75 shot
75 shot
Sooo here's the deal.. I'm trying to learn as much as possible about this stuff before I go ahead and purchase my kit. If you can truly help out I'd appreciate it. Please only post if you know what you're saying. I know it's nothing to just **** around with.
Mods:
-GMS2
-2.9
-Injen CAI
-ZZP Header/DP
-GMPP Cat-Back
-NGK 2-Step Colder Spark Plugs
I want to run a wet 75 shot.
Questions:
1. Can I run the shot and just have my friend drop the timing a couple degress (On HP Tuners) and be perfectly fine? Or is a specific tune required/preferred?
2. What exactly is a window switch?
3. Zex or Dynotune Kit or Other and why? (Pros/Cons?)
4. Benefits of the purge kit besides the cool sound and clearing the lines?
5. Benefits of the Bottle Warmer kit?
6. Extra safety tips for running nitrous?
7. Experiences with purchasing used n2o kits? Worth it? Risks? Etc..
IF YOU CAN ANSWER ALL OR ANY OF THESE QUESTIONS PLEASE POST. ONLY SERIOUS RESPONSES PLEASE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Bump.
Mods:
-GMS2
-2.9
-Injen CAI
-ZZP Header/DP
-GMPP Cat-Back
-NGK 2-Step Colder Spark Plugs
I want to run a wet 75 shot.
Questions:
1. Can I run the shot and just have my friend drop the timing a couple degress (On HP Tuners) and be perfectly fine? Or is a specific tune required/preferred?
2. What exactly is a window switch?
3. Zex or Dynotune Kit or Other and why? (Pros/Cons?)
4. Benefits of the purge kit besides the cool sound and clearing the lines?
5. Benefits of the Bottle Warmer kit?
6. Extra safety tips for running nitrous?
7. Experiences with purchasing used n2o kits? Worth it? Risks? Etc..
IF YOU CAN ANSWER ALL OR ANY OF THESE QUESTIONS PLEASE POST. ONLY SERIOUS RESPONSES PLEASE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Bump.
Last edited by ChriSS/SC; Aug 2, 2009 at 05:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
1. Can I run the shot and just have my friend drop the timing a couple degress (On HP Tuners) and be perfectly fine? Or is a specific tune required/preferred? Yes you can just back out timing and be perfectly fine.
2. What exactly is a window switch? I believe its a switch that helps you control when it sprays, and doesnt spray, through the RPM's. But I could be wrong there, I didnt use one.
3. Zex or Dynotune Kit or Other and why? (Pros/Cons?)they are both nice, I just pieced mine together cheaply, and it ran great.
4. Benefits of the purge kit besides the cool sound and clearing the lines? I didnt use a purge, it is a waste of time to me, just spray the car a tad before the race and that will get all the air out of the lines
5. Benefits of the Bottle Warmer kit? I recommend using this, because when nitrous loses pressure, it lowers the shot
6. Extra safety tips for running nitrous? Dont be stupid with it
7. Experiences with purchasing used n2o kits? Worth it? Risks? Etc.. [COLOR="red"]I recommend doing this, cheapest way to get what you want. But if you are scared to buy used then just buy a new kit from Zex, or NOS.[/COLOR
IF YOU CAN ANSWER ALL OR ANY OF THESE QUESTIONS PLEASE POST. ONLY SERIOUS RESPONSES PLEASE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Bump.
2. What exactly is a window switch? I believe its a switch that helps you control when it sprays, and doesnt spray, through the RPM's. But I could be wrong there, I didnt use one.
3. Zex or Dynotune Kit or Other and why? (Pros/Cons?)they are both nice, I just pieced mine together cheaply, and it ran great.
4. Benefits of the purge kit besides the cool sound and clearing the lines? I didnt use a purge, it is a waste of time to me, just spray the car a tad before the race and that will get all the air out of the lines
5. Benefits of the Bottle Warmer kit? I recommend using this, because when nitrous loses pressure, it lowers the shot
6. Extra safety tips for running nitrous? Dont be stupid with it
7. Experiences with purchasing used n2o kits? Worth it? Risks? Etc.. [COLOR="red"]I recommend doing this, cheapest way to get what you want. But if you are scared to buy used then just buy a new kit from Zex, or NOS.[/COLOR
IF YOU CAN ANSWER ALL OR ANY OF THESE QUESTIONS PLEASE POST. ONLY SERIOUS RESPONSES PLEASE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Bump.
Sooo here's the deal.. I'm trying to learn as much as possible about this stuff before I go ahead and purchase my kit. If you can truly help out I'd appreciate it. Please only post if you know what you're saying. I know it's nothing to just **** around with.
Mods:
-GMS2
-2.9 go back to stage 2 would be best
-Injen CAI
-ZZP Header/DP
-GMPP Cat-Back
-NGK 2-Step Colder Spark Plugs
I want to run a wet 75 shot. 50 is plenty or run the stage 2 pulley and hold on!
Questions:
1. Can I run the shot and just have my friend drop the timing a couple degress (On HP Tuners) and be perfectly fine? Or is a specific tune required/preferred? can you? yes, a tune for proper afr and monitor knock would be "safer"
2. What exactly is a window switch? window= 3000rpm-6000rpm get it?
3. Zex or Dynotune Kit or Other and why? (Pros/Cons?) thats up to you I prefer NOS
4. Benefits of the purge kit besides the cool sound and clearing the lines? mainly so you dont have a rich condition when activated by a lack of NOS and to great of fuel causing a backfire/NOS explosion
5. Benefits of the Bottle Warmer kit? smooth constant pressure = consistency which is needed for the tune to be "on"
6. Extra safety tips for running nitrous? hold the **** on that bitch is gonna trq steer like a ***** even on a 50
7. Experiences with purchasing used n2o kits? Worth it? Risks? Etc.. most of the parts (if NOS) are fully rebuildible for cheap, with that said I'd buy used
IF YOU CAN ANSWER ALL OR ANY OF THESE QUESTIONS PLEASE POST. ONLY SERIOUS RESPONSES PLEASE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Bump.
Mods:
-GMS2
-2.9 go back to stage 2 would be best
-Injen CAI
-ZZP Header/DP
-GMPP Cat-Back
-NGK 2-Step Colder Spark Plugs
I want to run a wet 75 shot. 50 is plenty or run the stage 2 pulley and hold on!
Questions:
1. Can I run the shot and just have my friend drop the timing a couple degress (On HP Tuners) and be perfectly fine? Or is a specific tune required/preferred? can you? yes, a tune for proper afr and monitor knock would be "safer"
2. What exactly is a window switch? window= 3000rpm-6000rpm get it?
3. Zex or Dynotune Kit or Other and why? (Pros/Cons?) thats up to you I prefer NOS
4. Benefits of the purge kit besides the cool sound and clearing the lines? mainly so you dont have a rich condition when activated by a lack of NOS and to great of fuel causing a backfire/NOS explosion
5. Benefits of the Bottle Warmer kit? smooth constant pressure = consistency which is needed for the tune to be "on"
6. Extra safety tips for running nitrous? hold the **** on that bitch is gonna trq steer like a ***** even on a 50
7. Experiences with purchasing used n2o kits? Worth it? Risks? Etc.. most of the parts (if NOS) are fully rebuildible for cheap, with that said I'd buy used
IF YOU CAN ANSWER ALL OR ANY OF THESE QUESTIONS PLEASE POST. ONLY SERIOUS RESPONSES PLEASE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Bump.
no prob...
Thanks guys. So Hungryhip.. Why go back to the stage 2 pulley and not keep the 2.9? What happens if I run n2o on the 2.9? Just curious..
And a questions for either of you.. Or both.. I want to have a switch in my car where if the switch is off.. The car runs as if no nitrous was ever installed.. And when on.. The n2o engages between a certain range (i.e. 3000-6000rpms) only at WOT. Is that a window switch? And if so.. That makes it perfectly safe as long as my timing is dropped a couple degrees and my bottle is at the right pressure, correct? I want no risks with the 75.. Or at least as little as possible.
Hungryhip.. Money wise.. How much will I be looking at in terms of paying for a wet 75 shot tune? And is it worth it to have my buddy with HPT just lower the timing instead? That's a big issue/concern for me..
And a questions for either of you.. Or both.. I want to have a switch in my car where if the switch is off.. The car runs as if no nitrous was ever installed.. And when on.. The n2o engages between a certain range (i.e. 3000-6000rpms) only at WOT. Is that a window switch? And if so.. That makes it perfectly safe as long as my timing is dropped a couple degrees and my bottle is at the right pressure, correct? I want no risks with the 75.. Or at least as little as possible.
Hungryhip.. Money wise.. How much will I be looking at in terms of paying for a wet 75 shot tune? And is it worth it to have my buddy with HPT just lower the timing instead? That's a big issue/concern for me..
I am by all meanss no expert on the subject but I have some experience with the stuff,
I like to share my experience because I learn from others, here's what I have to offer.
Your question# 2, a window switch is a circuit that turns you system on and off, creating
a window off safe operation. Usually on at about 3000RPM and off at about 250 to 500
RPM before redline, at "wide open throttle" only. #3, Dynotune is quality stuff , I have some components ,I'm very happy with, pro's and con's come down to personal choice,
i.e Ford , Chevy , Mopar. #4, A purge kit "bleeds the air" out of your lines before use and then you use it to bleed the N2O out of you lines after use. Before use your lines are just full of air, when you open your bottle you create gaps of pressurized gas and low pressure
air, creating gaps in N2O delivery, think of a empty long garden hose turned on for the first time, all that spitting and sputtering. After use you don't want to leave your system
pressurized, it is hard on the lines , seals and solenoids. There is an another danger that if you have a leak somewhere that N2O could be in the intake tract upon start up or when you don't want N2O, ever heard of nitrous back fire? #5, Bottle WARMER , is best for cold weather performance or low bottle pressure situations. There is a lot of science invovled in liquified gases to keep it as simple as I know how to explain, just remember low temp
low pressure high temp high pressure, an ideal operating temp is about 900psi. Your bottle
pressure is very important to performance.#6,Best I can say is WIDE OPEN THROTTLE ONLY be sure that part of you system works properly, use of some sort of HOBBS (fuel pressure low pressure cut off), good set of plugs for every use. I hope this helps you in you experince, TB
I like to share my experience because I learn from others, here's what I have to offer.
Your question# 2, a window switch is a circuit that turns you system on and off, creating
a window off safe operation. Usually on at about 3000RPM and off at about 250 to 500
RPM before redline, at "wide open throttle" only. #3, Dynotune is quality stuff , I have some components ,I'm very happy with, pro's and con's come down to personal choice,
i.e Ford , Chevy , Mopar. #4, A purge kit "bleeds the air" out of your lines before use and then you use it to bleed the N2O out of you lines after use. Before use your lines are just full of air, when you open your bottle you create gaps of pressurized gas and low pressure
air, creating gaps in N2O delivery, think of a empty long garden hose turned on for the first time, all that spitting and sputtering. After use you don't want to leave your system
pressurized, it is hard on the lines , seals and solenoids. There is an another danger that if you have a leak somewhere that N2O could be in the intake tract upon start up or when you don't want N2O, ever heard of nitrous back fire? #5, Bottle WARMER , is best for cold weather performance or low bottle pressure situations. There is a lot of science invovled in liquified gases to keep it as simple as I know how to explain, just remember low temp
low pressure high temp high pressure, an ideal operating temp is about 900psi. Your bottle
pressure is very important to performance.#6,Best I can say is WIDE OPEN THROTTLE ONLY be sure that part of you system works properly, use of some sort of HOBBS (fuel pressure low pressure cut off), good set of plugs for every use. I hope this helps you in you experince, TB
Thanks guys. So Hungryhip.. Why go back to the stage 2 pulley and not keep the 2.9? What happens if I run n2o on the 2.9? Just curious..
And a questions for either of you.. Or both.. I want to have a switch in my car where if the switch is off.. The car runs as if no nitrous was ever installed.. And when on.. The n2o engages between a certain range (i.e. 3000-6000rpms) only at WOT. Is that a window switch? And if so.. That makes it perfectly safe as long as my timing is dropped a couple degrees and my bottle is at the right pressure, correct? I want no risks with the 75.. Or at least as little as possible.
Hungryhip.. Money wise.. How much will I be looking at in terms of paying for a wet 75 shot tune? And is it worth it to have my buddy with HPT just lower the timing instead? That's a big issue/concern for me..
And a questions for either of you.. Or both.. I want to have a switch in my car where if the switch is off.. The car runs as if no nitrous was ever installed.. And when on.. The n2o engages between a certain range (i.e. 3000-6000rpms) only at WOT. Is that a window switch? And if so.. That makes it perfectly safe as long as my timing is dropped a couple degrees and my bottle is at the right pressure, correct? I want no risks with the 75.. Or at least as little as possible.
Hungryhip.. Money wise.. How much will I be looking at in terms of paying for a wet 75 shot tune? And is it worth it to have my buddy with HPT just lower the timing instead? That's a big issue/concern for me..
someone else might charge as much as 500.00
the going rate for a tune is 250.00 and that is full tune...
i say go back to stage 2 pulley cause when nos is introduced to a fi engine it sometimes is considered as double the shot... meaning a 50 acts like 100... on the cobalt this is not the case, i know from experience a 50 acts like a 60-65 on the hp side and 75 on the trq... I think you would be safer and make more power on a stock pulley+tune+50 shot, the NOS is creating ice cool intake air, and the nos releasing O2 under combustion will be your source for cyl pressure, take the load off the engine by going to bigger pulley and let the nos do the work... the smaller the s/c pulley the more boost but the more power it takes to spin the sc... you reach a point were your not gaining hp by adding boost... im sorry but i cant keep going on and on dont take this the wrong way but i think you need to do some research
this is why "50" shot is plenty...
Sooo here's the deal.. I'm trying to learn as much as possible about this stuff before I go ahead and purchase my kit. If you can truly help out I'd appreciate it. Please only post if you know what you're saying. I know it's nothing to just **** around with.
Mods:
-GMS2
-2.9
-Injen CAI
-ZZP Header/DP
-GMPP Cat-Back
-NGK 2-Step Colder Spark Plugs
I want to run a wet 75 shot.
Questions:
1. Can I run the shot and just have my friend drop the timing a couple degress (On HP Tuners) and be perfectly fine? Or is a specific tune required/preferred?
2. What exactly is a window switch?
3. Zex or Dynotune Kit or Other and why? (Pros/Cons?)
4. Benefits of the purge kit besides the cool sound and clearing the lines?
5. Benefits of the Bottle Warmer kit?
6. Extra safety tips for running nitrous?
7. Experiences with purchasing used n2o kits? Worth it? Risks? Etc..
IF YOU CAN ANSWER ALL OR ANY OF THESE QUESTIONS PLEASE POST. ONLY SERIOUS RESPONSES PLEASE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Bump.
Mods:
-GMS2
-2.9
-Injen CAI
-ZZP Header/DP
-GMPP Cat-Back
-NGK 2-Step Colder Spark Plugs
I want to run a wet 75 shot.
Questions:
1. Can I run the shot and just have my friend drop the timing a couple degress (On HP Tuners) and be perfectly fine? Or is a specific tune required/preferred?
2. What exactly is a window switch?
3. Zex or Dynotune Kit or Other and why? (Pros/Cons?)
4. Benefits of the purge kit besides the cool sound and clearing the lines?
5. Benefits of the Bottle Warmer kit?
6. Extra safety tips for running nitrous?
7. Experiences with purchasing used n2o kits? Worth it? Risks? Etc..
IF YOU CAN ANSWER ALL OR ANY OF THESE QUESTIONS PLEASE POST. ONLY SERIOUS RESPONSES PLEASE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Bump.
2. you wouldn't want to run a window switch you would want to run a button because in case you spin you might want to let off and it is more safer.
3. neither. get nos sniper kit on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-S...Q5fAccessories
4. sort of a point but u can spray in one gear to clear the lines out so that's basically purging the line.
5. BIG benefit! it gives you a lot more torque and a little bit of whp. spraying at 700psi or 800psi compared to 950 or 1,000 is a huge difference.
6. GET A WIDEBAND! buy the nos sniper kit on ebay for $289.95 and your good to go. has everything you need to run the kit and comes with everything all fitted and ready for your cobalt. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-S...Q5fAccessories
7. not worth it to buy used just buy the brand new nos sniper kit on ebay. it's already pretty inexpensive. nos sniper kit is made by holley. very well known name brand and great company!
i sprayed a 45 wet shot on my car for about a year on gm stage 2 + 2.80 pulley and now run a 75shot w/ 60lb injectors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntj0WX6Em_I
anything else i can help you with an talk to you in pm's and once you get ready i can give you all the advice i know over the phone or through aim or pm's.
*when all else fails i would take hungryhip-ccp's advice. him and i think a like i believe with almost everything he has said in here. i have also had thoughts about going back to a larger pulley and gm stage 2 tune but i know i have track proof that i have gained 5mph in the 1/8 with upping my shot to 75 and adding the header + dp w/cat and started tuning myself.
Last edited by StockSS; Aug 4, 2009 at 01:47 AM.
the purge is a cheap option i think should not be over looked... (i like the sniper kit as well just buy purge separate) i too ran without one like most everyone, but you sound like you want some assurance you wont blow... this will help
your set-up looked a bit faster than my 3.0 42's and 50shot with full header back...
its just hes asking during the summer and it gets hot out here it has been 90+ for a mon or so and isnt going down soon. so to help him out with more power and less heat i was recommending doing a bigger pulley... but in the winter as long as idc isnt an issue in the winter the 2.9-2.8 should be fine...
1. yes, drop to like 15-16 and you should also should get rid of 2step colder and put ngkbkr7 1step colder plugs.
2. you wouldn't want to run a window switch you would want to run a button because in case you spin you might want to let off and it is more safer.
3. neither. get nos sniper kit on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-S...Q5fAccessories
4. sort of a point but u can spray in one gear to clear the lines out so that's basically purging the line.
5. BIG benefit! it gives you a lot more torque and a little bit of whp. spraying at 700psi or 800psi compared to 950 or 1,000 is a huge difference.
6. GET A WIDEBAND! buy the nos sniper kit on ebay for $289.95 and your good to go. has everything you need to run the kit and comes with everything all fitted and ready for your cobalt. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-S...Q5fAccessories
7. not worth it to buy used just buy the brand new nos sniper kit on ebay. it's already pretty inexpensive. nos sniper kit is made by holley. very well known name brand and great company!
i sprayed a 45 wet shot on my car for about a year on gm stage 2 + 2.80 pulley and now run a 75shot w/ 60lb injectors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BmfFiqyIMc
anything else i can help you with an talk to you in pm's and once you get ready i can give you all the advice i know over the phone or through aim or pm's.
*when all else fails i would take hungryhip-ccp's advice. him and i think a like i believe with almost everything he has said in here. i have also had thoughts about going back to a larger pulley and gm stage 2 tune but i know i have track proof that i have gained 5mph in the 1/8 with upping my shot to 75 and adding the header + dp w/cat and started tuning myself.
2. you wouldn't want to run a window switch you would want to run a button because in case you spin you might want to let off and it is more safer.
3. neither. get nos sniper kit on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-S...Q5fAccessories
4. sort of a point but u can spray in one gear to clear the lines out so that's basically purging the line.
5. BIG benefit! it gives you a lot more torque and a little bit of whp. spraying at 700psi or 800psi compared to 950 or 1,000 is a huge difference.
6. GET A WIDEBAND! buy the nos sniper kit on ebay for $289.95 and your good to go. has everything you need to run the kit and comes with everything all fitted and ready for your cobalt. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-S...Q5fAccessories
7. not worth it to buy used just buy the brand new nos sniper kit on ebay. it's already pretty inexpensive. nos sniper kit is made by holley. very well known name brand and great company!
i sprayed a 45 wet shot on my car for about a year on gm stage 2 + 2.80 pulley and now run a 75shot w/ 60lb injectors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8BmfFiqyIMc
anything else i can help you with an talk to you in pm's and once you get ready i can give you all the advice i know over the phone or through aim or pm's.
*when all else fails i would take hungryhip-ccp's advice. him and i think a like i believe with almost everything he has said in here. i have also had thoughts about going back to a larger pulley and gm stage 2 tune but i know i have track proof that i have gained 5mph in the 1/8 with upping my shot to 75 and adding the header + dp w/cat and started tuning myself.
your set-up looked a bit faster than my 3.0 42's and 50shot with full header back...
its just hes asking during the summer and it gets hot out here it has been 90+ for a mon or so and isnt going down soon. so to help him out with more power and less heat i was recommending doing a bigger pulley... but in the winter as long as idc isnt an issue in the winter the 2.9-2.8 should be fine...
Last edited by hungryhip-ccp; Aug 2, 2009 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thanks for the help guys. Really. Hungry.. The reason I ask about this stuff is to learn off of peoples experience as opposed to just whats on paper.
Since you both agree that the Sniper kit is good.. Would you just go with that kit.. And add a window switch, bottle warmer, AND purge kit? Orrr...? Cuz that's a lot more money for all that.. So a big factor..
Because from what I see.. None of that included in that kit.. So how would it work? Just basically an on and off switch and at WOT?
First off.. Thanks! For all of that info..
2nd.. So you're saying you purge before.. And after?
3rd.. The stuff I put in bold.. Elaborate please?
Since you both agree that the Sniper kit is good.. Would you just go with that kit.. And add a window switch, bottle warmer, AND purge kit? Orrr...? Cuz that's a lot more money for all that.. So a big factor..
Because from what I see.. None of that included in that kit.. So how would it work? Just basically an on and off switch and at WOT?
I am by all meanss no expert on the subject but I have some experience with the stuff,
I like to share my experience because I learn from others, here's what I have to offer.
Your question# 2, a window switch is a circuit that turns you system on and off, creating
a window off safe operation. Usually on at about 3000RPM and off at about 250 to 500
RPM before redline, at "wide open throttle" only. #3, Dynotune is quality stuff , I have some components ,I'm very happy with, pro's and con's come down to personal choice,
i.e Ford , Chevy , Mopar. #4, A purge kit "bleeds the air" out of your lines before use and then you use it to bleed the N2O out of you lines after use. Before use your lines are just full of air, when you open your bottle you create gaps of pressurized gas and low pressure
air, creating gaps in N2O delivery, think of a empty long garden hose turned on for the first time, all that spitting and sputtering. After use you don't want to leave your system
pressurized, it is hard on the lines , seals and solenoids. There is an another danger that if you have a leak somewhere that N2O could be in the intake tract upon start up or when you don't want N2O, ever heard of nitrous back fire? #5, Bottle WARMER , is best for cold weather performance or low bottle pressure situations. There is a lot of science invovled in liquified gases to keep it as simple as I know how to explain, just remember low temp
low pressure high temp high pressure, an ideal operating temp is about 900psi. Your bottle
pressure is very important to performance.#6,Best I can say is WIDE OPEN THROTTLE ONLY be sure that part of you system works properly, use of some sort of HOBBS (fuel pressure low pressure cut off), good set of plugs for every use. I hope this helps you in you experince, TB
I like to share my experience because I learn from others, here's what I have to offer.
Your question# 2, a window switch is a circuit that turns you system on and off, creating
a window off safe operation. Usually on at about 3000RPM and off at about 250 to 500
RPM before redline, at "wide open throttle" only. #3, Dynotune is quality stuff , I have some components ,I'm very happy with, pro's and con's come down to personal choice,
i.e Ford , Chevy , Mopar. #4, A purge kit "bleeds the air" out of your lines before use and then you use it to bleed the N2O out of you lines after use. Before use your lines are just full of air, when you open your bottle you create gaps of pressurized gas and low pressure
air, creating gaps in N2O delivery, think of a empty long garden hose turned on for the first time, all that spitting and sputtering. After use you don't want to leave your system
pressurized, it is hard on the lines , seals and solenoids. There is an another danger that if you have a leak somewhere that N2O could be in the intake tract upon start up or when you don't want N2O, ever heard of nitrous back fire? #5, Bottle WARMER , is best for cold weather performance or low bottle pressure situations. There is a lot of science invovled in liquified gases to keep it as simple as I know how to explain, just remember low temp
low pressure high temp high pressure, an ideal operating temp is about 900psi. Your bottle
pressure is very important to performance.#6,Best I can say is WIDE OPEN THROTTLE ONLY be sure that part of you system works properly, use of some sort of HOBBS (fuel pressure low pressure cut off), good set of plugs for every use. I hope this helps you in you experince, TB
2nd.. So you're saying you purge before.. And after?
3rd.. The stuff I put in bold.. Elaborate please?
Last edited by ChriSS/SC; Aug 3, 2009 at 04:31 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I would stay at 14* with the stage 2 pulley 12 with 2.9 that's with a 50 shot
Plus be prepared for that clutch to finish dying
Plus be prepared for that clutch to finish dying
Last edited by SlowBalt_06; Aug 3, 2009 at 06:00 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
also the nos sniper kit comes with a wot switch but it doesn't really work on our cars. you want to have a button to push so in case you spin the wheels you can let off and then get back on. if you spin the wheels and then get grip and your still spraying like a wot switch you can grenade your engine real quick.
if u go from a dig and hit 2nd it will not hold. depends on how messed up ur clutch is. when i was on the 45shot on gm stg2 + 2.80 if i shifted to 3rd it would slip or sometimes in 2nd from a roll. with out the spray it would be fine though. if ur planning on going to the track with it just buy the 6 puck clutch i sent you in a pm. if not i also have a used spec stg2+ clutch. you can use everything and then just buy a spec 3 or 4 clutch not the + and put it on the clutch cause everything else is good and brand new. teh spec stg2+ clutch slipped on me and the disc might be ruined. well with slicks + the 75 shot at the track it didnt hold.
if u go from a dig and hit 2nd it will not hold. depends on how messed up ur clutch is. when i was on the 45shot on gm stg2 + 2.80 if i shifted to 3rd it would slip or sometimes in 2nd from a roll. with out the spray it would be fine though. if ur planning on going to the track with it just buy the 6 puck clutch i sent you in a pm. if not i also have a used spec stg2+ clutch. you can use everything and then just buy a spec 3 or 4 clutch not the + and put it on the clutch cause everything else is good and brand new. teh spec stg2+ clutch slipped on me and the disc might be ruined. well with slicks + the 75 shot at the track it didnt hold.
Last edited by StockSS; Aug 4, 2009 at 12:23 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
also damien used 75 or 50 shot on stock clutch. and so did blazzin.
o and area has the stock clutch on 340whp but nice try being an ass
Thanks for the help guys. Really. Hungry.. The reason I ask about this stuff is to learn off of peoples experience as opposed to just whats on paper.
Since you both agree that the Sniper kit is good.. Would you just go with that kit.. And add a window switch, bottle warmer, AND purge kit? Orrr...? Cuz that's a lot more money for all that.. So a big factor..
Because from what I see.. None of that included in that kit.. So how would it work? Just basically an on and off switch and at WOT?
First off.. Thanks! For all of that info..
2nd.. So you're saying you purge before.. And after?
3rd.. The stuff I put in bold.. Elaborate please?
Since you both agree that the Sniper kit is good.. Would you just go with that kit.. And add a window switch, bottle warmer, AND purge kit? Orrr...? Cuz that's a lot more money for all that.. So a big factor..
Because from what I see.. None of that included in that kit.. So how would it work? Just basically an on and off switch and at WOT?
First off.. Thanks! For all of that info..
2nd.. So you're saying you purge before.. And after?
3rd.. The stuff I put in bold.. Elaborate please?
dose of N2O. Then after your doing your runs and you have closed the bottle this de-pressurizes the lines and takes a load off of the solenoids . This is of coarse is just on the
N2O side on the fuel side is not so important, your only dealing with 30 or 40 p.s.i compared to 800 to 1000 p.s.i..
The HOBBS is a circuit that goes on your fuel side. If you fuel pressure drops below a preset it will shut down the nitrous system helping to prevent you from leaning out.
Lean conditions are very bad. Most set ups for mild use may not need this, it's a very nice
bit of insurance if the car you plan to spray is a daily driver.
I use the Sniper Kit in two stages of 35hp each, take a look at my images to see the set up.
zach06cobaltsc used the clutch with no probs with 2.8, 60s, 50shot with full bolt ons......same power chris will be pushing....and ur the one tryin to sell him a used clutch that slipped
also damien used 75 or 50 shot on stock clutch. and so did blazzin.
o and area has the stock clutch on 340whp but nice try being an ass
also damien used 75 or 50 shot on stock clutch. and so did blazzin.
o and area has the stock clutch on 340whp but nice try being an ass
also i know on a mustang dyno i make 320whp/340torque. i have a 6puck clutch in my car now and that works. i use hooser qtp (dot) tires at the track and diging it out with stock wheels or them the stock clutch will not hold. i had stock clutch in my car and it worked alright until i upped my shot. and forget about nitrous going from a dig with hooser qtp's.
i am not trying to be a dick. i posted up my video of me doing a pull on my old tune with 2 friends in the car. i'll repost once i finish up tuning myself or should is say ralliartist is really tuning me and giving me all my guidance.
you can tell in the video i posted up my car pulls pretty nice and once i am finishing tuning and go out for a spin by myself with just the video camera you will see exactly what i mean.
all my advice i give is from my past experiences or others. i can speak for dan aka damien aka ssdan and myself.


