bottle pressure
#3
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Agreed. We target 900-950 also. Nitrous pressure is critical to correct AFR and power gain. Too low and the car will run too rich...too high and you risk being dangerously lean.
In the cold weather, I'd recommend you shoot for 850-900 just to be safe. Nitrous use in cold temperatures is best done with a little less nitrous or a little more enrichment fuel...it's easier to go lean and/or spark knock when it's cold out.
Be careful, do your research so you don't make any avoidable mistakes, and enjoy!
In the cold weather, I'd recommend you shoot for 850-900 just to be safe. Nitrous use in cold temperatures is best done with a little less nitrous or a little more enrichment fuel...it's easier to go lean and/or spark knock when it's cold out.
Be careful, do your research so you don't make any avoidable mistakes, and enjoy!
#4
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Agreed. We target 900-950 also. Nitrous pressure is critical to correct AFR and power gain. Too low and the car will run too rich...too high and you risk being dangerously lean.
In the cold weather, I'd recommend you shoot for 850-900 just to be safe. Nitrous use in cold temperatures is best done with a little less nitrous or a little more enrichment fuel...it's easier to go lean and/or spark knock when it's cold out.
Be careful, do your research so you don't make any avoidable mistakes, and enjoy!
In the cold weather, I'd recommend you shoot for 850-900 just to be safe. Nitrous use in cold temperatures is best done with a little less nitrous or a little more enrichment fuel...it's easier to go lean and/or spark knock when it's cold out.
Be careful, do your research so you don't make any avoidable mistakes, and enjoy!
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#6
950? weak! go for 1100
i should probably take that temperature change into account, I normally run the same pressure and jets all year around although on a stock tune I probably have more room to play around with...
i should probably take that temperature change into account, I normally run the same pressure and jets all year around although on a stock tune I probably have more room to play around with...
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Hehe, it's all relative, really...with less pressure, one can achieve the same power as higher pressure by using a larger nitrous jet. They key is a well-tuned package that you stick with...if it's tuned for 1050, stick with that. If it's tuned for 950, stay at 950.
My preference for 900-950 comes from temperature stability...as the weather cools, it's much easier to maintain this pressure. It suits our climate, as well as the fact that I typically spray only at the track, where I have great control over bottle temperature and the attendant pressure results.
Now, were I in a hot climate, and running more on the street where the bottle spends long periods in a car baked by the sun and driving the pressure up from heat, I might favor higher pressures!
My preference for 900-950 comes from temperature stability...as the weather cools, it's much easier to maintain this pressure. It suits our climate, as well as the fact that I typically spray only at the track, where I have great control over bottle temperature and the attendant pressure results.
Now, were I in a hot climate, and running more on the street where the bottle spends long periods in a car baked by the sun and driving the pressure up from heat, I might favor higher pressures!
Last edited by Hahn RaceCraft; 12-05-2008 at 09:14 AM. Reason: typos SUCK
#10
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I got a bottle filled when it was 110*F out and my bottle pressure was off the guage (over 2k psi). I ended up putting the bottle in the fridge to cool it down. I tried to fire the nitrous solenoid just to see what it was like (engine off) and it was so much pressure the solenoid wouldn't operate.
I just for 950 to 1050 psi. Remember the cobalt fuel pressure is 15PSI than what most guides will assume so get a jet calculator that takes fuel PSI into account too.
I just for 950 to 1050 psi. Remember the cobalt fuel pressure is 15PSI than what most guides will assume so get a jet calculator that takes fuel PSI into account too.
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Good plan! Much higher than that and it might have popped open the safety release. Then you have one helluva bunch of noise and smelly, wasted juice!
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#14
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Medical grade nitrous isn't the same as the crap they sell at fill stations. And it's alot more expensive too.
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I may be off here, but as my post mentioned to 'smelly, wasted juice', I am of the impression you were referring to that phrase...
If yes, I'd just add that when the safety release blows off, it's highly offensive, as the sufur dioxide in typical N20 sold for perfomance use is amazingly irritiating. If the car does not have a blow-down tube to route this outside of the cabin, it will force one to evacuate the vehicle immediately.
If no, never mind
If yes, I'd just add that when the safety release blows off, it's highly offensive, as the sufur dioxide in typical N20 sold for perfomance use is amazingly irritiating. If the car does not have a blow-down tube to route this outside of the cabin, it will force one to evacuate the vehicle immediately.
If no, never mind
#17
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I guess I read those 4 bottles I put through my car in October alone on the internet too...
Perhaps the sulfur content differs between suppliers.
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