AThomas

Due some difficult circumstances my time with my Focus ST might be coming to an end. That would really be unfortunate because with the parts installed and yet to be installed it's a low 11 second car, possible 10's on the stock motor and stock fuel system.


I noticed looking at my options that Cobalt SS Supercharged are surprisingly inexpensive if purchased from a private party. Even if I am able to keep my Focus ST, the times it has been down during it's buildup has shown I need another car.


I love to drag race so the Cobalt wil see some significant time at the strip. I used M&H 17" drag slicks with my Focus ST (best 60 ft is 1.77, stock turbo, stock suspension). I believe these with some 17" wheels will work on the Cobalt but I'm seriously considering moving to drag radials. In my experience if you treat them like slicks you'll be disappointed with the results usually times only slightly better than normal wear rating street tires.


There is a way to get them to hook even, dead hook and not break anything.


But there seems to be a concern about the transmission in these cars. Is there a thread or something I can read about he causes of shift lockout and breakage?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

I havent drag raced my cobalt yet so I wont be much help there, but videos of said 11 second ST are required.

steelmesh

Can you show us the timeslip? Have you dyno'd your ST? I am making 400+ whp with a similar weight RWD car, with 275 width tires...I have a 2.2 60ft and can only manage a 13.0 second 1/4 @ 112 mph.

EDITED: Sorry not a 1.2 60ft, it was a 2.2 60ft, here is the time slip

AThomas

Only video I have is of low 13 second pass with the stock clutch, GTX3071, 22 psi. I have to launch at 6K because the way the stock PCM works, no spark below that point, just a fuel cut (on the 2 step) but above 5999 rpm I get spark and fuel cut which builds boost to about 3-4 psi on the line. So the result is serious wheel spin, even on slicks. The best I have been able to manage like this is 1.90 60 and it ran 12.97@109 mph.

I ran 13.14@103 on the stock turbo, stock intercooler, full interior, stock cat-back, E30 tune and Cobb catted downpipe.

Once I quell the wheel spin, work on the suspension and install the clutch we can turn up the power. I already have the clutch, still thinking about the suspension mods.

AThomas

Which time slips? I have a bunch of them. It's only been on the dyno twice. Once when it was stock, I was trying to see what difference my water-methanol system made improper installation ment it worked only sometimes so I only made 220 hp on an otherwise stock car.

The last time was when I got my first tune after the turbo install and it wasn't fully tuned yet so it made like 270 hp and 300 lbs of torque 91 octane and can of Boostane. Like I said it was early and then I took it to the track made 13 passes and got a couple of updates so it went from running 104-105 mph to 105-106 mph and running mid 13's with 2.0-2.1 60 fts at Fontana.

About two weeks later I got another tune update and took it to Famoso and first pass it ran 13.1@107. I let it cool down for an hour and it ran 12.97@109. On street tires it's run 13.79@111, still only 22 psi which is stock levels, only it doesn't drop to 14-15 psi like the stock turbo does (after maxing out the wastegate preload). My power band is narrow too because the preload on the GTX wasn't set properly. It's fine at the strip where I shift at 6500 rpm but it doesn't really go anywhere if I say drop it in 3rd and stomp on it. Boost kicks in really hard at 5500 rpm and she takes off.

The turbo is not easy to get too for that sort of adjustment unlike the stock turbo which isn't hard once you remove the heat shield. You have to basically remove the turbo so I am going to upgrade to external wastegate for two reasons. (1) the .64 A/R GT25 turbine housing is too tight beyond 450 hp and creates too much backpressure, the external gate which isn't suppose to help with that will in this case. (2) better boost control, especially in 1st and 2nd which becomes more important as power goes up.

When I first got it, I got an E30 email tune, used SCT X4 and M&H slicks. First pass was 14.1@99.6. I kept the TC on which stops the wheels from spinning on the burnout. I didn't figure that out until the last runs of the day and it ran 13.91@99.4

13.0 with 1.2 60 and running 112 mph something doesn't sound right. RWD cars can run 12's @102-103 mph, for that trap speed you should be deep into the 12's, if not high 11's.

chris88z24

A Cobalt SS, Supercharged or Turbo, is an awful drag car and will get expensive quick with the F35 trans. Hope you have a ton of money to throw at it.

Also they are cheap because many of them were driven hard and not taken care of, modded improperly, etc.

The ignition recall destroyed any residual value these cars had.

I'd do everything I could to get the turbo model if I was dead set on a Cobalt SS. Also don't drag race it unless you can afford to replace the trans.

steelmesh

I'm guessing the "it's a low 11 second car, possible 10's on the stock motor and stock fuel system." comment is born by some race team who purpose built a drag racing Focus ST that you're hoping to replicate? Roughly using an armchair calculator, a 3200 lb car (with roll cage say) needs 500 whp to get into the 10's. The ST is direct injected eh? So by stock fuel system you mean the in-tank pump then and not the HPFP? This is pretty insane so trying to confirm this that's all, I'm okay with it all being true =)

chevygirl2006

AThomas

Yes I meant the entire stock fuel system. I am not worried about the HPFP, it provides plenty of fuel if you're not using ethanol. I know ethanol is popular because it's a cheap way to make power and one of the core reasons why output has taken a big jump the last decade or so. Without it, you are left with expensive race fuel or water-methanol which have both fallen out of favor especially with those on a strict budget.

I already spent the money on W/I and will spend more, I don't have a problem with race fuel either, you pay to play just that simple. E85 is not readily available in my area and I have to drive 13 miles out of my way to get it. It is not worth doing until a pump is closer to me, luckily there should be more stations nearby pretty soon but there's no date.

By my calculations you need about 550 hp to run 130 mph which means as long as your in the mid to low 1.7's 60 ft it will run 10.xx. Technically you can run 10's at 125 mph or slower the problem is getting the short times out of a FWD car.

It's not purpose built, it's my daily driver. No need to strip it, I race it full interior, Sync 3, moonroof and all. It hit the scales at 3200 lbs with 1/4 tank of gas and no spare tire, which is how I run it. I weight 170-190 lbs depending on the day and how much I had to eat. If I take out the seats it basically is the same as removing me from the car and only worth about two tenths tops.

AThomas

https://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-...ml#post1032783

chevygirl2006

AThomas

When I have time to install the clutch and suspension, I will.

steelmesh

Not stock though (from their signature):
2015 ST2 Tangerine Scream
514whp/472ft TQ
Engine built by Deadhook Motorsports
DHM Pistons, DHM Rods, DHM BSD, Ported Head
Tuned by Deadhook Motorsports
GTX3076r Turbo
Tial EWG
Stratified Auxillary Fueling
Injen Intake
CPE Intercooler
CPE Hotside Charge Pipe
JBR Coldside Pipe
Tial Q Blowoff Valve
CPE Atmosphere Manifold/DP kit
MBRP Catback exhaust
ST-X Coilovers

chris88z24

Just buy a Focus RS and save yourself the hassle

AThomas

I don't want an RS. My car is 2016 ST2. Why is my ST coming into question?

Mountunes own RS has run 11.88@122 with a much larger turbo than stock.

Nothing wrong with FWD.

AThomas

​​​​​​
Who said that car or mine is stock?

Mine -

ATP GTX3071 Gen 2
CPe/Steeda intercooler
Mountunes hard pipe and silcone hoses
Thermal R&D Turbo back exhaust
AEM water injection
Nitrous Express Dry kit

Stock engine, trans, clutch and suspension. 22-23 psi 330-340hp. Clutch will slip at the power level needed to run 11's, no use in turning it up until then.

steelmesh

I guess I was focused on the stock engine and fuel system comment, but you're right your car is not stock-stock

Are you going for glory with a stock engine and fuel system to meet your goals? Can't blame you for trying, setting a very goal high is how people do amazing things even if they never hit that goal.

Race shop built using race internals tuned by racers using a $900 fuel system upgrade to achieve these glorious numbers on this platform:
514whp/472ft TQ
Engine built by Deadhook Motorsports
DHM Pistons, DHM Rods, DHM BSD, Ported Head
Tuned by Deadhook Motorsports
Stratified Auxillary Fueling

I am pointing out as a friendly acquaintance that you might need more than an aftermarket clutch.

AThomas

Rod knock. What I can see: Pulley, Intake, Cat- Back, tune maybe?

$1200

At the shop. Looking to start work this week. Likely B207 short block, LSJ head. If the intake isn't CARB legal, that will have to change. More to come.

RoelSS

iTrader: (3)

Good Buy - I think I saw that one on Offer Up. Is it the G85 LSD option?

Also, the red Focus looks very familiar, I ran one at Famoso with my ATS.

Best bet is a turbo swap LSJ. Are you looking for a CARB legal setup?

AThomas

Yes One Thousand, Two Hundred Dollars

It has rod knock and no other major damage that I know off. Interior is clean, no rips, I will post a picture of that later. I was in a rush and had other things to do, I had to pay the drivers for delivering the car to the shop.






Only outside damage looks like the fenders on both sides are pushed out, which in turn pushing out the side skirt. I'll check the CarFax to see if anything pops up.

I'll share more tomorrow, when I get it up on the lift.

AThomas

I've run the Focus ST at Famoso several times. The last time August of 2018. Unfortunately it's gone now.

I believe it does have a limited slip differential, I'll try to track down all the information about it in a few days. The guy selling it posted it two different times on Facebook Marketplace.

For now no turbo kit, I have something else in-mind. Since the last owner bought it with rod knock it hasn't been smogged, so it will have to be. Not sure what the intake is I didn't find a label.

Like I said I was in a hurry, I'll dive more into it likely tomorrow.

Monieg5gt

AThomas so what are your plans for this build? The body looks very clean. I'm assuming complete engine rebuild and fix the minor body damage. What about suspension mods and any other performance mods. These cars have endless potential really. I'm currently in the process of restoring my 07 Pontiac G5 GT sedan. Starting with suspension first then getting Firestone firehawk tires, powder coating my stock gt rims. Probably going to do Powell rear sway bar and Powell Spherical Control Arm bushings as well and then eventually do a complete fe5 yyz spring suspension setup. Power wise eventually it will be boosted either turbo or supercharged but I still haven't decided yet on that because I keep changing my mind lol. Either way this will be a fun build for you I'm sure. Good luck with your project and keep us posted on the build.

RoelSS

iTrader: (3)

No labels might indicate it's one of those ebay specials. Post some pics, we might be able to identify it.

Is this you?

AThomas

I have to look at my time slips but I think that's me. I had been running low 13's for a month and I was frustrated with running at California Speedway. I knew from past experience that Famoso is faster by 3 tenths if not more.

First past was 13.xx@10x, then it ran 12.97@109. I knew that was a good pass so I made the first turn out. But the slicks are ran at a very low air pressure. The right wheel rolled over the rim and damaged the sidewall.

Next past was 13.79@111 on street tires the exact way I drove it everyday.

If I can confirm it, thanks for the grab, I never know who's filming me as I never have anybody with me.

AThomas

Short term, get it back on the road and smogged. The car already has an exhaust on it to what extent I don't know, a pulley (not sure what size), injectors likely and a tune likely.

Once it's smog tested, I have some ideas, still fleshing those out. It will be blown/supercharged for at least a little while.

More information -

ZZP cold air intake, ZZP PCM I will assume 1.0 or Stage 2 with 3.1 pulley and black fuel injectors, 42lbs?

100% stock exhaust. It looks like the muffler was changed but then returned to stock.

Possible issues -

Right front tire has more wear than the others. Intake will have to come off for emissions testing and of course the engine itself needs to be addressed.

More to come....

Timing chain, sprockets and guides have all been changed. Found the breather hose in the trunk. Has working intercooler water pump, ZZP PCM turns it on at accessory. Pioneer subwoofer works. Not sure what's going on with the wiring around the driver side headlight. If you wiggle the fuse holder and the headlight flashes.

Course of action is up next.