have to grind corners or drill the holes to final geometry. Below is a formed 1/4" sheet metal part fresh off the laser table. Of course your part doesn't have any bends but the pictures show the finish quality of a laser cut.
Last edited by jdbaugh1; Dec 12, 2019 at 08:47 AM.
Not meaning to criticize but mainly lend advice as I design and have sheet metal parts fabricated all the time. Specifically I would like to point out that Billet will have no advantage over a flat metal part in this application. Billet just means the part is machined from a billet solid chunk of metal and unfortunately is many times used as a marketing wank term. Where billet sometimes has an advantage is when you are talking about a part machined out of solid material instead of cast to shape. If you cut out the parts on a laser table the parts would still be made from solid material. With this flat part, machined billet really has no advantage (strength or otherwise) and only significant added cost vs. other means of fabrication. Not sure if you are familiar with parts cut out on a laser table but the finish would be suitable right off the table for this particular part. You wouldn't have to grind corners or drill the holes to final geometry. Below is a formed 1/4" sheet metal part fresh off the laser table. Of course your part doesn't have any bends but the pictures show the finish quality of a laser cut.
Awesome, I'll have to see if there are any laser cutters near me. I mostly have experience in lathes and mills so your help is really appreciated. = D
